Vintage Shellac Repair

[CoolPensAreCool]

I have and old pen and the threads for the cap have come undone. Sometimes when I try to remove the cap, the barrel comes off instead. Is there a brand or style of shellac to use to reattach the threads?

 

One a related topic, how to do you loosen shellac? I have a Sheaffer Clipper Snorkel that I need to replace a sack but I can't get it open.

 

Thanks!

[zoniale]

One a related topic, how to do you loosen shellac?

I am not sure that I understand your first question. On this one: apply heat (moderate - hairdryer) and plenty of patience.

[PaulS]

keeping the heat confined to the top of the barrel - to create expansion - rather than the section, but you will need a good grip to help. Either purpose made section pliers or failing which some non-slip matting material - skin doesn't make for an efficient grip on plastic.

 

when you unscrew the pen and it's the barrel only that comes away, it sounds as though the cap has shrunk to some degree and, with dry threads this can cause a locking up of the threads. Either don't screw up too tightly or perhaps apply a little silicone grease to the cap threads to try and avoid them locking up. If you have a pen and the cap is locked on, again it's the dry hair dryer heat, applied to the cap, which should be the answer.

I don't think that threads themselves come off.

Edited April 25, 2017 by PaulS

[CoolPensAreCool]

I am not sure that I understand your first question. On this one: apply heat (moderate - hairdryer) and plenty of patience.

 

The threads on this pen are a metal ring glued onto the section.

[PaulS]

so it's the threaded metal ring which correctly should be attached to the section, that becomes detached - and presumably the threaded female counterpart, inside the cap, is fixed.

Assuming I'm correct, then I don't think shellac would be a permanent answer - might be o.k. temporarily but my thoughts are that you'll need a stronger adhesive such as araldite or super glue. If the area underneath where the metal ring locates is cleaned with something not harmful to the pen, then apply very small amount of glue making sure it doesn't spread either side of where the ring will sit.

I'm guessing the original method of fixing the ring was simply a tight fit, which o.k. provided the plastic doesn't shrink, but unfortunately it often does - it needs only a thou. or two and the benefit of a tight fit is lost.

[CoolPensAreCool]

keeping the heat confined to the top of the barrel - to create expansion - rather than the section, but you will need a good grip to help. Either purpose made section pliers or failing which some non-slip matting material - skin doesn't make for an efficient grip on plastic.

 

when you unscrew the pen and it's the barrel only that comes away, it sounds as though the cap has shrunk to some degree and, with dry threads this can cause a locking up of the threads. Either don't screw up too tightly or perhaps apply a little silicone grease to the cap threads to try and avoid them locking up. If you have a pen and the cap is locked on, again it's the dry hair dryer heat, applied to the cap, which should be the answer.

I don't think that threads themselves come off.

 

 

Thanks for the answer. The cap comes off but the section won't detach from the barrel. Would it be the same procedure or is their a special way to do it?

[FarmBoy]

The threads on this pen are a metal ring glued onto the section.

Press fit.

[PaulS]

my first paragraph, above, was probably the answer you want ........ dry heat applied to the barrel, where it threads to the section, should give enough expansion to allow the two parts to be undone, but you will need a good grip on both parts of the pen - section pliers if you don't already have them.

Problems can come if some comedian has glued or used lot of shellac to join these two components in the past - have patience - keep persevering, and keep applying the heat.

I've little knowledge of Sheaffer pens, quite how much heat can be used I'm not sure - perhaps someone else will advise.

If you intend to restore a few pens, it's well worth getting the Oldfield and Marshall 'Pen Repair - Third Edition.

 

Would be interesting to see a picture of your 'old pen'

[Zookie]

Not that this is relevant to your question, but alcohol is used as a solvent for shellac.

[PaulS]

I've also heard of using methylated spirits - does that sound right?

[Wally626]

Yes, you can use shellac to glue metal parts back onto the ben body or section. It has the disadvantage of not being a very good glue and the advantage of not being a very good glue. I had one pen with a pull cap that would pull the body off instead of the cap, when you grabbed the cap and body and pulled. I used shellac to glue the metal ring back on the body. If things are not right you can get the shellac lose with a little heat, an epoxy glue would probably never come lose. Do note I have experience with one pen.

 

In the case of getting bodies off old Sheaffer touchdowns snorkels and the like, the first step should be a long soak in water, with perhaps a bit of dish soap (hand wash not machine wash). The body should be sealed to the section using a thread sealant, traditionally made from rosin and castor oil. This is sticky and seals air leaks but does not form a permanent bond. With a little heat and patience this should unscrew. Just do not turn too hard or apply too much heat. Even in my very short career in pens, I have seen the damage from overheating and too much muscle from previous repairers.

 

Some people use shellac to seal Sheaffer pens, this works short term but is much harder to remove, but heating the part will eventually loosen it up. Apply heat, turn a little, apply more heat, turn, etc. until it comes lose. There are some good U-tube videos were the technique is demonstrated. The main issue is the temperature to degrade shellac is not all that much lower than the softening temperature of the body plastics. The margin is OK for a Sheaffer snorkel but pretty small on older pens. Many recommend using the rosin and oil mixture to reseal the threads on the Sheaffer pens, so far I have just used silicone grease and it has worked. You can buy the Sheaffer sealant mixture on-line if you wish to use it. Just stay away from permanent thread sealants like shellac, etc. A bit more experience here, up to my 4th touchdown successful repair.

[goodpens]

Just do not turn too hard or apply too much heat. Even in my very short career in pens, I have seen the damage from overheating and too much muscle from previous repairers.

+1 for this good advice. Patience is your friend.

[Ron Z]

Not that this is relevant to your question, but alcohol is used as a solvent for shellac.

 

Alcohol is also a solvent for celluloid i.e. it will dissolve some celluloids rather quickly and can cloud the surface of others. Granted the later can be buffed off, but be cautious when and how you use alcohol around pens. The alcohol in shellac is not a problem. direct application to celluloid may be.

 

re. taking Snorkels and Touchdowns apart. I rather strongly recommend that you NOT soak the pen (note the bold type, underlined and in italics). Snorkels especially. The spring in snorkels is carbon steel and rusts very easily and makes an awful mess if you get water in the barrel, which you are likely to do if you soak the pens. Careful application of heat on the barrel is the better option.

[CoolPensAreCool]

my first paragraph, above, was probably the answer you want ........ dry heat applied to the barrel, where it threads to the section, should give enough expansion to allow the two parts to be undone, but you will need a good grip on both parts of the pen - section pliers if you don't already have them.

Problems can come if some comedian has glued or used lot of shellac to join these two components in the past - have patience - keep persevering, and keep applying the heat.

I've little knowledge of Sheaffer pens, quite how much heat can be used I'm not sure - perhaps someone else will advise.

If you intend to restore a few pens, it's well worth getting the Oldfield and Marshall 'Pen Repair - Third Edition.

 

Would be interesting to see a picture of your 'old pen'

I will post as soon as I can. I'm still new so the forum won't let me post pics yet

[PaulS]

If that is the case I'd forgotten - are you quite sure - do you know how many posts are required before you can add pix??

[CoolPensAreCool]

If that is the case I'd forgotten - are you quite sure - do you know how many posts are required before you can add pix??

According to the information forum, it's longevity not frequency. I think I have to get beyond bronze + before I can post photos which is after a month.

[Ron Z]

IIRC it's 30 days and 30 posts. Since you joined on April 17, you have a couple of weeks to go.

[CoolPensAreCool]

Here is my pen, btw.