Nitpicky comment: Your post threw me off. The clutch ring is on the barrel. The clutch itself is a stainless piece about 1" long that has 4 or 6 "fingers" depending on when it was made.
The fact that I don't like the superglue idea (I don't like superglue in general) I think that the glue will not do the trick. The edge of the cap lip is rolled over, and it can take a fair bit of force to pull the clutch out, even with the right tools.
There was a thread recently where someone made a tool that grips the inside edge of the clutch and jacks it out of the cap. This is a problem for pens with a 1st year cap because the clutch is longer and goes all of the way down to the inner cap. This means that you have to grip at the back end of the clutch, not the inside end.
Stuart Hawkinson makes one that I've used for over a decade now that has fingers that fit into the gaps in the cap clutch. Turning the back end spreads the fingers, which then grip the back end of the clutch so it's pulling instead of pushing the inner cap out. It works very well, and does not damage the clutch. Stuart also sells a mandrel that is a precise fit for a 51 cap, which also works well. With careful work and close examination of the cap, it is possible to get all of the dents out.
I do recommend pushing the fingers in a bit to tighten the clutch, which has usually loosened over time from pressure as the cap is put on the barrel.
Reinserting is not a bit deal, and can be pressed back in. Sometimes the clutch catches on the cap lip, in which case you need to shave a little off of the inside edge of the cap lip where it was rolled over so that the clutch can slide past without getting snagged and bending.
The other alternative is to send the cap out to be done. I charge $35 to de-ding, and $50 to deding a lustraloy cap and refrost with the appropriate treatment - Vac and aerometric caps are done differently.