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Looking For Suggestions On What To Do With A Too-Wet M1000 Medium Nib.


glorfindel

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Well, you could have your pen adjusted so that it does write as wet as it does now. Another thing is to write with a real light hand, I have to adjust my writing to fit my 2 M1000's. Writing with a light hand makes the nibs write a lot drier.

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For me it is the wetter the nib the better it is. I really love writing with wetter nibs. In fact I sometime adjust nibs to make them wetter.

Khan M. Ilyas

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Reduce the width between the tines by kind of scissoring the tines one over the under. Then, you'll need to realign the pen. My m1000 is still wet (7/10), but not insanely so, just tastefully so.

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Pelikans tend to be wet writers in general. I'd say try a drier ink. When I got my first one, a 1990s era M400 Brown Tortoise, I had thought to use it for drawing, and so put in what I thought would be a perfect drawing ink -- Iroshizuku Yama-guri. But that ink ended up being way too wet for the pen. OTOH, I pulled out an old sample of Noodler's Walnut (which I had given up on because I thought the ink was way too dry. And the combination was PERFECT -- the ink tamed the firehose nib (it's an F but writes like some B nibs I've seen) and in the wet pen the ink flow was much better.

OTOH, I had to have the IM nib on an M200 tweaked, because even with an iron gall ink the pen was a gusher....

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know -- when I bought my M1000 some time ago, it came with a medium nib. The nib was far too smooth to control, and wet like a mop. I had plans of having it tweaked, but I ran across a chance to purchase a spare F nib. With the F nib, my pen writes like a very wet M to B on any other pen. Wet, but no skipping, and actually usable. Compared to some of my other over-sized pens (Delta DV, M149, etc.) the M1000 is not overly large. Just nice - and so very nicely made.

 

Anybody want to buy a spare M1000 medium nib?

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  • 5 months later...

I know this doesn't help but I love my m1000f! I always thought fountain pens ought to write like this, especially with too many undersaturated inks in the market.

 

Not for cramping alot of content into small spaces though. Not a pen for Japanese girls trying to squeeze asian characters with clearly defined lines into A5 notebooks with 5mm squares and still have room for pasting cute stickers around the written text.

 

This pen needs to soar.

 

I have learnt to write bigger, and probably faster. M1000 isn't a frugal rollerball. It is a Pelikan, and a m1000.

 

M1000 broad is certainly winking at me, I choose to believe.

Edited by minddance
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Pelikan has been making dry inks probably before they made fountains, before '29 and the piston.

They were and are an office supply company.

So Pelikan makes nibs and feeds for it's own inks............not for Waterman inks.

IG inks are dry.

MB makes nibs for it's inks......Lamy too, Waterman made a thinner nib, for a wetter ink.

I don't find MB to be all that wet...but they now make a wide nib.

There are more than enough inks that are dry enough....no Noodlers, nor Diamine.

 

Get it ground down to an F or even EF.....

Perhaps the size encourages you to use more pressure....in holding the pen harder in it is so big. That can't be cured. Thin the nib.

 

The classic tripod....10-2-6 often ='s Death Grip....especially if the deadly Kung Fu Thumb Pinch is used. the 10&2 presses down...= heavy Hand.

 

I use the 'forefinger up' grip, an automatic light grip....takes three minutes and the un-posted Oversize 1000 is big enough to use that grip. The un-posted 800 is too small. The 'forefinger up' works fine with a posted, 600/400 and 140, they are long enough.

 

Takes three minutes to learn & two sheets of paper...no more hand cramps, no more pain in the nail joint of the middle finger. An automatic light hold.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I havent tried an IG ink with the M1000 but thats worth a try. Even with an Edelstein ink and a very light touch my M1000 is too wet for my normal paper and feathers horribly. If that doesnt work Ill have it ground down again.

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Maybe Diamine Damson, Grey, Tyrian Purple? Herbin Cafe des Iles. Rohrer&K Scabiosa. Jentle Tokiwa Matsu too, perhaps, and Iroshizuku Yama Budo, speaking from my experience.

 

I eyedropper-filled the pen and did not prime the feed. It was not as wet as m1000 reputed to be.

 

Edelstein is actually rather wet. I haven't tried every Edelstein but Smoky Quartz turned out rather dark in my m1000f.

 

If I filled the pen normally, by dipping into the ink bottle, it would be a dip pen if I wrote immediately.

 

If I allowed it time to settle for a few days it was alot drier.

 

I did these, and filled with Scabiosa and wrote on Rhodia with a light hand as I always do, it was not wet. I would not do it again because it was dry and thus not enjoyable for me.

 

Of course, no Herbin except Cafe.

Edited by minddance
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I havent tried an IG ink with the M1000 but thats worth a try. Even with an Edelstein ink and a very light touch my M1000 is too wet for my normal paper and feathers horribly. If that doesnt work Ill have it ground down again.

 

You have a major paper problem.....cheap paper is feathering in ambush.

What cheap paper are you using?.......Ink Jet paper is a very big NO No never!.

Moleskine requires skinny nib and very dry ink....in it's pure ball point paper.

But some folks continue to abuse their inks with it.

 

I have run into 'adequate' 80 g paper....Rhoda is left out of that category, in it's coated well, but I prefer 90g laser paper as a minimum. Yes, 90g laser cost twice as much per ream than regular copy paper.............but you need to have a supply of good to better papers, just like having a supply of different inks.

 

If you can afford the 1000 you can afford better paper than at your work place....just don't stick your paper in their copier....unless it's for your stuff you want to mark up afterwards and not have it feather. Open up the copier, put the amount of your good paper you need in it and poor paper problem solved.

 

Poor students may have a real gripe about poor paper, not 1000's owners. So have a couple cups of Starbucks less and buy decent fountain pen friendly paper.

 

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink and in that order. You can add 1/3 to how much pressure you use. It's not rocket science so I can have as many 1/3ds as I need.

 

Mulrich, if you state which Continent you live on, we can help you find good to better paper. The US has nice paper. (in it's not metric it's not exportable as it could well be)...some is cheap, like Staples paper from Brazil. There are a number of good Euro papers if you live there.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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The paper I use most is a Staples M legal pad. Its not the greatest paper but it generally performs well and isnt nearly as spendy as Rhodia-like papers in the US. Its a nice balance between price and performance. A few pens/inks will feather a little with the paper but the M1000/Aventurine ink is terrible. Im always looking for better options though so Im open to suggestions.

 

Ive held off on most international papers because I like the US letter size but Im close to wholly embracing A4 (I cant find any US letter size paper I really like thats also FP friendly). Anytime I order from a European vendor with free shipping I add a couple A4 tablets. I probably should just switch to A4.

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Reduce the width between the tines by kind of scissoring the tines one over the under. Then, you'll need to realign the pen. My m1000 is still wet (7/10), but not insanely so, just tastefully so.

 

I have tried this as a remedy for wetter writing pens, and it often works. Also, pressing the nib towards the feed might help too.

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