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Vasaline? What About Silicone Grease?


Needhelp

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i was wondering if we can use vasaline instead of silicone grease i know we can get it easily and blah blah but can we use it to grease the piston mechanisms in piston fillers,converters and eye dropper pens? and also if we calculate the cost of repairing a vinage fountain pen ourselves how would the cost compare to the newer pens of the same level?

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Vaseline is a petroleum distillate. Silicone grease is not. Not all materials react well to contact with petroleum products, so in general silicone grease is considered to be a safer lubricant. It is also less likely to be washed off of the lubricated surface. Some silicone greases are less prone to being washed off than others.

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... also if we calculate the cost of repairing a vinage fountain pen ourselves how would the cost compare to the newer pens of the same level?

 

Regarding this part, I am not sure one can say that a vintage fountain pen is directly comparable with "newer pens of the same level", even after we define "newer". My pens start in the 1920s and skip only the decades 1950s and 1960s. With some exceptions, the modern pens are smoother*. They are also typically much heavier and somewhat more practical. After allowing for cost of repair on those that needed it (close to half in one way or another), the modern (new) ones in general were more expensive but the most expensive are not a current models.

 

So, I think the question does not admit an answer until you can be clearer on what is important to you. Where does satisfaction of repair enter? How do you like your pens to look, to feel, to write? When is "newer" to you?

 

And by the way, it is "Vaseline", only one 'a' and the 'v' in upper case because it is a trade mark.

 

Hope all of this helps.

 

* Edit: I resile from that point. I think that comment came from the last pen I happened to have used.

Edited by praxim

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As Ron Z said.

 

And even then be careful.

Cressi-sub diver's silicone grease has eaten away the foam section grip on one of my Rotring Skynns.

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Cressi-sub diver's silicone grease has eaten away the foam section grip on one of my Rotring Skynns.

 

That's possible, but its also possible that it was simply foam rot, not unheard of with speakers where some super flexible foam was used to support the cone. The oils from your skynn (spelling intended) may have effected the foam on your Skynn.

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If I understand the second part of your question correctly; It is my opinion that if you do the repairs on vintage pens yourself, with some exceptions, it is far less expensive than buying a comparable modern pen. For example, you can buy a new Parker Centennial fountain pen for somewhere in the range of $350 - $600(USD), depending on dealer, material, etc.

I have in my accumulation a vintage Parker Duofold Sr. Burgundy & Black that I've less that $30 invested including purchase and repair cost (repair was a sac replacement).

 

Admittedly, this is an example from both ends of the cost spectrum, but there is no doubt you can find very reasonably priced vintage pens that require only minor restoration and you will have a pen every bit as good as any modern pen; some will say better than most modern pens and I include myself in that group.

 

I would venture to say that even if you pay a professional to restore your vintage pen, you will, most every time, come out way ahead. Now, if you are comparing Esterbrook's to TWSBI's, the cost comparison grows closer. Vintage top tier pens to their modern counterparts, the cost comparison is usually in the vintage pen's favor. Again, my opinion.

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Vaseline Was the more neutral grease used before silicone Was invented.

It Was used also in pens in the old times, as far as I know.

Try it carefully, brut I think you can use it, if silicone is not available.

But if you can get silicone, why use vaseline...... .

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can we use this traxxas 50k thats what i have it is used as both for rc cars and rubiks cubes.

 

No. That is silicone oil, and will wash off rather easily.

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No. That is silicone oil, and will wash off rather easily.

 

Well it is 50k weight not meant to be washed out easily i think because i used it in my rubiks cubes last year and still it remains there after everyday of playing with it.but if you are talking about washing it away with water then it is oil right so water and oil dont mix.

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And one more thing im thinking to get the twsbi eco extra fine but these are the two i have decided to buy from but which one should i get from in terms of reliability and cost and i live in kuwait so yeah which one would be a better option thank you.oh i forgot these are the two websites gouletpens.com and fontoplumo is the name

Edited by Needhelp
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41oEMSxS9OL._SX425_.jpgcan we use this traxxas 50k thats what i have it is used as both for rc cars and rubiks cubes.

my workbench for pen wrenching is shared with RC hobby ... RC silicones are plenty pure, no problems there

 

however what exactly are you using grease for?

 

Unlike some who seem to think their 1 tub of silicone grease is usable for all parts of pen... I've got a big range of little bottles, I can specialise ;)

 

50,000wt diff lube is pretty thick - if you're using it for sealing barrel threads, yeah that'll work. Basically anything that don't move too often.

 

Actual piston-in-barrel lubing, I prefer something thinner 1000-7000wt works well for my meddling. Also for the screwthreads in piston converters.

 

For rubber o-ring seals (eg Sheaffer touchdown), I lube them with 35/40/60/80wt silicone oil (RC shock oil)... less draggy than the thicker goos, easier to clean off excess whilst leaving enough to stop seals dragging.

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my workbench for pen wrenching is shared with RC hobby ... RC silicones are plenty pure, no problems there

 

however what exactly are you using grease for?

 

Unlike some who seem to think their 1 tub of silicone grease is usable for all parts of pen... I've got a big range of little bottles, I can specialise ;)

 

50,000wt diff lube is pretty thick - if you're using it for sealing barrel threads, yeah that'll work. Basically anything that don't move too often.

 

Actual piston-in-barrel lubing, I prefer something thinner 1000-7000wt works well for my meddling. Also for the screwthreads in piston converters.

 

For rubber o-ring seals (eg Sheaffer touchdown), I lube them with 35/40/60/80wt silicone oil (RC shock oil)... less draggy than the thicker goos, easier to clean off excess whilst leaving enough to stop seals dragging.

i dont use any grease but i am thinking to use this grease for the converter and threads of my pen and pure silicone grase is not available only maybe 25%pure.

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