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Stub Nib Issues!


siamackz

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Just bought a 1.1 stub for my TWSBI 580AL. When I checked it at the store I dipped it in ink and it worked well. When I came home and filled the pen with ink, the stub started skipping dramatically! I figured it was an issue with the ink flow because the tines were touching when viewed through a loupe. So, I did a little tinkering and got it to open a bit wider. But it got worse if anything. That's when I began to think that it's probably baby's bottom. When viewed through the loop there seems to be sort of inverted valley between the insides of the tip.

 

I haven't started working on the pen as yet. I want to rule out all other possibilities before I hit the micromesh. Do you think it's baby's bottom?

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Did you flush the pen before filling with ink? If not, that's your first step.

 

We can't see the pen, so some photographs would help us to diagnose the probable cause of the issue. Before you do any work on the pen, contact TWSBI customer service for help

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Yup, flushed it good. The nib works suddenly and stops suddenly. It works at a 30 degree angle but not at 45. Also, when I press down on the nib, I can literally see ink flowing to the end of the nib and then stopping just short of the nib point before coming back up!

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As an earlier poster said, it's hard to say without pictures. Aside from baby bottom, one possibility is that nib slit is too wide, so capillary action isn't enough to keep the ink flowing to the tip. Another common problem with stub nibs is rotating the nib as you write so that both tines are not continuously in contact with the paper. When I first started using stub nibs I had that problem but assumed incorrectly that there was a problem with the nib.

These are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph. What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives everything its value.--Thomas Paine, "The American Crisis", 1776

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Just bought a 1.1 stub for my TWSBI 580AL. When I checked it at the store I dipped it in ink and it worked well. When I came home and filled the pen with ink, the stub started skipping dramatically! I figured it was an issue with the ink flow because the tines were touching when viewed through a loupe. So, I did a little tinkering and got it to open a bit wider. But it got worse if anything. That's when I began to think that it's probably baby's bottom. When viewed through the loop there seems to be sort of inverted valley between the insides of the tip.

 

I haven't started working on the pen as yet. I want to rule out all other possibilities before I hit the micromesh. Do you think it's baby's bottom?

Is it a pen store? Why not take it back to the store and ask them to make it write? One of the benefits of buying from a brick-and-mortar store should be good service and products that work.

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As an earlier poster said, it's hard to say without pictures. Aside from baby bottom, one possibility is that nib slit is too wide, so capillary action isn't enough to keep the ink flowing to the tip. Another common problem with stub nibs is rotating the nib as you write so that both tines are not continuously in contact with the paper. When I first started using stub nibs I had that problem but assumed incorrectly that there was a problem with the nib.

I would agree with Dr Gracie that a stub can be position sensitive.

 

One must be careful to keep both tines in contact with the paper.

My daily writer pens all sport stub nibs of one size or another. I have a tendency to rotate my pen's section slightly to the left, so I must constantly re-position my grip to keep the stub in contact.

 

If you write in a slower & more deliberate fashion, it is easier to make this slight correction. The tines of the stub have to be close enough to allow for capillary action to take place, to allow ink to flow, yet far enough not to be touching. I'm assuming the stub's tines are aligned.

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Could be the tines are too separated now. Or could be you're rotating your hand as you write and lifting a tine off the page.

Or could be a partially blocked feed, depending on what inks you'd run through before and what put in now. Or could be a surface tension problem and ink isn't coming down the feed - need a TWSBI person to consider that.

Or could be baby bottom. But before you do sanding surgery on the nib, take it back to the store and see if you can exchange it.

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Thanks all!

 

Rotating my hand - I thought this might be a possibility, but even a simple straight line is tough, I need to try it a few times and then suddenly one stroke will come through. It's so hard to write with it that it cannot be my hand's rotation as the only problem. Especially considering there are time when almost 2-3 lines come out without any skipping (while I'm not being over conscious of how I write).

 

Tines too far apart - I adjusted this so they're back close. Seen through a loupe, the tines now become narrower from the breather hole to the tip. Tines are aligned too.

 

Return to store - bought it on an international trip

 

Feed - I switched feeds between this nib and my TWSBI fine, both feeds work on the fine while the stub has an issue with either feed.

 

Ink - The iroshizuku ink is helping it v/s Sheaffer script or Sailor Jentle that was in it earlier. I left the iroshizuku all night, woke up now and tried the pen and its writing 75% of the time, with 25% skips. And, if I dip the nib in ink, it will write perfectly till the ink runs out from the nib (that's why I couldn't tell an issue at the store).

 

Angle of writing - I just checked again and it doesn't matter whether I write closer to 90degrees to paper or 45degrees. The issue persists.

 

The issue, again, is hard starting and lots of skipping. Does the above sound like baby's bottom? I am starting to think not.

 

I have a 60x loupe (I know, bad purchase!!), and so the depth of field is so bad that Id never get a photo in focus so share with you!

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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Why did you switch the feed?

 

Are you flushing the pen between ink changes? You've used 3 inks in a short time and 2 of them often don't get along well with other inks.

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I switched feeds to check if the feed was an issue, but then switched back.

 

Disassembled the pen and cleaned each time between ink changes.

 

Also, the other nib (fine) works perfectly with all the inks.

 

Present status is that the nib is working the best it has so far, with iroshizuku ink, but still shows very hard starts and skips 25-30% after starting.

Edited by siamackz

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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As I can't see the pen and can't see what is wrong, I suggest that you contact TWSBI and ask them for help before doing anything else.

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Is this a piston filler or a converter? Might there be air trapped in the system before the ink reaches the feed? The nib looks OK to me - it's the ink flow itself that seems to be the problem.

a fountain pen is physics in action... Proud member of the SuperPinks

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Yes it's a piston filler, it's a TWSBI 580AL. But the pen works super consistently with the other nib - TWSBI fine nib.

 

I agree that is seems like the ink flow is an issue. That why earlier I tried opening the tines up a bit. But that didn't help.

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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Wait a minute, do I understand correctly? You see the problem only after leaving the pen uncapped for a while? I think if you're not going to continue writing, you should put the cap back on.

These are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph. What we obtain too cheap, we esteem too lightly: it is dearness only that gives everything its value.--Thomas Paine, "The American Crisis", 1776

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Nope, I have the problem in general. In the writing sample I was just demonstrating how it started even after keeping uncapped for a minute.

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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... there are time when almost 2-3 lines come out without any skipping (while I'm not being over conscious of how I write).

 

 

 

First. If it's still skipping, do a flush. Put a few drops of dishsoap or ammonia in water, then flush a few times with plain water. That's usually the problem, and that was the problem with your Kaweco.

 

Next, really consider your hand position. That's often the problem, and probably the current problem with your Sailor. Rest the pen on your hand so the pen is at a 45-60 degree angle to the paper, grip the pen loosely while keeping both tines on the paper, then run the pen across the paper. From what you've been writing here, there will be a line. Then practice keeping both tines on the page while writing. People often turn the wrist or the pen slightly while writing, that lifts a tine off the page and can cause skipping, starting problems, line problems, etc.

Edited by cattar
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If it were me experiencing this problem, my next step would now be to draw up a little bit of water with a bit of dish washing liquid added. Then push it back out - all of this is seat-of-the-pants, mind you - and then try again if it would write.

a fountain pen is physics in action... Proud member of the SuperPinks

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First. If it's still skipping, do a flush. Put a few drops of dishsoap or ammonia in water, then flush a few times with plain water. That's usually the problem, and that was the problem with your Kaweco.

 

Next, really consider your hand position. That's often the problem, and probably the current problem with your Sailor. Rest the pen on your hand so the pen is at a 45-60 degree angle to the paper, grip the pen loosely while keeping both tines on the paper, then run the pen across the paper. From what you've been writing here, there will be a line. Then practice keeping both tines on the page while writing. People often turn the wrist or the pen slightly while writing, that lifts a tine off the page and can cause skipping, starting problems, line problems, etc.

I will definitely be more careful about my hand rolling! I keep reminding myself to write with my arm and not wrist... More practice needed!

 

The Kaweco, by the way is showing the same problem again. So I disassembled and flushed and switched from J Herbin Perle Noir to Sailor Jentle. The pen is writing wetter now. Lets see how it does in a couple of days.

 

The stub has been washed several times. This same pen works absolutely fine when I switch a fine nib on it. The hand rolling could have been an issue if skipping happened only at the ends of the page. Also, there are times when I will try making angle changes at the exact same spot on the page and it won't write no matter what! Then it suddenly writes.

 

The only thing we haven't explored is 'baby's bottom'

 

What are some symptoms I could look for? Should it write when I put pressure (because that doesn't work).

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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You've had a similar problem with 3 pens, probably it's ink or feed or surface tension or hand. From what you write, it seems most like buildup in the feed & hand rolling.

Does the fine nib work with the new feed?

Seriously consider getting waterman serenity blue ink, use a pen flush on all 3 pens, the choose 1 pen, fill it with waterman blue and write with it for a week to really get a feel for tat pen and practice keeping both tines on the page.

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