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Crowd-Sourcing Successor To A Pelikan M100


tricnomistal

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Hi everyone,

 

I'm hoping to find a good successor to my Pelikan m100--an NOS pen I bought a few years back--for the position of best writer I've had. And because I know there are a bunch of intelligent, knowledgeable, and good folks on this forum, I thought I would beseech you to aid me via some crowd-sourcing.

 

Here's the history: My m100 is the best writer I've owned, with previous pens including a Pelikan m150, Waterman Phileas, Bexley Corona (steal nib), and a few others that I only had for brief periods. I recently purchased an Aurora Optima, which the seller adjusted and tested before the sale. It wrote with the perfect wetness because of this. It was also gorgeous. Sadly, it was how I learned that I'm not a huge fan of that level of feedback. So I sent it back for exchange or possibly a return if I can't find something I like.

 

Now, to the problem at hand. I have always wanted to try a nicer Pelikan, and my experience with the m100 makes me think this is a good idea. Still, they're a bit pricier than some options, there are just masses of choices out there. I'd heard that Sailor nibs were top notch, and they are usually described as smooth. So I have considered the 1911 full-size. I've also considered getting a Parker, though I've heard mixed reviews about them.

 

What are some pens you might suggest for my predicament? Any thoughts on the ones I've mentioned? I'm shooting to stay at or below the cost of a Pelikan m400. I've comfortably used pens of lots of different sizes, so that's not a huge concern. I just want to know what some good suggestions might be. The more options you guys mention, the more my own creative juices will flow. And often, other people point out options I had never even heard of!

 

A big thank You to everyone who helps!

 

- Tric.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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I'm not sure I understand your predicament. As far as I know the Pelikan M100 is the same size and uses the same springy steel nib as a M150. :huh:

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I'm not sure I understand your predicament. As far as I know the Pelikan M100 is the same size and uses the same springy steel nib as a M150. :huh:

Well, to state my problem plainly, I’m just looking for a good step-up from the 100/150 level Pelikan, and I didn’t like how the Aurora wrote when I tried replacing it with that. For whatever reason, this m100 writes better than the m150. I got rid of that pen a few years ago, when I was still pretty new to FPs, so it could have just been that I was using too much pressure or not angling my hand correctly.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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  • 2 weeks later...

To me, the obvious step up would be to the Pelikan 200/400 - you like the form and feel of the modern 100, and the 200/400 size is a small step up from that.That seems like a safe bet. Whether you went for a steel (200) or gold (400) nib would depend on your personal preference (and budget).

 

Alternatively, sticking with Pelikan, you might be tempted to try find a vintage 140. They are readily available, quite robust and often write rather nicely.

 

If you're looking to branch out to other brands, then your choice is much broader, and it becomes hard to make suggestions. If you have access to a decent B&M store or a pen show, then I'd suggest going in person and trying a few models in person.

 

If you have to buy online and want a new pen, then Pilot's 74, 91 and 92 models might be for you (design is restrained, similar to the Pelikan). Alternatively, go for something from Edison or Franklin Christoph. Or even consider the Lamy 2000.

 

Or actually, if you like smooth nibs, you could do much worse than trying a Faber Castell Loom.

 

Good luck.

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Chase the 200's...better nib....a springy 'true' regular flex nib, softer ride, cleaner line. 1/2 a size narrower than the fat and blobby modern 400/600.

A '90's no gold ring 400 has the same good nib in gold. Used could be near the price of a new 200 and a used 200 works just as good as a used 400 and is cheaper.

 

I don't know if the 100's nib fits a 200, but if it does you are ahead of the game.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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In the 200 series you can still get a m215 that has a metal body that gives it a little more weight then the m200/m400. I like my m215 better then my m200.

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Aside from this

 

"which the seller adjusted and tested before the sale. It wrote with the perfect wetness because of this. It was also gorgeous. Sadly, it was how I learned that I'm not a huge fan of that level of feedback."

 

You have not said anything about what apparently is a critical thing for you, the nib. And even so, you have said very little to base a recommendation on.

- How wet?

- How smooth?

And note that these are not absolute, but relative, so smooth to me may or may not be smooth to you.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Huh, I honestly thought this thread wasn't going to get any more commentary. Thanks for the advice and suggestions everyone. Before this conversation was re-awoken, I bought a Sailor 1911 standard. It's done a great job so far, but time will be a better judge.

 

I'm thinking my next purchase will be a Pelikan. I hadn't really considered a vintage pen, though I've heard lots of good things. If anyone knows much about the vintage Pelikans, any wisdom is appreciated.

 

As for what I'm looking for, I guess I didn't go into too much depth with wetness because that I prefer to buy from sellers who adjust the nib, and that's a pretty easy request. I'm shooting for smooth-as-silk writing (which I know is highly subjective and depends heavily upon the paper and ink) and a mid-to-wet ink flow. Whatever I get should preferably be available in a broad. I love a big, bold line. The Sailor broad is just a hair thin, though it writes nicely enough to make up for it.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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I have an m400, and it's the one that never fails; I was set on a blue m605, but the price is way out of my budget. On the way there I stumbled upon the Sailor Pro Gear, while the nib on my Pelikan is ok, the Sailor is spectacular. It's not as big as I would wanted but the section is thick enough. Even larger Sailor pens seem to go for what for me are outlandish prices. Sailor nibs draw thinner lines, I went for a Medium and it writes finer than my Pelikan's fine. The Sailor has never had a problem starting or skipping, the converter is small.

 

From left to right: Sailor pro gear, Pelikan M400, Parker Sonnet, Waterman Le Man 100.

 

fpn_1482786395__img_20161226_150144.jpg

Edited by pseudo88

"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt."

 

B. Russell

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I have a Parson's Essential - it cost me £39. It sits in my hand very well, and I'm always impressed when I pick it up and wrtite with it. it feels like an lod familiar friend. I have bpought more expensive pens than the PE, but the PE always comes back to my hand and always feels right. I think what I'm trying to say is that since the M100 suits you, you might not find a similarly impressive pen, even if you spend more money.

 

However, I suggest you have a "pen off" with the pens in your collection. Take you pens, and a passage/poem and copy it out - once with every pen you have. As you write, think about how the pen feels - what is it that you like about it, what is it that you don't. Is it the weight of the pen, or does the grip have a particular groove - or length, or girth that suits your fingers - is it the is it the way the pen sits in the rest of your hand? How does the nib work on the paper? How much pressure do you have to exert - how does your handwrriting look? Which pen leaves you fatigued and which one inspires you to write even more?

 

Lay the pens down in order of preference - just right goes in the middle - below goes underneath and above goes on top. You'll then have some data to reflect upon and

you might be able to calibrate your experience more and work out which characteristics of the M100 you love - and that might help you (and us) come up with some more suggestions.

 

The suggestion might be to stick with the M100 - if something feels right - why meddle with it? Either buy another M100 - or put the money towards some paper and ink.

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I have a Parson's Essential - it cost me £39. It sits in my hand very well, and I'm always impressed when I pick it up and wrtite with it. it feels like an lod familiar friend. I have bpought more expensive pens than the PE, but the PE always comes back to my hand and always feels right. I think what I'm trying to say is that since the M100 suits you, you might not find a similarly impressive pen, even if you spend more money.

 

However, I suggest you have a "pen off" with the pens in your collection. Take you pens, and a passage/poem and copy it out - once with every pen you have. As you write, think about how the pen feels - what is it that you like about it, what is it that you don't. Is it the weight of the pen, or does the grip have a particular groove - or length, or girth that suits your fingers - is it the is it the way the pen sits in the rest of your hand? How does the nib work on the paper? How much pressure do you have to exert - how does your handwrriting look? Which pen leaves you fatigued and which one inspires you to write even more?

 

Lay the pens down in order of preference - just right goes in the middle - below goes underneath and above goes on top. You'll then have some data to reflect upon and

you might be able to calibrate your experience more and work out which characteristics of the M100 you love - and that might help you (and us) come up with some more suggestions.

 

The suggestion might be to stick with the M100 - if something feels right - why meddle with it? Either buy another M100 - or put the money towards some paper and ink.

Interesting suggestion. I guess I'd never considered the "pen off" idea.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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In you have been using a 'true' regular flex in your 100, your Hand would be light enough to get a '50-65 400/n/nn. The 400nn is sometimes a bit cheaper....do check German Ebay, and sellers that take Penpal and ship out of Germany.

Click auction only....there are a lot of 'Buy Now' muggers :angry: to be found. I was looking for someone last month and found '50-65 400's from E75 to 110....there are more expensive ones buy why waste money.

 

You may like the size of the 140 if you like your 100's size.They might be close.

 

 

The nibs of the 140-400's of that era are stubs...so are rather flat on the bottom...from the factory...not done by shade tree mechanics. They are being vintage, like the semi-vintage 1/2 a width narrower than modern.....not counting the 200 and your 100's nib. That nib width is what you will get with Vintage ('50-65) or semi-vintage. ('82-97)

 

The 400&400n are standard sized pens.

 

The medium large 400nn holds a lot more ink than it looks. There is disputes on how much it holds if the piston is fully adjusted for top volume. A regular 400 holds 1.25-1.30 or so ml. The 400nn has been said to take 1.97ml which is a lot more than the fat MB 149's 1.60ml.

I keep forgetting to weigh mine before inking.

 

If you mash your 'true' regular flex 100, it will spread it's tines 3X a light down stroke.

Semi-flex takes half that effort to reach 3 X.

Maxi-semi-flex, half of that or 1/4th the pressure needed to mash a regular flex nib to 3X.

 

The only company that you can tell the difference between semi & maxi is the Osmia. Diamond nib=semi-flex, a Supra nib is maxi-semi-flex. Costs 1/4&+ more than Pelikan.

 

I have 26 semi-flex and 13 maxi-semi-flex....subtract the Osmia Supra nibs...I don't know but will guess 5 of them. 7-8 maxi's.

 

Of my three Geha 790's one is maxi....my 760 same quality level is semi-flex so 1 of 4.

My '50's MB's one is semi-flex...one is half way between and one is maxi.

 

My Pelikans...I have two 140's which are semi-flex........others say they have a maxi in it. A 140 is a medium small pen that posts as long as a 400. Long cap. Medium Small was IN, back then...fit the shirt pocket even better than a 400. Kaweco had one....Geha' 760 was actually their top of the line.

I have only good things to say about the 140.

I have an post war -54, Ibis that is a maxi.

 

My three '50-54 400's are semi-flex....a maxi could happen in it is pure luck of the draw. I have a 500 '51-54? that is maxi. A 500 has a rolled gold cap and piston cap overlay, out side of that it is a 400.

My 400nn OF is a maxi....could be just as easy a semi-flex.

 

Pens back then were sold in the 'Corner Pen shop' by folks that knew what they were doing. So they could have asked do you want a bit more spring to your semi-flex nib....if they used that term and showed them the easier to flex maxi.

There are just a bit too many around to be accidental.

Outside of Osmia none of those nibs are marked to show it is semi or maxi. Luck of the draw today.

 

I wouldn't worry about it any...just get a 140 or a '50's 400 or 400nn and have fun.

On German Ebay often tortoise goes for regular prices. Folks selling gramps or great gramps pens with out an idea.

You have to make sure the four rills of the feed are ok...not chipped....(if minor chipped it will still work....but I've been eagle eyed on that, so only have 'perfect' feeds.

 

 

If you read my signature, semi-flex is not for real fancy writing...just adds some of that old fashioned fountain pen flair.

 

Obliques...I have 13 in both those flex rates...and :puddle:. I think one should start with OB in it has a fatter sweet spot. It like a regular vintage B is a writing nib, not a signature nib. More like a fat M than a modern fat B.

Obliques are a canted nib, so you need to slot your cap so the clip is aligned between the slit and the right hand edge of the nib. Grip the pen in the air using the clip to aim, and put it on the paper and write.

Do not twist your fingers, or hand or arm, nor hang on the chandelier to 'make' the nib do something....what I don't know but there are some who want to make the nib act like a superflex nib...which it is not.

 

My first semi-flex pen was an OB 140..... :drool: :puddle: . As soon as I pressed the nib to my thumb at the flea market, I knew what all the fuss was about. :happyberet:

 

Now....the Geha 790 gold or steel nib is equal and has suddenly jumped in price by half over the last two years....it is still 1/3 cheaper than a 140 which is now E90-110.

Geha 790 can be had at E30 with luck...if not don't pay more than E60, there will be a cheaper one around the next week.

Torpedo was IN...the MB 146/9, the Pelikan 400NN, and the Geha 790/760.

Make sure you get a three ring one...one with out a three rings are school pens....a nice regular flex pen the size of a 790. To be had for E12-19 on German Ebay.....of course you can 'Buy Now' on US Ebay from German pirates one for only $89.00....if you wish.

 

The best buy of semi-flex, standard sized 790 (I only have 3) very well made and solid. Geha also from Hanover aimed it's pens at Pelikan's market. The 790 is late '50's-mid to late '60's. Great nib...steel or gold =. I was a gold snob fool when I was newer....Geha or Osmia steel nibs are as good as anyone's gold. :bunny01:

 

Two posters I respect said, the Geha nib is a tad better than Pelikan.....so I dug out my Geha's and my Pelikans of that era and tested. They were right....the Geha is a slight tad better. :thumbup:

As a 'noobie' to semi-flex you won't know the difference...one need experience that can only be gotten with a real big hand full of semi-flex pens.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/B6FmJVwB2kKGrHqEOKm4EyyFEhzKZBMwIPTRw_12_zpskew3nmrm.jpg

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/B6FmHUwBWkKGrHqEOKiMEyVVGG6IBMwIK6RCg_12_zpstun7ukvs.jpg

 

A true three ring...perhaps '58-9 Geha 790....the pictures are from the seller and the rings polished up real nice.

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/img8414j_zpscuc3gw3n.jpg

 

:blush: :rolleyes:

Could be all my bragging was why it has become so expensive lately. :unsure:

 

 

A medium small 760 back when it was Geha's flagship had a gold ring at the piston cap....it's normally E20-25 more than a normal 790. Same grand nib.

With out the ring less....in color more. Mine has no ring but is gray stripped so cost the same.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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In you have been using a 'true' regular flex in your 100, your Hand would be light enough to get a '50-65 400/n/nn. The 400nn is sometimes a bit cheaper....do check German Ebay, and sellers that take Penpal and ship out of Germany.

Click auction only....there are a lot of 'Buy Now' muggers :angry: to be found. I was looking for someone last month and found '50-65 400's from E75 to 110....there are more expensive ones buy why waste money.

 

You may like the size of the 140 if you like your 100's size.They might be close.

 

 

The nibs of the 140-400's of that era are stubs...so are rather flat on the bottom...from the factory...not done by shade tree mechanics. They are being vintage, like the semi-vintage 1/2 a width narrower than modern.....not counting the 200 and your 100's nib. That nib width is what you will get with Vintage ('50-65) or semi-vintage. ('82-97)

 

The 400&400n are standard sized pens.

 

The medium large 400nn holds a lot more ink than it looks. There is disputes on how much it holds if the piston is fully adjusted for top volume. A regular 400 holds 1.25-1.30 or so ml. The 400nn has been said to take 1.97ml which is a lot more than the fat MB 149's 1.60ml.

I keep forgetting to weigh mine before inking.

 

If you mash your 'true' regular flex 100, it will spread it's tines 3X a light down stroke.

Semi-flex takes half that effort to reach 3 X.

Maxi-semi-flex, half of that or 1/4th the pressure needed to mash a regular flex nib to 3X.

 

The only company that you can tell the difference between semi & maxi is the Osmia. Diamond nib=semi-flex, a Supra nib is maxi-semi-flex. Costs 1/4&+ more than Pelikan.

 

I have 26 semi-flex and 13 maxi-semi-flex....subtract the Osmia Supra nibs...I don't know but will guess 5 of them. 7-8 maxi's.

 

Of my three Geha 790's one is maxi....my 760 same quality level is semi-flex so 1 of 4.

My '50's MB's one is semi-flex...one is half way between and one is maxi.

 

My Pelikans...I have two 140's which are semi-flex........others say they have a maxi in it. A 140 is a medium small pen that posts as long as a 400. Long cap. Medium Small was IN, back then...fit the shirt pocket even better than a 400. Kaweco had one....Geha' 760 was actually their top of the line.

I have only good things to say about the 140.

I have an post war -54, Ibis that is a maxi.

 

My three '50-54 400's are semi-flex....a maxi could happen in it is pure luck of the draw. I have a 500 '51-54? that is maxi. A 500 has a rolled gold cap and piston cap overlay, out side of that it is a 400.

My 400nn OF is a maxi....could be just as easy a semi-flex.

 

Pens back then were sold in the 'Corner Pen shop' by folks that knew what they were doing. So they could have asked do you want a bit more spring to your semi-flex nib....if they used that term and showed them the easier to flex maxi.

There are just a bit too many around to be accidental.

Outside of Osmia none of those nibs are marked to show it is semi or maxi. Luck of the draw today.

 

I wouldn't worry about it any...just get a 140 or a '50's 400 or 400nn and have fun.

On German Ebay often tortoise goes for regular prices. Folks selling gramps or great gramps pens with out an idea.

You have to make sure the four rills of the feed are ok...not chipped....(if minor chipped it will still work....but I've been eagle eyed on that, so only have 'perfect' feeds.

 

 

If you read my signature, semi-flex is not for real fancy writing...just adds some of that old fashioned fountain pen flair.

 

Obliques...I have 13 in both those flex rates...and :puddle:. I think one should start with OB in it has a fatter sweet spot. It like a regular vintage B is a writing nib, not a signature nib. More like a fat M than a modern fat B.

Obliques are a canted nib, so you need to slot your cap so the clip is aligned between the slit and the right hand edge of the nib. Grip the pen in the air using the clip to aim, and put it on the paper and write.

Do not twist your fingers, or hand or arm, nor hang on the chandelier to 'make' the nib do something....what I don't know but there are some who want to make the nib act like a superflex nib...which it is not.

 

My first semi-flex pen was an OB 140..... :drool: :puddle: . As soon as I pressed the nib to my thumb at the flea market, I knew what all the fuss was about. :happyberet:

 

Now....the Geha 790 gold or steel nib is equal and has suddenly jumped in price by half over the last two years....it is still 1/3 cheaper than a 140 which is now E90-110.

Geha 790 can be had at E30 with luck...if not don't pay more than E60, there will be a cheaper one around the next week.

Torpedo was IN...the MB 146/9, the Pelikan 400NN, and the Geha 790/760.

Make sure you get a three ring one...one with out a three rings are school pens....a nice regular flex pen the size of a 790. To be had for E12-19 on German Ebay.....of course you can 'Buy Now' on US Ebay from German pirates one for only $89.00....if you wish.

 

The best buy of semi-flex, standard sized 790 (I only have 3) very well made and solid. Geha also from Hanover aimed it's pens at Pelikan's market. The 790 is late '50's-mid to late '60's. Great nib...steel or gold =. I was a gold snob fool when I was newer....Geha or Osmia steel nibs are as good as anyone's gold. :bunny01:

 

Two posters I respect said, the Geha nib is a tad better than Pelikan.....so I dug out my Geha's and my Pelikans of that era and tested. They were right....the Geha is a slight tad better. :thumbup:

As a 'noobie' to semi-flex you won't know the difference...one need experience that can only be gotten with a real big hand full of semi-flex pens.

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/B6FmJVwB2kKGrHqEOKm4EyyFEhzKZBMwIPTRw_12_zpskew3nmrm.jpg

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/B6FmHUwBWkKGrHqEOKiMEyVVGG6IBMwIK6RCg_12_zpstun7ukvs.jpg

 

A true three ring...perhaps '58-9 Geha 790....the pictures are from the seller and the rings polished up real nice.

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/img8414j_zpscuc3gw3n.jpg

 

:blush: :rolleyes:

Could be all my bragging was why it has become so expensive lately. :unsure:

 

 

A medium small 760 back when it was Geha's flagship had a gold ring at the piston cap....it's normally E20-25 more than a normal 790. Same grand nib.

With out the ring less....in color more. Mine has no ring but is gray stripped so cost the same.

Thanks for the thorough response! I'll try and reply to some of the points:

 

My 100 isn't flexible at all, and thought I tried to see how springy it was, I wouldn't be comfortable trying to use pressure for line variation.

 

I'd never considered using German Ebay. I guess I assumed shipping to the U.S. would be expensive, but perhaps I will have to check it out.

 

I'd always been curious about flex nibs, but never really had an opportunity to try one. As for the 400n, I'd definately seen those before but I hadn't given them much thought. I'll be looking into them more.

 

I'd never heard of the Geha pens. I will check them out as well.

 

Thanks again!

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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I should be clear: my Pelikan is an m100 (circa 1980s-1990s) not the much earlier 100.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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BoBo,

 

I always enjoy reading your thoughtful notes. The combination of history, experience, and your personal insights make for potent reading!

 

Thank you, Bobo

 

Dick

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Thank you Dick.

 

Tricnomistal...the '50's-65 400-400nn are not 'flex' pens....'flex' pens are super flex....they spread their tines wider than a semi-flex or maxi-semi-flex which are @ 3 X tine spread....just like your 100....when maxed....and a golden rule is never max your nib.......(outside the first time to see what flex it has.) Richard Binder's com is the bible of fountain pens, pretty pens, nibs and filling systems and good advice about inks...should take you three full days to read.

 

He has an article one must read.....he calls it something else...I call it 'How to bend/spring your nib....101." The more you max it the sooner it will spring.

Or as Jar says, "Every nib flexes....once."

 

You don't have to push your 100's nib....no nib should be 'pushed'. In most folks coming from ball point are Ham Fisted :rolleyes: , your nib has been pushed enough.

 

A 'true' regular flex....is not a nib for line variation....it is just what was once normal to find in any company but Parker since The War. Normal nice springy ride....a nice comfortable ride...when compared to the now normal semi-nail or nail nibs.

 

There is a bit of give to the nib bend and a tad of tine spread.(You really have to Mash it to get it to spread to 3X a light down stroke) ....Semi-flex is that ++, so one gets because of easier tine bend and spread, some line variation****....I see that as flair***....but many folks really push a nib thinking semi-flex.....and not semi-flex........almost flex.

 

***When one is newer and heavier handed one gets more flex out of a semi-flex. :rolleyes:

It took me some 3 months to lighten my Hand up enough with my first semi-flex a 140 OB for what turned out to be a maxi-semi-flex nib a Pelikan 400nn. I was once again Heavy Handed/Ham Fisted with the maxi...so took some time to lighten my Hand again.

 

 

**** I had my semi-flex '50's B on my 605.... :notworthy1: Flair, nice line variation with out doing anything. So many want to make the nib do stuff, wanting it to be superflex...so push the nib for even more line variation.

That you get with semi&maxi oblique nibs of that era :notworthy1: :thumbup: :puddle: .....don't waste your money on post '65 obliques unless you are left eye dominate and naturally cant your nib or are left handed.

 

German Post is rather cheap....in unlike the US where a bribed Congress not only threw the Post Office out on it's ear....it required them to take take over all the Government postal pensions being, being paid out...pay all the future pensions and all at once. They are by law not allowed to bribe Congress, like UPS and Fed-Ex which drove up the price of normal mail packages so high they could much more than compete with the Post office.

 

Once they had a 'cheap' book rate....I found I paid less for overweight at an overseas flight for books than what it cost to mail to Germany now.

 

It could be along with Canada the US has the most expensive post office in the world.

 

 

The Germans when they tossed their post office, kept paying the pensions out of government money and to those many who retired early because of that....so German post is lots cheaper than the poor US enslaved one.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I've liked vintage German broad nibs the most. Really, I'd be repeating most of what Bill said.

 

Don't discount Montblancs. I recently got my hands on a 14 with an OBB nib, and that is a seriously sweet writer.

 

I watched a 221 with a B nib go on the bay for just 79 dollars. Seemed like a sweet deal.

 

The pelikan 140 can also be had with some great nibs.

 

In Pelikan check out the 140, 400, 400nn.

In MB check out the 12,14,22,24,32,34,220,221

 

You have lots of models to choose from. But some say the MB's are prone to cracking.

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Thank you Dick.

 

Tricnomistal...the '50's-65 400-400nn are not 'flex' pens....'flex' pens are super flex....they spread their tines wider than a semi-flex or maxi-semi-flex which are @ 3 X tine spread....just like your 100....when maxed....and a golden rule is never max your nib.......(outside the first time to see what flex it has.) Richard Binder's com is the bible of fountain pens, pretty pens, nibs and filling systems and good advice about inks...should take you three full days to read.

 

He has an article one must read.....he calls it something else...I call it 'How to bend/spring your nib....101." The more you max it the sooner it will spring.

Or as Jar says, "Every nib flexes....once."

 

 

  • Thanks for another good lesson! I've spent too little time learning about the differing amounts of springiness in nibs--what defines a nail, what defines semi-flex, what defines a wet noodle--so this is all good information.

 

 

:notworthy1: :thumbup: :puddle: .....don't waste your money on post '65 obliques unless you are left eye dominate and naturally cant your nib or are left handed.

 

 

  • Interesting to note: I actually am left-eye dominant (but right-handed), and I do tend to point my nibs to the left slightly as I write.

 

I've liked vintage German broad nibs the most. Really, I'd be repeating most of what Bill said.

 

Don't discount Montblancs. I recently got my hands on a 14 with an OBB nib, and that is a seriously sweet writer.

 

I watched a 221 with a B nib go on the bay for just 79 dollars. Seemed like a sweet deal.

 

The pelikan 140 can also be had with some great nibs.

 

In Pelikan check out the 140, 400, 400nn.

In MB check out the 12,14,22,24,32,34,220,221

 

You have lots of models to choose from. But some say the MB's are prone to cracking.

  • Hmm. I'll have to look more carefully at vintage MB's. I didn't think any would be in my price range. Good to know.

"A pen of quality is a writer's gold"

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  • Hmm. I'll have to look more carefully at vintage MB's. I didn't think any would be in my price range. Good to know.

 

You'll definitely find a few below the price of a new M400.

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You need to get an Adreas Lambrou book on fountain pens....mine is from '89 I got it cheap considering....but they are not cheap. I didn't know anything at all.....after a couple years I was still 97 1/2% ignorant.

I was at a live auction looking only for the 400nn in a lot...Pelikan BP&MP from '56 also....plus a MB ....that would drive the price up...because it was MB.....

Being Ignorant.....Knowing Only the 146/9 thought it some ugly pen not knowing of the pre-war 139.

 

I paid 170Euro, for the 400nn, BP&MP + etui, and the MB 234 1/2 Deluxe (52-54 only) semi-flex KOB...

 

I come to like it. Back when I was a 20 pen 'noobie' I checked the pens for balance. Best was the wider girth, standard slightly back heavy because of the brass guts of the piston MB-234 1/2, the medium long rolled gold trim very classy Geha 725 and the standard P-75. Each was different.

It took me some two years to finally rate my 400nn over my 400....but it was once rated in the top five for balance.

 

The MB 234 1/2 Deluxe is not one of the cheaper old MB's. It being rare having the Masterpiece clip and a different single cap band.....even then when I bought it 6 or so years ago, was worth @ $200 :unsure: :yikes: .....and now is worth $500 :huh: B) but I can match price with a German Pirate selling Buy Now on US Ebay....I'll let you have it for 'only' $900.

 

 

This was a pen I didn't want...having never seen anything like it as 'noobie' ....didn't understand at all....it being a refinement of the pre-war 139 for folks wanting a pen that didn't look like one of the torpedo shaped 146/9's. (Hell I had no idea what a 139 was much less how it looked.) Get that book....it will save it's price in knowing what the hell one is buying.

 

MB 234 1/2 Deluxe 1952-54 only. (When my computer died...some pictures were lost. Including others of this pen.) With a bit of gold polishing cloth, it polished up better than this.

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/234-1_zpslnowxatc.jpg

 

There are lots of very nice second tier MB pens...the 2XX and even the 3XX and are affordable....if you know what you are looking at....do get that book.

Or spend a lot of time copying pictures and comments out of the MB section.

 

I chased Geha, Pelikan and Osmia.....Soennecken and MB were just a bit north of my Osmia border.

 

The Geha 725 was designed to beat MB....there were some 2XX that were slightly similar. ...not though with the inlaid nib as far as I know. Many with semi- hooded nibs. Some 3xx also had semi-hooded nibs. My 320 is also a very sleek pen, but a nail of a half hooded nib...more nib to see than a semi-hooded....and that pen was very affordable.

 

I feel the Geha 725 did beat MB. I find it to be one of the finest classic pens I have. I keep saying I must take a picture of the clip. There are two slightly curved lines on it that makes it so classy.....so much better

 

One can find them for E 35-50-70 or so....one must be careful the inlaid nib is fully attached in it is impossible to repair if loose...from miss use. One can buy a new section for it occasional on German Ebay. The pen can/will develop a micro crack in the cap....or a good possibility. My 725 came with no micro crack...but developed one with in the first week. It is no problem...it is very thin....micro...you have to look for it. Great Balance....semi-flex nib. I knew of that reputation before buying.....would buy again....but all it comes in is black and gold. :rolleyes:

Geha 725 second picture with permission of Penboard.de.

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/geha1%20-%20Copy_zpstockjbgs.jpg

 

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o707/boboolson1/Goldschwing%20nib-2%20-%20Copy_zpslfjx1ael.jpg

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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