Does Anybody Have An Ink Library?

[Inkedinker]

I have decided to do an ink library kind of thing for my own reference on 3x5 cards. I am a huge fan of blues so I imagine the samples I have will be blue based. I have only bought one bottle of blue ink yet I have a few dozen samples. I can't really decide what I would like to use again or to use them all and then decide. Not really sure if there is a right way. My pen collection ranges from vintage to modern and just about everything in between so I obviously won't use all the pens on the one sample. I usually use my workhorse pens for new inks and colors (Karas Kustom and Lamy Safari with1.1mm nib).

 

I was just curious if anybody else has done this and how it turned out or if there any suggestions.

[ac12]

Mine is in two 3 ring binders.

 

Binder #1 is the large ink samples.

At the SF Pen Show, they had several hundred inks to sample.

So I have a single line for ALL the inks I could sample. Just the name of the ink.

With the 2015 and 2016 shows, I probably have over 700 entries in my binder.

 

The binder is in 2 parts

- part 1 is all the green inks together, so I don't have to go looking for the green inks.

- part 2 is by brand. So I can look for what color brand X and color Y is.

 

I've used it several times to look for the ink to match a specific color.

IOW, it is my reference to buy new inks.

 

 

Binder #2 is my ink log.

3 sections

- section 1, when I ink up a pen, I write the date, pen, nib and ink

- section 2, for each pen, I write a line with whatever ink I used in that pen. This way over time I can see how pen Y writes with different inks.

- section 3, for each ink, I have a page with 4 different papers that I write with my two sampling pens with XF and M nibs. This is to show how the ink looks on different papers with the constant of a standard pen that is used for sampling all the inks.

Behind that is a page with a line from each pen that I inked with that ink. So I can see how ink X looks with different pens.

 

This is in a 2 inch ring binder, and I have reached the point that I have to divide it into 2 binders.

 

Using a ring binder lets me reorganize the binder as I think of a new way to do the binder, which I have done.

And to divide the ink log binder into two binders as it expands with more inks and pens.

Edited November 22, 2016 by ac12

[Inkedinker]

Nice!!! Since I am just starting my ink fetish, I was hoping to keep a few notes for what pen I used and a few notes of how I liked it. Maybe later in the library add additional notes of other pens used. For instance, I liked the way the Caran d'Ache Delicate Green looked on paper, but much better preferred the way my old Esterbrook J felt on the paper with it rather than the way my Pelikan M400 Tortoise does.

 

I just realized I'm the last drop of that sample so I want to document it. Issue is, there is barely a drop or two in the sample bottle so I'm gonna have to eyedrop it into a pen to make a sample

[OCArt]

I have decided to do an ink library kind of thing for my own reference on 3x5 cards.

 

When I first started I also used 3x5 cards but I soon realized that they do not accurately show how the ink performs on the papers I use the most. AC12 (the post above) seems to have a great system that I might adopt.

[Ada]

I don't have an ink library, but after reading ac12's post, I wish I did! Instead, I have a disorganized ink notebook, which has pages for some of my pens with names of some of the inks I've used in them, pages for some of my inks with the names of some of the pens I've used those inks in, some pages testing proportions of ink mixes, and a bunch of pages with names of pens and the ink in them when I was contemplating switching out inks in multiple pens. None have dates. I think a binder, a folder with loose pages, or cards would be a much better choice than a notebook for keeping entries organized. I suggest Ac12's system; it sounds very logical and useful.

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

I keep a set of ink folios which contain samples of a given ink on an array of papers from an array of pens. Those folios develop over time, and show my preferences adventures.

 

When I started contributing Ink Reviews I used some pen+paper combos that were not up my street, which caused me to broaden my scope of appreciation - especially the narrow nibs.

 

I keep a set of swab samples plus quick written samples on uniform small sheets of copy/print paper. (Off-cuts from salvaging reams of Legal format to A4.) Those can be done quickly; and can be duplicated, so I have samples of the same ink in the Dark Blue range and the Blue-Black range, and Bright-Eyed Blues in the Turquoise and the Blue range. Highly malleable inks, such as R&K Scabiosa and Sailor rikyu-cha and Pelikan 4001 Brown, appear in more than a few ranges.

 

Also included are inks that I've tinkered with, when by dilution or adding surfactant. And don't ask about the inks that I've blended, such as Gal-Lexi.

 

Those samples function as Index entries (Library card catalogue) which point to the more extensive ink folios, which in turn allow me to select the most promising pen+paper combo/s to use with an ink, whether on purpose or on a whim.

 

Also, consider the pens to be used for benchmarking an ink.

 

The inky seas do not have borders - rather an infinite horizon. May a collection of samples become your compass rose.

 

Bye,

S1

__ __

See also

> Ink Sample Book https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/248422-creating-an-ink-sample-book/?p=2714269

> A Better Dip NIb https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/246789-a-better-dip-nib/?p=2690628

> OOTT Summary https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/196998-one-of-the-ten-blue-inks/

> Ink Swatches https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/314957-ink-swatches/?p=3726789

Edited November 22, 2016 by Sandy1

[ac12]

Start sooner rather than later, as it is a b!tch to catch up. I still have a lot of my own inks that I bought and have to catch up on, and get them into my binder. It only gets worse . . . as you get more and more inks that have to be logged. Then it becomes a chore . . . and I/you don't want to do it.

 

I started with the ring binder for #1 and 2, and as luck would have it, I reorganized the ink log/sample binders several times. So having it in a binder let me reorganize, whereas I could not reorganize if I had used a bound notebook.

[PS104]

There are so many variables when cataloging inks that you use. The pens you use, the nibs, the papers you use, temperature, humidity, age of the ink, etc, etc.

I use JonRo's database that can be downloaded on FPN. You can navigate between pens and inks. With the inks I rely on the Ink Review forum. I can copy and paste pictures of the ink, a link to the review of the ink and can insert any notes of my own. It gives me a ballpark impression of the ink and it is also a library of the inks I have.

[ac12]

Problem with linking to ink reviews is where the image is stored.

 

IF the image is uploaded and stored on FPN, I would NOT rely on the color. I have uploaded several times, and NONE of the times did the image displayed in FPN on my calibrated monitor match the inked paper in front of me. When I checked the original photograph file that I uploaded, when viewed on my monitor, the color was reasonably close. So my conclusion is that the mechanism that FPN uses to store uploaded images distorts the colors. Maybe that is a data compression issue, I have no idea.

 

If the image is uploaded to a photo hosting site, it seems there is a greater likelihood of having more accurate colors.

[Inkedinker]

AC12, have you noticed any color fading?

I recently found out somebody at work was also a fan of fountain pens and inks. He said he started with a poster board he hung on his wall in his home office (no windows in the room) and as he rebought inks, he noticed a fade. But he also said it could be ink recipes varying as well.

[Bo Bo Olson]

There are some US index cards that are very, very good. I looked a bit for what ever they were some 5-7 years ago....but didn't find any in Virginia.....didn't look hard enough.

There might be some in Europe but I've not run any down.

 

A plastic index card box is a must.....and having it On Top of the Desk also.

With the box in a drawer.... a pen is quickly inked,...out of sight out of mind.

 

First one needs a good selection of known good and better papers. Some companies will sell you sample sheets. Others may be swapped for in Pass it Forward or Members helping members.

 

Then I suggest in Nail/semi-nail, EF and B, in 'true' regular flex F&M.

Then Semi-flex....B and OB...in they are different. F and OF. I see OB to be more of interest than OF.

'True' regular flex and nail/semi-nails will be drier so shade easier than semi-flex.

 

Be aware semi-flex "will" be on the whole vintage German pens and you can unless you buy Osmia, be working only on luck to if your nib is semi-flex or maxi-semi-flex...no so much a worry if only testing inks.

 

You need at least one superflex pen....the lowest 'level' easy full flex will do. An Ahab with an 'Ahab Mod' will do for that "flex."

Looks like six-seven pens...to test ink and paper.

 

Once you have tested inks and papers to know good ones....you have an idea which to use to test any new pens.

 

I know you just got a semi-nail White Tortoise Pelikan....I don't remember what width it is.. Please do remember it will be 1/2 a width wider than semi-vintage or vintage....when you are looking at a difference in ink between an F and say an M.....if it is modern or semi-vintage might give you a different result. What ever width it is, it will be a Fat modern one.

 

Japanese will blow any 'system' of width to ink to paper all to hell. Number 1, they are skinnier nibs than marked.....and you have to compare them to semi-vintage where they may be a bit narrower; to modern fat nibs, where they can be at least a width different. An EF western, will on the whole be lighter than a wider nib.

I expect an ink to dance best in F-M-B...often F&M are best.

 

Number 2, narrow nibs need a supersaturated ink to be seen....and don't shade well.

 

Sandy 1, has about a set of pens she mostly uses that are the same. She is after ink, on a set of 'common' good, but not super expensive nor super hard to find papers. That is what one wants for the inks.

For papers....the same pens....a set of 6-10 or so well chosen inks. There is nothing to say you can't subtract and add an ink or two.

 

Which inks are reputed to be dry...Pelikan 4001 for example....Waterman back in the older days, was a wet ink. Noodlers is arc paper....Noah isn't the only one renting space. (some are not as wet as others)

 

Sigh...back when I was newer.... I tried a 15 assorted nib width and flex look at inks and papers.

I had too few inks.....I had way, way too few papers.....and cleaning up 15 pens from the same ink...every time....killed that after the second try. 7 died, then 5.

Finally 3 was what was done....good enough paper, not good enough.

 

So you are going to have to have three files; one for nibs, one for inks, one for papers. It might well be worth while to write on the front of that file, what exactly you plan to do.

In as far as I can see one size don't fit all; in you are after 3 different products. Nib, paper, ink.

 

You are going to be cleaning a lot of pens....screw out piston pens can be done near as fast as a CC pen if you know how. Piston pens has more chance of getting semi-flex. Semi-vintage 'true' regular flex can be had in fast cleaning CC pens.

 

Yesterday, I was looking at a bunch of really not organized samples of inks on this and that papers. On one paper, semi-flex F- EF was good.....the superflex was horrible. So unexpected.

 

For every two inks you buy....buy a ream or 1/2 ream or a box of good or better papers.

 

Once I was gung ho....at least three pens, 4-6 papers and a new ink.

Now, what ever pen is empty....often look for a 'true' regular flex with it's normal spring....don't care if F or M....if it's semi-flex....that's ok too.

Open a file, see if there is space to scribble a single line on some of the papers...good or not? Might grab 2-3 sheets of pretty good to better papers and take a better look.

 

Most important is the good index card and the plastic box always on the desk in ready reach.

I wonder which purple ink that is.? I only have @ 8....iI ain't the out of production C'dA Storm. Amethyst.

 

My two cents worth.....Southworth papers are well worth buying....they are good in some cases good to better papers. They are not grail paper. They are a combo paper.

 

The less you have to do with papers that say laser and ink jet the better. It has to be a compromise paper to use both.

Ink Jet paper feathers because it is designed to absorb ink fast....much faster than a slow fountain pen laying big puddles on the paper.

Pure laser allows the ink puddle letter to sit, and dry....less feathering. More shading.

It is hard and getting harder to find papers that are not laser/ink jet.

 

Some inks like Pelikan and Lamy Royal Blue fade and are well known for that. Both were designed or became an erase and wash out of cloths ink for school kids. Fades closed up in a notebook, put away. Those two are perhaps the major culprits.

 

Amber has a great number of posts on fading of ink...her tests and coordination of other folks under her leadership.

By the time that was done I had most of my inks....but is a major well of info to check first.

 

Now a second thought....do you need every written word to be hurricane and counterfeiter proof? I don't....in I do like shading ink....have learned to write under an umbrella and not in the shower.

There are lots of weird things to carry paper in so it don't get wet. Briefcases, plastic sleeves.....waiting for the sun to come out.

Edited November 23, 2016 by Bo Bo Olson

[Abner C. Kemp]

I purchased a bunch of the Maurman Word Cards before they were discontinued (basically watercolor paper I think). For each ink I sample or own, I take a Q-Tip and make a swab of the ink on a card. I usually try to put down a very saturated amount of the ink in the beginning of my swab and allow the ink to become lighter as the Q-Tip runs dry near the end of my swab so I get a decent idea of the shading and how it will look in pens with different wetness properties. I keep all the cards in alphabetical order by manufacturer on a ring. I've found this system to work fairly well and it's nice to quickly have the ability to compare inks.

[Muncle]

This thread inspired me to start my own little swatch library.

 

I got a little 5cm Rhodian pad, and picked out three pens to dip inks and write with: a Lady stub, Sheaffer fine nib, and an Indian flex nib. I will add a q tip swab at the bottom. Already done Mont Blanc Toffee Brown, Bay state Blue, and Sheaffer Black.

 

I figure that I can organize them by colour, but I will need an album to keep them in. Any suggestions for something so small? I could write on the back as I ink up a pen with that colour.

 

I needed something to do with this hobby aside from accumulating. I don't journal, and work rarely requires pen use. I hope to do a swatch a day.

[Inkedinker]

I went to the local office supply store and found a cheap plastic container that came with the cards. I know I have seen some better quality metal ones that I will eventually pick up. I'm thinking maybe the local thrift store might have had them...

[tamiya]

I squiggle onto cards & a notebook just for personal reference.

 

Suggest you own a scanner & fresh off the nib, scan your card in.

 

I never scanned any & now, if I squiggle with same ink notice some colours HAVE FADED only after 6/12/18mths... dunno whether it's reaction to paper, surroundings etc etc they don't see sunlight.

 

So that's another complication in your mission... how will you account for colour change?

[Buzz_130]

I have an ink log and a pen log. My ink log is broken down by color and again by brand. I use generic, heavy weight copy paper for consistency and cost. I have several sheets of blue, and some manufacturers are getting close to filling their own pages.

 

I also have a pen log. Each pen has its own page, and I usually have some notes as to when I bought the pen and initial impressions. Every time a pen is filled, it gets a notation about the date and type of ink, over time, I can match ink to nib quickly.

 

Buzz

[Inkedinker]

I'm not sure about the accounting for fade. I was expecting more to just have a basic reference for jnks I like. I looked through a retail site that has samples of ink and kinda just put a few into the shopping cart. I realized at the end, there was over 30 shades of blue, 15 greens, 10-12 reds and about 20 other colors. My main reason to do this is to not end up with duplicate colors of stuff I don't care for and doesn't work well with my pens.

 

I guess there is more to think about here than I originally thought.

[Sandy1]

I'm not sure about the accounting for fade. I was expecting more to just have a basic reference for jnks I like. I looked through a retail site that has samples of ink and kinda just put a few into the shopping cart. I realized at the end, there was over 30 shades of blue, 15 greens, 10-12 reds and about 20 other colors. My main reason to do this is to not end up with duplicate colors of stuff I don't care for and doesn't work well with my pens.

 

I guess there is more to think about here than I originally thought.

 

Hi,

 

I encourage you to take the advice of Member ac12 : "Start sooner rather than later, as it is a b*tch to catch up."

> Start now and constantly evolve your Ink Library to suit your purpose and way of working.

 

It is better to get it 'right enough' early on when you have a small-ish number of pens, inks and papers than try to wrangle the output of many pens, papers and inks.

 

Part of the thing is to find a method [with a fair bit of intuitive wiggle room] that allows for continual addition of pens, papers and inks - realising that we're never done exploring the infinite horizon. I reckon it is an organic process, evolving to suit one's preferences.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited November 25, 2016 by Sandy1

[ac12]

The only 'fading' that I have observed is when the ink ink dries on some papers it is absorbed into the paper, so the color of the ink fades as the ink dye is absorbed into the paper.

 

I don't leave any inks out in the sunlight, so I cannot comment on light fading.

 

BUT, color fading is a known problem in many things, so I would not leave the writing out exposed to sunlight.

I think it is the UV in the sunlight that causes the fading.

[ppdiaporama]

I have an ink log where I write the same phrase with different pens. The pages are grouped by colour (light to dark). The pages come from A5 Rhodia pads --I can do 4 samples per page.

 

During the Winter months, I order a bunch of samples and spend some evenings just filling pens and writing in my log --that has led me to having at least 4 pens for each cartridge type; a fine, a medium, a broad and a stub or italic. This way I get the most out of my converter --and I spend the maximum amount of time cleaning my pens ;-)