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Kultur Soft Question


jbelian

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My Kulturs are mostly non-starters in spite of nib adjustments and flushing and flossing. What has worked with some other non-starting C/C pens has been to remove the converter and use a cartridge. I don't know yet if the benefit of using the cartridge extends to the time after the factory fill has been used and I refill the cartridge. There might be magic in the factory ink.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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Can you link to that vid? I just looked and can't find it. I'd like to try that.

 

Part one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuq9tuKRbCY

 

Part two: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YRnN99412o

 

Part Three:

 

For mine I just flushed the pen thoroughly, separated the tines just a tiny little bit, cleaned the slit with a post-it and used a really-fine-grain wet sandpaper with grit close to mylar to soften it. I didn't use the brass sheet because it's really difficult to get one here in Mexico.

 

My Kulturs are mostly non-starters in spite of nib adjustments and flushing and flossing. What has worked with some other non-starting C/C pens has been to remove the converter and use a cartridge. I don't know yet if the benefit of using the cartridge extends to the time after the factory fill has been used and I refill the cartridge. There might be magic in the factory ink.

 

Mine used to be a hard starter and skipper with any ink, even with the long Waterman cartridges I originally bought for it. So far I've only tested blue Skript ink from Sheaffer in a converter and short int'l cartridges from Inoxcrom, The Sheaffer is the dryest ink I have but worked great, the Inoxcrom is comparable to Waterman inks in wetness, I'd say a little bit "greasy" which is just how I like an ink to behave.

 

Peace.

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