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Platinum 3776 Sf (New) Skipping...


DavidHL

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Hello all!

 

I hope you can help me out. I recently bought a Sailor Profit Standard MF with a 21k nib and a Platinum 3776 Chartres Blue with a Soft Fine 14k nib.

 

Problem is, my platinum skips a lot and feels scratchy while writing. I need to apply some pressure in order for the nib not to skip while writing. I also tried the Sailor, and it is a completely different experience, it has a little bit of feedback but writes smoothly. I know this terms are very subjective, but at least I can tell you the feeling of the comparison. Sailor's nib feels great, like feedback, whilst the platinum nib feels scratchy and skips. I did a small writing sample where I first applied almost no pressure and then I did.

 

Is my Platinum Nib defective or is it that I just don't know how to use the soft fine nib?

 

 

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Have you flooded the feed?

Is your converter locked up if that happens later when you write? Try a cartridge to see if it goes away. Vapor lock in a converter is a common problem.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Thank you for your response, Bo Bo! I flushed the pen with dish soap, used the cartridge that comes with the pen, and the problem still persists. What do you mean with the converter being "locked up"?

 

I am using Diamine Sargasso Sea and Trye Diamine Sherwood Green inks in a 90gr copy paper.

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In my experience, Diamine Sherwood Green does not flow well, and clogged several of my pens.

It was a hunt to find a pen that would not clog with that ink.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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I have a 3776 Soft Fine and it was a little scratchy when I first got it. After I worked on the nib a bit, it was much smoother and it writes beautifully. My pen has a narrow sweet spot, btw. Note that I only use Platinum blue-black cartridges in it.

 

You may want to have a nibmeister work on it you don't feel comfortable working it.

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I had exactly the same problem with my Century SF and apparently it's quite common.

On close inspection you could see the tips of the tines were pressed together far too tightly. It would barely write under its own weight and required significant pressure to achieve a decent, wet line.

Because it's a soft nib it couldn't be adjusted while fitted to the pen (i.e. simply by pressing the tines down on a hard surface) because the tines would simply flex, then spring back to their original position. With the nib removed, however, and through a combination of flossing with a brass shim and pushing the shoulders of the nib back to open the tines, I was able to get a decent flow. With a decent flow of ink it now writes much more smoothly.
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In my experience, Diamine Sherwood Green does not flow well, and clogged several of my pens.

It was a hunt to find a pen that would not clog with that ink.

 

I will now be aware of the ink. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

I have a 3776 Soft Fine and it was a little scratchy when I first got it. After I worked on the nib a bit, it was much smoother and it writes beautifully. My pen has a narrow sweet spot, btw. Note that I only use Platinum blue-black cartridges in it.

 

You may want to have a nibmeister work on it you don't feel comfortable working it.

 

I guess I will send it to a nibmeister. I have no experience and I am afraid of doing something irreversible. I hope it gets as smooth as yours!

 

 

I had exactly the same problem with my Century SF and apparently it's quite common.

On close inspection you could see the tips of the tines were pressed together far too tightly. It would barely write under its own weight and required significant pressure to achieve a decent, wet line.

Because it's a soft nib it couldn't be adjusted while fitted to the pen (i.e. simply by pressing the tines down on a hard surface) because the tines would simply flex, then spring back to their original position. With the nib removed, however, and through a combination of flossing with a brass shim and pushing the shoulders of the nib back to open the tines, I was able to get a decent flow. With a decent flow of ink it now writes much more smoothly.

 

 

Thank you! This explains a lot! I tried pushing the nib several times with no success on the ink flow, now I see why. I will send it to a "nibmeister" to repair it. In Mexico, it is difficult to find one, but now that I did, I will just trust and pray.

 

I am happy to know that I am not the only one with the problem!

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Glad I read this thread, for while I had no ink flow problems, I found my 3776 too 'toothy'. I fortunately had the plastic cleaning strip from a Pilot Parallel pen, and used that to part the tines slightly. On poor paper there's still a little catch, but the pen now writes well and also I note, sings slightly.

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My 3776 SF was a little dry but nothing like what you are seeing. Make sure tines are aligned and maybe floss the slit in the nib.

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In addition to the comments made above, may I add the following:

1. It could be a problem with the TINES of the nib, info about how to remedy this can be found here: http://www.jetpens.com/blog/guide-to-fountain-pen-nibs-troubleshooting-tips-and-tricks/pt/777 , and Adjusting Tines to Amend Ink Flow by Raven March found here,

or,

2. It could be a problem with the FEED not been able to keep up to ink demands of the elastic nib, info about how to remedy this can be found here: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/309550-opening-air-channels-in-feed-for-flex-nibs/?do=findComment&comment=3762150

Also, picture found in post #107 in this FPN topic shows what attributes can make a feed more reliable in keeping up with increased ink supply of elastic nibs. I have tried this technique and has worked for me in several occasions.

3. Lastly, some people have suggested running a 500-600 sandpaper, for a couple of times, lightly, over the feed's channels to increase the space/reservoir for ink between the nib and the feed. I have only tried this in an inexpensive pen, it is fast but also very risky to ruin irrevocably the feed and thus the pen. This procedure is only done in the half part of the feed towards the ink cartridge to avoid ink dripping.

The Platinum 3776 is an exceptional pen, so unless you are adept in pen repairs, I would suggest you practice first on cheaper pens and perhaps ask the services of a nibmeister.

Hope this could be of some help.

Frank

Edited by Frank66

- Kaigelu 316 Modification (250 #6 Bock Nib / Beaufort Ink Converter)
- Titanium Bock Nib - Kaigelu 316 - Beaufort Ink

- Bock Rollerball Nib In Jinhao 886 Pen - Beaufort Ink Converter

- No affiliation with pen industry, just a pen hobbyist.

- It matters what you write, only for us it matters what we write it with.

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In my limited general experience with fountain pens, most problems go away with cleaning, I just cleaned a Sonnet for the third time, and this seems to have finally done the trick. It's just one of several potential issues to take into account, it doesn't mean the nib is free from problems, but I've destroyed way too many of them while trying to fix them... The second sets of problems are usually about converters. That said, my one and only Sailor has been working perfectly from the get go.

"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt."

 

B. Russell

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Glad I read this thread, for while I had no ink flow problems, I found my 3776 too 'toothy'. I fortunately had the plastic cleaning strip from a Pilot Parallel pen, and used that to part the tines slightly. On poor paper there's still a little catch, but the pen now writes well and also I note, sings slightly.

 

I am glad that you solved the issue! This is a wonderful looking pen and I believe it can provide a pleasant wirting experience.

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My 3776 SF was a little dry but nothing like what you are seeing. Make sure tines are aligned and maybe floss the slit in the nib.

 

Thank you for your input. I am a bit nervous about trying to work on the nib by myself and I don't have the tools either. I will send it to a nibmesiter this weekend and see how it goes.

 

In addition to the comments made above, may I add the following:

1. It could be a problem with the TINES of the nib, info about how to remedy this can be found here: http://www.jetpens.com/blog/guide-to-fountain-pen-nibs-troubleshooting-tips-and-tricks/pt/777 , and Adjusting Tines to Amend Ink Flow by Raven March found here,

or,

2. It could be a problem with the FEED not been able to keep up to ink demands of the elastic nib, info about how to remedy this can be found here: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/309550-opening-air-channels-in-feed-for-flex-nibs/?do=findComment&comment=3762150

Also, picture found in post #107 in this FPN topic shows what attributes can make a feed more reliable in keeping up with increased ink supply of elastic nibs. I have tried this technique and has worked for me in several occasions.

3. Lastly, some people have suggested running a 500-600 sandpaper, for a couple of times, lightly, over the feed's channels to increase the space/reservoir for ink between the nib and the feed. I have only tried this in an inexpensive pen, it is fast but also very risky to ruin irrevocably the feed and thus the pen. This procedure is only done in the half part of the feed towards the ink cartridge to avoid ink dripping.

The Platinum 3776 is an exceptional pen, so unless you are adept in pen repairs, I would suggest you practice first on cheaper pens and perhaps ask the services of a nibmeister.

Hope this could be of some help.

Frank

 

Frank, thank you very much for your deep and insightful comments. All these resources are very useful, and I will follow your advice on practicing on cheap pens first. In the meantime, I will send the pen to a nibmeister in Mexico City (the only one, apparently, that would take the work on non comercial fountain pens -the japanese brands are not available in physical stores) and will hope for the best.

 

I will post another writing sample when the pen comes back from service.

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I am glad that you solved the issue! This is a wonderful looking pen and I believe it can provide a pleasant wirting experience.

 

It still catches paper on the outside edges so I'm probably still going to get it professionally smoothed out, but it is a lot better ;)

 

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I will post another writing sample when the pen comes back from service.

 

For learning purposes, it would be interesting to know, if possible, what the actual problem was with the pen, and how the nibmeister managed to fix it. It is a great pen, and I am also thinking of getting one myself. Thanks.

- Kaigelu 316 Modification (250 #6 Bock Nib / Beaufort Ink Converter)
- Titanium Bock Nib - Kaigelu 316 - Beaufort Ink

- Bock Rollerball Nib In Jinhao 886 Pen - Beaufort Ink Converter

- No affiliation with pen industry, just a pen hobbyist.

- It matters what you write, only for us it matters what we write it with.

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In the meantime, I will send the pen to a nibmeister in Mexico City (the only one, apparently, that would take the work on non comercial fountain pens -the japanese brands are not available in physical stores) and will hope for the best.

 

I will post another writing sample when the pen comes back from service.

 

Could you tell us this nibmeister's details? Couldn't find them online, got a couple of scratchy Lamy nibs.

"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt."

 

B. Russell

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Could you tell us this nibmeister's details? Couldn't find them online, got a couple of scratchy Lamy nibs.

 

Of course! I know three pen repair centers. I don't know if you need a certificate to become a nibmeister, as a doctor, or lawyer etc, but I called them that way for the sake of simplicity. The three are in Mexico City.

 

(I am not affiliated to any of the stores and describe here my experiences only where they apply)

 

1.- Papelería el Globo

 

website: They have no website but if you look them up in google, you will get results with reviews from their stationary.

 

address: Av. 5 de Mayo 39, Centro Histórico, Centro, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX

 

This Stationary Shop has been around for almost 80 years with a pen repair service. I have never given a pen to be repaired here, but because of the years of experience, I will bring my Platinum for service here.

 

2.- PLUFI

 

website: http://plufi.com/ (site is under construction now but the address is shown in the website)

 

Address: CC Plaza San Jeronimo, Av. San Jerónimo 630, La Otra Banda, 01090 Ciudad de México, CDMX

 

PLUFI is one of the biggest pen stores in Mexico City, and the women that are in charge of the store are very kind. Once, I accidentaly dropped a Faber Castell Loom to the floor, and because of gravity, the nib fall straight against the carpet. My nib became very scratchy with baby bottom and on of them was kind enough to repair it free of cost.

 

3.- Miguel Angel Pen Stationary

 

website: http://www.miguelangel.mx/

 

address:

 

5 de Mayo 29, Local H,

Centro Histórico

Entre Motolinia y Bolivar

Ciudad de México, D.F. 06000

 

They have been around for a long time too, and they have a repair service. Unfortunately they only repair the type of pens they sell (that, by no means are a few. Montblanc, Lamy, Faber Castell Inoxcrom, Parker, OMAS etc).

 

Unfortunately, I asked them about my Platinum, but they won't receive it.

 

There you go, I hope you find this useful.

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Out of the box, expect a 3776C nib to need some minor adjustment before it will write properly, especially with the finer nibs. My black/gold 3776C had an SF nib. Out of the box ink flow was OK after a good cleaning, but writing with the thing was like dragging finger-nails on a chalk-board. Twenty minutes later after tweaking under magnification and a bit of smoothing, the pen is a good reliable writer.

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