Substitute For Pelikan Blue Ink?

[antonio ilmonaco]

Hi all,

 

For a few years now I've been using Pelikan Blue ink in the Vacumatic 51 I carry around everyday.

I write a lot at work and typically refill the pen completely once a week.

I love the pen and the ink, but after typically 3 years, the rubber diaphragm deteriorates to a gooey substance and leaks.

I suppose there is a chemical interaction between the ink and the rubber.

I wonder if some of you could recommend a safer substitute for the Pelikan ink? I hav tried Parker/Waterman but the color is dull.

 

Thanks,

Ant1

[Erik Dalton]

I only use Waterman's Serenity blue in my Vacs. No sac issues at all.

The Plyglass sacs are a little more forgiving of the inks it will stand up to, My areo pens get either Waterman's Serenity Blue or Diamine Oxford Blue.

 

I haven't put it in my P51's yet, but i have a bottle of the new Aurora Blue Black which i have in my Montblanc's and it is a really well behaved ink. We've always talked here, of Aurora Blue and Black as being among the "Safe inks". When i get done testing it in my other pens, and If it keeps performing, I may give this new ink a try int my P-51 areos. Then, maybe my vacs.

 

There is another new(for me) ink that I'm really impressed with. Montblanc JFK is a nicely behaved ink that cleans up with water as well as Waterman Serenity Blue. Not sure about Montblanc inks in Sacs though. Anyone else have any experience with these?.

[Scribblesoften]

Namiki/Pilot Blue is a bit less saturated but has been pen safe for me. This is the first I have heard of Pelikan Blue being corrosive.

[dcwaites]

I believe Richard Binder (http://www.richardspens.com/?page=ref/care/inks.htm ) recommends Diamine along with Waterman as safe inks.

 

Even safer would be my blend Faux Penman Sapphire #9, given that it is more than half water.

[The Good Captain]

I reckon that Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue is one of the safest inks on the planet. I suggest you might consider looking at your pen and it's construction.

[Freddy]

I have been usin' Pelikan 4001 Blue..Royal Blue and Blue-Black ink..

without any issues..whatsoever..in my Parker Vacumatic pens for many years...

I do all my own restoration re Vacumatics...Who does your restoration work and what is the source of diaphragms?

What you describe should not be happening..Yet..it is..something else is going on. Interesting..........

 

Fred

[Erik Dalton]

I have been usin' Pelikan 4001 Blue..Royal Blue and Blue-Black ink..

without any issues..whatsoever..in my Parker Vacumatic pens for many years...

I do all my own restoration re Vacumatics...Who does your restoration work and what is the source of diaphragms?

What you describe should not be happening..Yet..it is..something else is going on. Interesting..........

 

Fred

Well said. It's not ways the ink. Not all Sacs are created equal. Not all restoration people are either.

Just curious what does the guy who replaces these Sacs for you say when you return after three years?

[ac12]

From looking at the Vac link on your post, it appears that you did the diaphram replacement yourself.

 

Pelikan ink is considered a SAFE ink. I have it in my Vacumatic right now. Granted not in use for 3+ years.

 

re Parker blue ink.

The dull/faded/washed out color of the blue Parker ink is why I used BLACK Parker ink in college. The Parker blue ink IS a light blue, that needs a WET pen to be darker. If you want to use Parker ink, I suggest either blue-black or black.

 

re Waterman blue

Waterman blue is NOT as light as Parker blue. In fact it is quite a bit darker. The only way that I can think of for Waterman blue to be a dull/faded color is out of a DRY pen.

 

Sheaffer ink is another safe ink. Though the Sheaffer blue is as light as the Parker blue, so you won't get much there.

 

How are you cleaning the pen? If you are using a chemical cleaner, it is possible that the chemical in the cleaner is reacting and attacking the rubber diaphram.

 

The only other variable that I can think of is, that you may have a bad batch of diaphrams.

 

[antonio ilmonaco]

Hi

 

Thanks for the replies,

I do my own maintenance. I have suspected the talcum powder at one point but hav ruled it out now.

I have read here that Pelikan 4001 is supposedly a safe ink. On the other hand, I wonder how many people use a Vac with this ink as much as I do (the pen is in my shirt pocket 300+ days/year and gets refilled once a week). Maybe the chemical failure is thermally activated by temperature?

I don't flush the pen at all since I use the same ink all the time.

 

What I need is a silicone diaphragm but there are none to be found

 

Ant1

[ParkerDuofold]

Hi

 

Thanks for the replies,

I do my own maintenance. I have suspected the talcum powder at one point but hav ruled it out now.

I have read here that Pelikan 4001 is supposedly a safe ink. On the other hand, I wonder how many people use a Vac with this ink as much as I do (the pen is in my shirt pocket 300+ days/year and gets refilled once a week). Maybe the chemical failure is thermally activated by temperature?

I don't flush the pen at all since I use the same ink all the time.

 

What I need is a silicone diaphragm but there are none to be found

 

Ant1

Hi Antonio... from one Anthony to another, let me give my two cents.

 

I would echo the words above that recommend looking for a new sac supplier; it sounds to me like he's selling inferior grade sacs. I'm not really into vintage pen repair; so I cannot recommended a good sac supplier, but I'm positive others here can.

 

As far as "safe inks" go, I would concur that Pelikan, Waterman, etc., are safe... but if you want ULTRA SAFE... check out the inks from J. Herbin... they only use natural dyes, they are all pH neutral and they've been at it for almost 350 years! You can't get much safer than that!

 

- Anthony

[TSherbs]

So,do you never clean the pen? A pattern of corroding sacs should,I think,suggest that you might consider more routine cleaning. Whatever ink you use.

Edited May 17, 2017 by TSherbs

[ac12]

Talcum powder is NOT the right thing to use. You need pure TALC. Some/many talcum powders for use on the body, have oils or other "stuff" in them to make them have a pleasant smell. This may be your problem.

[Freddy]

Hi

 

Thanks for the replies,

I do my own maintenance. I have suspected the talcum powder at one point but hav ruled it out now.

I have read here that Pelikan 4001 is supposedly a safe ink. On the other hand, I wonder how many people use a Vac with this ink as much as I do (the pen is in my shirt pocket 300+ days/year and gets refilled once a week). Maybe the chemical failure is thermally activated by temperature?

I don't flush the pen at all since I use the same ink all the time.

 

What I need is a silicone diaphragm but there are none to be found

 

Ant1

 

For your consideration: I only use Pure Talc..when cementing the plunger to spring

I use PC Super Epoxy {two part} and only the pellet that is installed in new diaphragm.

Incidentally..I also do my own restorations..and always usin' a Vacumatic year round.

Usually every tenth refill give a quick rinse..without incident.

 

Please let us know when you find a solution.

Thanks.

 

Fred

[antonio ilmonaco]

Hi

 

Pure talc is what I use now but didn't prevent the diaphragms from failing.

My previous batch of diaphragms was from Cathedral Pens, the current one is from the Pendragons. Same result.

My ink is bought in a brick and mortar shop, two different sources, same result as well.

I'm puzzled!

 

Ant1

[ParkerDuofold]

Hi

 

Pure talc is what I use now but didn't prevent the diaphragms from failing.

My previous batch of diaphragms was from Cathedral Pens, the current one is from the Pendragons. Same result.

My ink is bought in a brick and mortar shop, two different sources, same result as well.

I'm puzzled!

 

Ant1

Hi Ant1,

 

You've got me puzzled, too ... of course, that's not hard to do ... but just for laughs, try using an ink from the ORIGINAL LINE of J. Herbin... not any of those glittery anniversary inks or perfumed inks, but one or two from their standard series and see what happens.

 

They are supposed to be pH neutral, (which means they're like water; whereas both Pelikan and Waterman are acidic inks with relatively low pH readings), and use only natural dyes... I don't know of any ink that's "safer" than that.

 

- Anthony

 

 

Bonjour Ant1,

 

Vous m'avez également perplexe ... bien sûr, ce n'est pas difficile à faire ... mais juste pour rire, essayez d'utiliser une encre de ORIGINAL LINE de J. Herbin ... pas de Ces encres d'anniversaire scintillantes ou des encres parfumées, mais un ou deux de leur série standard et voir ce qui se passe.

 

Ils sont censés être neutres au pH (ce qui signifie qu'ils sont comme de l'eau, alors que Pelikan et Waterman sont des encres acides avec des lectures de pH relativement faibles) et n'utilisent que des colorants naturels ... Je ne connais aucune encre qui est " Plus sûr "que cela.

 

- Anthony

Edited May 18, 2017 by ParkerDuofold

[Freddy]

Hi

 

Pure talc is what I use now but didn't prevent the diaphragms from failing.

My previous batch of diaphragms was from Cathedral Pens, the current one is from the Pendragons. Same result.

My ink is bought in a brick and mortar shop, two different sources, same result as well.

I'm puzzled!

 

Ant1

 

I went over to the Pendragons site they suggest using silicone grease "will help the sac

slip back in the barrel" when installing filler unit. Personally I have been using Glycerin

USP..purchased locally at the pharmacy without any issues......Are you using some

sort of watered down soap or silicone grease..and if you are using silicone grease.

Is it 100% pure silicone grease that's used in scuba diving.....?

 

Fred

Edited May 18, 2017 by Freddy

[antonio ilmonaco]

Hi

 

I only use pure talc for lubricating the diaphragm. No grease, silicon, glycerin, etc.

I'll check Herbin, probably I can source some locally

 

Thanks

Ant1