Most Low Maintenance, Reliable, Tough Fountain Pen?

[3nding]

Okay so let's say tomorrow production of fountain pens worldwide stops forever and no more pen servicing is available (very sad, I know) but you have a job in the government of an authoritarian country and you are forced to chose a fountain pen, and only that fountain pen, to do your job and if your pen breaks you are automatically tortured and sentenced to death, effective immediately (a, let's say, very very hypothetical scenario). Also you can't just quite your job or stage a coup so don't think about it .

 

What, in your experience as a fountain pen enthusiast, would be your top choice of pen to survive as long as possible (i.e. which pen offers the best combination of working without professional maintenance (changing the ink sac, parts getting stuck or breaking off) and not breaking because you dropped it, in the long term)?

 

P.S. It can be any type of filling mechanism. If it's a cartridge/converter fountain pen it would be preferable (for your life in that context) if cartridges for it are easily obtainable.

 

The Parker 51 Aerometric is obviously a popular answer, but I am curious about what else out there fits the bill.

Edited March 29, 2017 by 3nding

[jar]

Most anything. I see no reason any fountain pen should not last a century or two.

[linearM]

I would choose a Waterman eyedropper filler that had a nib with good tipping and no cracks in the cap. There simply can't be very much to go wrong.

[sandy101]

Diplomat Excellence A - cartidge convertor (always useful to have a back up) with a bomb proof metal construction.

 

There again, I have an MB 254 which is at least 60 years old, and still working, although I don't know if it has had any maintenance since. I also have a P45 that's 50 years old that's still working too.

[LizEF]

Okay so let's say tomorrow production of fountain pens worldwide stops forever and no more pen servicing is available (very sad, I know) but you have a job in the government of an authoritarian country and you are forced to chose a fountain pen, and only that fountain pen, to do your job and if your pen breaks you are automatically tortured and sentenced to death, effective immediately (a, let's say, very very hypothetical scenario). Also you can't just quite your job or stage a coup so don't think about it

 

Note to self: Avoid Canada. There's something in the water.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Any metal cartridge pen. They are great for using as spare axles of your skateboard.

One shouldn't practice Parkour or break dancing with a pen. Especially Parkour, your heirs will be upset.

Putting a any but a metal pen in one's pants pockets out side of Kaweco Sport will be illegal.

 

If one is going to drink or be mugged one should leave one's sturdy plastic pen locked up in the gun safe at home.

[Freddy]

Okay so let's say tomorrow production of fountain pens worldwide stops forever and no more pen servicing is available (very sad, I know) but you have a job in the government of an authoritarian country and you are forced to chose a fountain pen, and only that fountain pen, to do your job and if your pen breaks you are automatically tortured and sentenced to death, effective immediately (a, let's say, very very hypothetical scenario). Also you can't just quite your job or stage a coup so don't think about it .

 

What, in your experience as a fountain pen enthusiast, would be your top choice of pen to survive as long as possible (i.e. which pen offers the best combination of working without professional maintenance (changing the ink sac, parts getting stuck or breaking off) and not breaking because you dropped it, in the long term)?

 

P.S. It can be any type of filling mechanism. If it's a cartridge/converter fountain pen it would be preferable (for your life in that context) if cartridges for it are easily obtainable.

 

The Parker 51 Aerometric is obviously a popular answer, but I am curious about what else out there fits the bill.

 

OK! We gets a rOtring 600 with extra-fine nib..which we'll use to flay the deer we just took down.

 

And enjoy some venison sushi..but..not the sushi two-step..you don't want that in the bush.......

 

Fred

[Mercian]

Perhaps a Parker Vector in Stainless Steel, with the SS grip section & cap?

Its nib (also SS) is small and a 'nail', so that ought to last a while (and be able to survive at least a few instances of being dropped on to the carpet tiles at MiniLuv) too.

 

Inked with either Pelikan 4001 Blue-black, Rohrer & Klingner Salix, or ESS Registrars Ink.

Just in case a Zombie Apocalypse breaks out and threatens ink production in the realms governed (with ceaseless wisdom and benevolent love for his children, the people) by our Dear Leader.

A preference for iron-gall inks suggests that having one's pen made from stainless steel might be eminently sensible.

 

I suppose that those working at MiniTru might prefer to use 4001 Königsblau rather than the iron-galls of MiniLuv, for whenever it becomes necessary for them to correct the Infallible Record of past events.

[irrigger]

Esterbrook dipless with any of the available inkwells.

[tonybelding]

I'd vote for any C/C pen that accepts a standard Schmidt K5 converter and uses a standard #6 nib in a modular nib/feed/housing assembly. So that includes: Bexley, Edison, Franklin-Christoph, Monteverde, Karas Kustoms, Tactile Turn, Taccia, and probably a pretty long list of others.

 

If I had to get more specific, the Karas Kustoms Ink with the anodized aluminum body is very rugged. Get one with a spare nib unit and a spare converter or two, and you'd be set for life. Even better if you get a cheap sonic cleaner as well, so even if you use "high maintenance" inks, you'll always be able to clean it up.

[praxim]

I have pens over ninety years old that were of middling but not special quality in their day. From handling corresponding pens today, I see no reason why they too should not last a long time. Given you are not buying vintage, you will not have sacs to deal with. A C/C or piston or eyedropper pen will be fine.

 

Whatever you choose, I propose you avoid dropping it.

[ENewton]

I have been writing almost exclusively with fountain pens for more than twenty years, have several pens that are decades older than I am, and have never had a pen break.

[Buzz_130]

Parker "51" Flighter - already stood the test of time, and it will last several more lifetimes.

 

If I had to really pick a pen with your condition, I'd go with a Fisher Space Pen. Already combat-tested, lasted in the toughest environments, and just about guaranteed to write in any condition you could imagine.

 

Buzz

[parkergeo]

Perhaps a Parker Vector in Stainless Steel, with the SS grip section & cap?

 

 

A Vector was the first thing that popped into my head as well, probably since I have an early example that has survived college, grad school, kids, four moves to four different states and thirty years on the job. Used it as a signing pen for some documents just today.

[langere]

Pelikan 215. Modern piston fillers don't really ever die...much less metal bodied ones.

 

Erick

[sciumbasci]

What isn't implemented can't be broken.

I'd rule out C/C because converters eventually wear out, and cartridges loosen up.

 

Piston fillers, although robust, have moving parts.

 

Indian eyedropper is the only way. Probably ASA Sniper, Galactic or that Milky white one (Popsicle? Porus?)

[amk]

Two choices.

 

Lamy 2000. It's tough. It's also a pen I know how to take apart and put back together again.

 

Any Indian acrylic (not ebonite, too fragile) eyedropper. Nothing to go wrong.

 

But actually I would probably go all out for reliability and just get a packet of 100 steel nibs and use one of my handmade nibholders. As long as this hypothetical bendy-fruit republic doesn't have termite or woodworm, I should be okay...

[praxim]

Looking back over the opening post, I see that implicitly a 65 year-old pen with a sac is acceptable. If that is so, buy anything, really. Of my previous advice, I stand by "don't drop it".

[tonybelding]

Lamy 2000. It's tough. It's also a pen I know how to take apart and put back together again.

 

The Lamy 2000 is dainty compared with the Karas Kustoms Ink.

 

The cap clutch on my 2000 is kind of weak. I haven't lost the cap yet, but I suspect it's only a matter of time. However, a couple of days ago I stuck the 2000 in the pocket of my cargo pants. I didn't think it would be subjected to any great stress there, but when I took it out later the cap had become jammed onto the pen, and I found an obvious ding in the finial. I'm not sure how that happened, and I don't see any permanent damage, but it doesn't inspire confidence.

[BillH]

Much as I'd like to agree with the Pelikan M215, I'm going to go all the way back to (my) basics and say a Sheaffer School Pen and a couple extra carts. A good store of Pelikan 4001 BlBlk. When the cart mouths finally get too sloppy, years in the future, my grandsons can eyedropper them.

 

Substitute a No Nonsense if you prefer fat flat tops