Diy Stub With Grit Pads?

[Honeybadgers]

I've made multiple great writing stubs out of steel nibs by clipping the tip with pliers and then using 1600 grit sandpaper, micro mesh, followed by mylar.

 

All have very sharp, nice line variation, and it's easy to soften the lines by simply rolling the nib a bit while you're on the 1600.

 

This was a knox that I mangled early on in my pen days by removing with pliers. I nipped the tip with a pair of pliers (before and after ensuring the tines were still straight,) started on 1600 grit by holding it absolutely vertical (didn't want an oblique) and smoothing it out. Then I rotated it down towards a writing position, without rolling the edges, side to side, with some vertical "downward swipe" strokes to smooth out any up and down bite it may have, then rolled it side to side VERY lightly to take off any sharp corners. After that, I moved to micro mesh, very gentle, smooth strokes, writing S curves and drawing the entire alphabet in the same little circle. I stopped there because I don't like glassy smooth nibs, and much prefer a hair of feedback, but mylar would be your next step for a glassy smooth writer.

 

This nib writes well on a wide ranga feed down to a narrow jinhao feed.

 

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/popnsplat/20170423_173146_zpsrevwhjwm.jpg?t=1492907955

[ManofKent]

I've made multiple great writing stubs out of steel nibs by clipping the tip with pliers and then using 1600 grit sandpaper, micro mesh, followed by mylar.

 

All have very sharp, nice line variation, and it's easy to soften the lines by simply rolling the nib a bit while you're on the 1600.

 

 

I suppose any nib would work for this as the tipping is snipped off - it's certainly an idea if my tip grinding attempts don't work

[Honeybadgers]

Definitely not a smart idea with a gold nib (gold will wear away on paper), but most steel stubs out there aren't tipped anyways, and I've been writing with that stub for 6 months and it hasn't had any issues at all.

[sodul]

Definitely not a smart idea with a gold nib (gold will wear away on paper), but most steel stubs out there aren't tipped anyways, and I've been writing with that stub for 6 months and it hasn't had any issues at all.

 

 

If the nib has a broken tip making it usable as a stub is a better option than trowing it to the trash. If it is an expensive nib, north of $100 it might be a good idea to send it to one of the few nib repair places rather than making it a home made stub as it will definitely wear away quickly. A third option is to sell it for the price of gold at some gold place, but that would come in the $6-$10 range considering gold is $41/g, a #5 nib is about 0.25g, #6 is around 0.44g and 14k is 56% gold. ... but you could always have the fun of using the stub before that third option.

[Honeybadgers]

Broken tine, maybe try it. Mangled/gnarly, send 'er to a nibmeister.

[frogbaby]

Here is a very detailed post by dneal that has multiple photos to illustrate the process of nib grinding.

https://fpgeeks.com/forum/showthread.php/10567-So-you-wanna-grind-yer-own-nibs

 

can someone help me here with an answer to a question raised by the above linked post in fpgeeks ?

 

after the first and second cuts, the poster references this photo (before he goes on the the 3rd cut which produces a crisp italic line)

 

 

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa163/roomdog/Pens/Grinding%20Tutorial/Grind2_zps95d9a793.jpeg

am i correct in my assumption that this shape would, if not cut into a crisp italic, be a classic stub with a rounded, "stock" vertical but a newly cut thin horizontal ?

 

he says at the very end of the tutorial that: Here's the "finished" product, and the pen is now essentially a stub.

 

but isn't the stub at the end of the second cut as pictured above ?

 

if you merely flatten the top and bottom of a rounded nib, are you not creating a stub ?