I've somewhere about 70-80 mostly European pens. Most by far are vintage pre'70 to some '30's....and then semi-vintage....pre'98 to '80's. I have more semi-vintage from Pelikan than anything else.
How I ended up with so many Pelikan pens I don't know. Three are new, a 200, a 215 (I needed a nice springy 200's nib and was never ever going to buy a 200...in I had so many 400's.) and a 605. The rest are used....some 4 from '90's.....a 400, a 381 and two Celebries...though they could be a bit later....and a W.Germany 200. There is also a 150. Those are all 'true' regular flex nibs.
Nibs I have learned to like...nibs that are a tad better often with shading inks than semi-flex.
Semi/maxi-semi-flex nibs are sometimes too wet, and swallow shading unless matched well to ink and paper.
Vintage pens....120 regular flex, 100n-superflex of the Easy Full Flex....first stage of super flex (Minewhas the green ink window so is post War...and I was shocked both the 100n and Ibis were still made until 1954. The other Pelikans are mix of semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex.....(Which was 'normal' in that era. I have MB, Osmia, Geha and Pelikan in those two flexes.)
I ended up with many more 400's than I ever expected to own. A D nib,....in semi-flex OM, OB, B in tortoise, two 140's OF and OB. A 400nn in maxi-semi-flex OF, a 500 in maxi OBBB...a real signature pen...one needs 2/3 a page to sign. and a maxi .... Ibis...gold nib. I'd not expected the gold nib nor that it would be maxi-semi-flex.
If I went hunting in my boxes I might find another Pelikan or two.
Only three are tortoise, a '90's 400, a '54' transitional, and the 500.
Now that was a fancy pen I never even realized existed in it was so far over my normal max budget of E100. I got it for E150, when the money for my Grail pen burnt a hole in my pocket.
I've not had a single problem with any of them.
Could well be that problem pens had been ditched eon's ago....and never came to sale.
Pelikan has a illegal life time repair of pens program. So are solidly made to prevent use of that.
If one or two were a bit misaligned tined....I fixed that with out a seconds thought. That can happen with old used pens.
In that is not a problem once one has done it the second time.
I've even banged a pen my self.....my oh my....me....I actually banged a nib a bit and knocked it out of alignment. 5 seconds later it was writing great.
What other problem can there be....well the '30's pens could need a new cork....or those before the better plastic gasket of '55 could use a new gasket. 90-70 years is a long time for 1.0 plastic gasket to last.
Some folks are shocked there is no American Bump Under tipping on '30-65 nibs...that they are stubbish flat bottomed. That is not a fault but a plus.
Had I problems with my Pelikans I'd had a bigger collection of Osmia or even a collection of Soennecken pens.
I do like the semi-vintage and like the vintage nibs even more. I do not like the modern nibs on the 400/600. The 200's nib is still good.
I think they on the 200 are springy 'true' regular flex......there are those who say they are now more nailish or semi-nail.
That I don't know in I only have two modern ones.
Sargetalon would know...
Pelikan don't need to be taken apart to be greased once every three years. Folks that take their Pelikans apart like a Twisbi or Ahab.....do have problems with Pelikans which are not made to do such.
Though the 800/1000 are easier to take apart....for those who are so AR.
Good post Lam1.
Piston pens are harder to make than spout only CC pens.
There are occasional problems mentioned here....and the advice is to send it to Chartpack if under warrantee or Pelikan it's self when not. That is not all that often.
Yep....modern 400/600 nibs are fatter than semi-vintage....fatter than Japanese....buy a 200's, semi-vintage or vintage nib for them. I have a '54 400's semi-flex B nib on my 605.