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New At Fpn, Contempling To Buy A Pilot Custom Heritage 92


Monad

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Hello everybody.


First things first, I'm new in the forum (and also at the fountain pen world, which I consider a really interesting hobby), so I'm glad to introduce myself as a newcomer aficionado from Mexico.


Now I have a $15 Parker Vector pen, which is a decent piece for the price, but I don't like the idea of using cartridges and there're plenty of better options in the $100-200 price range in order to make a significant improvement, for sure.


The TWSBI 580AL was my first love candidate when looking for a decent fountain pen, and almost the final choice; it seems a very solid pen at a great price, plus I really love clear demonstrators (in fact, I don't consider any fountain pen without a visible ink level/showing) and the design is damn sexy to me. However, researching a little bit more, I found the Pilot Custom Heritage 92, which seems to be a more premium option, with slightly better materials, 14K nib, top-notch piston refiling system and a more refined design.


In my point of view, I see in the Pilot a pen that easily meets my requirements for an "endgame" purchase, but as long as you have the proper knowledge about the topic, I launch the following questions before making any decision:


-Does demonstrators have any disadvantages related to the plastic aging, or in other words, is a demonstrator pen suitable for a long term use with proper cares?

-What about stain? It's one of my main concerns and I don't know if is matter of luck, ink or plastic quality, or all of them.

-Is the Iroshizuku ink a good match for the pen in order to avoid stain issues? If yes, do you recommend any color in particular for a newbie, a must try?

-Is there any other demonstrator pen better or comparable to the CH 92 at a similar price tag that may deserve my attention?

-How is the Pilot #5 F Nib compared with other F nibs? I have a small writing and want the finest outline possible.

-Other tips, considerations or advises that a novice must know?


I think it's all for now, I hope you can help me to make the right decision and leave nothing to the air.


Thanks in advance and best regards!

Edited by Monad
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Welcome to FPN. :W2FPN:

 

I have two Pilot Custom Heritage 92s. One is in the "smoke" color, a sort of translucent black; the other is clear. Both have the FM (fine medium nib). I find this nib to be fairly fine, and what I want most of the time. My writing is generally large, but sometimes I write in small notebooks, and have no trouble with these. I'm sure the fine nibs would be close to what you want.

 

The "smoke" pen, which has become my favorite, came writing acceptably but a little dry. Look for the sticky thread in this forum on problems with new pens. I used the method described (or linked to there) of widening the tine gap slightly, after which it was perfect for me. I have seen other people mention that their #5 nibs came writing dry out of the box. Sometimes thorough flushing and cleaning is all that's needed, sometimes "flossing" with a brass shim, sometimes very carefully pulling the tines slightly further apart.

 

Some visible stains are always a possibility with demonstrators. The same thing can happen inside opaque pens, but you don't see it. With the pens empty, I sometimes see a little condensation (you may never get all the water out), but haven't noticed any real staining. With the pens filled, any stains would be hidden by the ink that's in there, and a tinted demonstrator shows even less. I generally like Iroshizuku and Sailor Jentle inks, but they are less water resistant than I prefer. Right now my smoke CH 92 has the ordinary Namiki Blue. That and Pilot (Namiki) Blue-Black are very good general purpose inks if you want water resistance.

 

Over the very long term, I do not know for sure how the plastic will hold up. I have not heard that it ages badly, and am not worried. I'm actually more or less neutral on demonstrator pens as such, and I'd be just as happy with opaque plastic for a piston filler as long as it had a little ink window near the nib. The important thing for me is how it writes, and I'm very satisfied with that, after the adjustment noted above.

 

I don't know where you would be buying from, but in the U.S. at least, sometimes the best prices come from Japanese sellers on eBay and Amazon.

 

I am sure there are other good choices. The steel nibbed Pelikan M200 comes in clear, and would be something to look at, but I don't know how the prices are now, and the nibs would run a bit broader than Japanese nibs.

Edited by ISW_Kaputnik

"So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable creature, since it enables one to find or make a reason for everything one has a mind to do."

 

- Benjamin Franklin

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Hi Monad :W2FPN:

To add to what ISW has said, the Custom 92 is a great pen and as mentioned it can be a little dry. To begin with I would recommend using wet ink such as that by Iroshizuku that would help to balance the dryness of the pen. depending on what you like, I find that a nice wet colour is Asa Goa (morning glory).

I don't think I've seen any issues with demonstrators staining, and if you're worried about that it may be better to buy a tainted one such as the smoke version that the above poster mentions (I've also seen a clear blue one available that looks really nice).

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Welcome to FPN!! The pen you are looking at is a great choice, I've had great luck with Pilot pens. Depending on the ink, some clear pens may experience staining, It this would really bother you then you may not like having a demonstrator style (clear) pen. I have several and have finally gotten used to the fact that sometimes I just can't get all the ink out of the nooks and crannies. Good luck with your decision!

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Welcome to FPN!! The pen you are looking at is a great choice, I've had great luck with Pilot pens. Depending on the ink, some clear pens may experience staining, It this would really bother you then you may not like having a demonstrator style (clear) pen. I have several and have finally gotten used to the fact that sometimes I just can't get all the ink out of the nooks and crannies. Good luck with your decision!

After all, the purpose of a demonstrator is to show what is happening and that include the fact that ink does get in the darnedest places including may where you jess gotta wonder how that was possible.

 

 

 

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-Is the Iroshizuku ink a good match for the pen in order to avoid stain issues? If yes, do you recommend any color in particular for a newbie, a must try?

 

I haven't heard of staining issues with Iroshizuku. Iroshizuku inks are generally wet, so they are considered ideal for Pilot pens which are considered dry. You can't really go wrong with any Iroshizuku inks, but Asa-Gao, Yama-Budo, and Ku-Jaku are good ones to start with - buy a few 5 mL samples of different colors and try them out!

 

 

-Is there any other demonstrator pen better or comparable to the CH 92 at a similar price tag that may deserve my attention?

 

I think Pilot CH92 and C74 are probably the best entry pens into that price range. Having said that, the other two big Japanese pen makers also have similarly-priced demonstrators. Some models of Platinum 3776 are demonstrators- bourgogne and chartres are tinted, while some limited editions are completely transparent. Sailor has demonstrator models for both Pro Gear Sapporo Slim and 1911 Profit.

 

Enjoy your time here! For me, the toughest part is stopping myself from going on a pen/ink buying spree after browsing this forum...

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Alright, this is going to sound like very weird advice, especially to a newcomer to the hobby, but don't spend money on pens. Here's my reasoning.

 

What most newcomers don't realize is that the hobby has three equally important parts: the pen, the ink and the paper. Pens are by far the most expensive of the trio and frankly you don't get that much of an upgrade as you spend more money. You should explore as many inks and papers as possible, that is really the most cost effective way of going about it.

 

Pilot CH 92 is a great pen and you can't really go wrong with one. The problem is that it is expensive. You mentioned the TWSBI 580 which is a much, much better option for a starter. You basically get the same package, except the nib isn't a gold one. Oh btw, gold nibs don't make THAT much of a difference. I have a long post on my blog which goes a bit into detail about gold nibs but the gist of it is that you practically don't get anything out of using a gold nib.

 

A great advantage of the TWSBI 580 is that it gives you the ability to try different nib widths in a cost effective way, you just replace the nib assembly instead of replacing the pen. You can of course replace just the nib on any pen but finding a replacement nib and actually carrying out the nib swap is hard. As far as I know, Lamy is the other brand that makes nib swapping very easy.

 

If you have convinced yourself that you need a Pilot CH 92 there's nothing I can say that will change your mind. But I really wish I hadn't spent all that money on pens right at the beginning. Inks and papers are really just as important as the pens and they can get pretty expensive themselves when you add things up, a newcomer really should start from exploring inks and papers. If at all possible, buy ink samples instead of bottles.

 

Obviously, there will come a time when you will want other pens to accompany your lonesome TWSBI (or Pilot if you go that way). Many newcomers make the mistake of buying similarly priced, similar pens. Diversity is key here, save money and buy something that is different and of higher quality when you eventually get a new pen.

 

As to your questions about demonstrators, the whole point of a demonstrator is that it lets shows you the internals of the pen. It looks messy and you see ink in places where you didn't think it would be. Staining is largely dependent on what ink you use rather than which pen you use. As a general rule of thumb, reds and purples have a higher chance of staining the pen compared to other colors.

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Thank you very much for the answers, I found them really usefull and illuminating!
Regarding to the staining, seems like a "ghost" who you learn to live with, but with proper cares (cleaning) and appropiate ink, would be a minor problem...
With respect to the shopping site, in fact, I've been seeing an Amazon japanese seller called J-Subculture, which sells the CH92 with the F nib at a better price than other sites that I've seen before.
I'll tell you my decision...

Alright, this is going to sound like very weird advice, especially to a newcomer to the hobby, but don't spend money on pens. Here's my reasoning.

 

What most newcomers don't realize is that the hobby has three equally important parts: the pen, the ink and the paper. Pens are by far the most expensive of the trio and frankly you don't get that much of an upgrade as you spend more money. You should explore as many inks and papers as possible, that is really the most cost effective way of going about it.

 

Pilot CH 92 is a great pen and you can't really go wrong with one. The problem is that it is expensive. You mentioned the TWSBI 580 which is a much, much better option for a starter. You basically get the same package, except the nib isn't a gold one. Oh btw, gold nibs don't make THAT much of a difference. I have a long post on my blog which goes a bit into detail about gold nibs but the gist of it is that you practically don't get anything out of using a gold nib.

 

A great advantage of the TWSBI 580 is that it gives you the ability to try different nib widths in a cost effective way, you just replace the nib assembly instead of replacing the pen. You can of course replace just the nib on any pen but finding a replacement nib and actually carrying out the nib swap is hard. As far as I know, Lamy is the other brand that makes nib swapping very easy.

 

If you have convinced yourself that you need a Pilot CH 92 there's nothing I can say that will change your mind. But I really wish I hadn't spent all that money on pens right at the beginning. Inks and papers are really just as important as the pens and they can get pretty expensive themselves when you add things up, a newcomer really should start from exploring inks and papers. If at all possible, buy ink samples instead of bottles.

 

Obviously, there will come a time when you will want other pens to accompany your lonesome TWSBI (or Pilot if you go that way). Many newcomers make the mistake of buying similarly priced, similar pens. Diversity is key here, save money and buy something that is different and of higher quality when you eventually get a new pen.

 

As to your questions about demonstrators, the whole point of a demonstrator is that it lets shows you the internals of the pen. It looks messy and you see ink in places where you didn't think it would be. Staining is largely dependent on what ink you use rather than which pen you use. As a general rule of thumb, reds and purples have a higher chance of staining the pen compared to other colors.

This is a perfectly valid and reasonable opinion.
The problem in my case is, as well as I said in the first post, I'm going directly for an "endgame" because I'm not a collectionist kind of person, even though I have many other hobbies with two or more exemplaries.
My idea, at least for now, is to buy the best clear demonstrator at a determinated price and take care of it for many years, and that's why I changed my mind about the TWSBI.
Of course, inks and papers are a completely different history, and I really want to take advantage for what my pen has to offer.
Anyway, I really appreciate your commentary, thanks!
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My only Pilot is a Metropolitan. Bit dry for my tastes, so it doesn't get a lot of use. Is currently uninked. So I can't speak directly to the pen you are considering.

 

I never thought of myself as a "collector" or even an "accumulator" for that matter. For many years I had two fountain pens. A Lamy Al Star and a Waterman Phileas. One or two inks. Then I found FPN while looking for a replacement bottle of Pelikan 4001 Blue Black. In the roughly 3 1/2 years I have been here I have added over 20 pens, several different papers, and a number of different inks. Different nibs for different purposes/moods.

 

I have pens that range from inexpensive (less than $20) to more moderately priced. ($100) I think for most people - there is no "end game" pen. Some people call it a grail.But if you can figure it out with only a couple of pens, more power to you.

Brad

"Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind" - Rudyard Kipling
"None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its cussedness; but we can try." - Mark Twain

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Once transparent, clear, piston lover, now only black or metal pen lust.

 

If you like the bigger, the better, especially the nib, will soon succumbed to elegant, demurred, proper pen.

 

Of course you are right. Don't contemplate, don't ask. Buy it and show us your goodies. Time is such a waste.

Edited by _InkyFingers
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Guys, as well as I said in the other topic, I just ordered mine at J-Subculture a few hours ago, and now I'm really excited untill it arrives!


I also purchased a Iroshizuku Take-Sumi ink from Amazon (I'm a bit bored of the blue ink of my Parker Vector's cartridge, so I decided to give a black ink a chance).


I'll stay in touch for updates!

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-Is there any other demonstrator pen better or comparable to the CH 92 at a similar price tag that may deserve my attention?

 

Look also at Pelikan M200 clear demonstrator. It is very well designed. The nib is steel. But it also unscrews to allow easy nib change. I own both Pilot 92 and Pelikan M200 and prefer the latter.

 

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-Is there any other demonstrator pen better or comparable to the CH 92 at a similar price tag that may deserve my attention?

 

Look also at Pelikan M200 clear demonstrator. It is very well designed. The nib is steel. But it also unscrews to allow easy nib change. I own both Pilot 92 and Pelikan M200 and prefer the latter.

 

 

Thanks for the shot, but I bought the Pilot already...
I have no doubt that both pens are awesome, and I really like some Pelikan models. :)
By the way, before I was completely decided for the CH 92, I was watching the Sailor Professional Gear transparent with 21K nib at Engeika, such a lovely piece, but the price gap and the softer gold nib throwed me back...
Edited by Monad
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Congratulations! I am confident you will like it!

 

Couple more good and bad things about the pen.

 

I would advise not to take the nib and feed out. A certain part, a ring holding the feed, may crack. Mine did so. It doesn't influence functionality of the pen, but the crack is visible beneath the transparent section.

 

Frequent ink changes are not welcome. The piston knob sits on metal threads and mine is full of fine plastic shavings. Result of massive flushes which inevitably call for knob turning.

 

The good news is that the material of Pilot 92 is more durable than that of Pelikan. Mine doesn't show a single mark. While the Pelikan became less transparent where the cap touches the barrel because of numerous fine scratches.

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Guys, as well as I said in the other topic, I just ordered mine at J-Subculture a few hours ago, and now I'm really excited untill it arrives!
I also purchased a Iroshizuku Take-Sumi ink from Amazon (I'm a bit bored of the blue ink of my Parker Vector's cartridge, so I decided to give a black ink a chance).
I'll stay in touch for updates!

 

 

Congrats - may you have many many good years writing with your pen! Looking forward to pictures when the pen arrives. In the meantime enjoy the time waiting for it to arrive - it's half the fun of getting a new pen!

 

I hope you chose an expedited shipping method - shipping from Japan to my doorstep here in the US can take upwards of 3 or 4 weeks for the cheap method!

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Thanks for the shot, but I bought the Pilot already...
I have no doubt that both pens are awesome, and I really like some Pelikan models. :)
By the way, before I was completely decided for the CH 92, I was watching the Sailor Professional Gear transparent with 21K nib at Engeika, such a lovely piece, but the price gap and the softer gold nib throwed me back...

 

Good choice! I'm sure you'll like it. Which version did you get - clear, blue, or smoke?

 

One small itsy bitsy point though - the nib on the Sailor 21k Pro gear is harder than that of the Pilot. The softness of a gold nib is defined by many things such as the other alloys in the nib and the shape of the nib, but the gold content usually has little to do with it. Also If you look on the side of the Sailor nib it will have "H-X" where "X" is medium(M), fine(F) or whatever you've chosen and the "H" means Hard.

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Congratulations! I am confident you will like it!

 

Couple more good and bad things about the pen.

 

I would advise not to take the nib and feed out. A certain part, a ring holding the feed, may crack. Mine did so. It doesn't influence functionality of the pen, but the crack is visible beneath the transparent section.

 

Frequent ink changes are not welcome. The piston knob sits on metal threads and mine is full of fine plastic shavings. Result of massive flushes which inevitably call for knob turning.

 

The good news is that the material of Pilot 92 is more durable than that of Pelikan. Mine doesn't show a single mark. While the Pelikan became less transparent where the cap touches the barrel because of numerous fine scratches.

 

Thanks for your advice and appreciations!

 

I'll take care of mine as much as a I can.

 

 

Congrats - may you have many many good years writing with your pen! Looking forward to pictures when the pen arrives. In the meantime enjoy the time waiting for it to arrive - it's half the fun of getting a new pen!

 

I hope you chose an expedited shipping method - shipping from Japan to my doorstep here in the US can take upwards of 3 or 4 weeks for the cheap method!

 

Yup, expedited shipping indeed, I'm not patient enough for the standard one. :P

 

Good choice! I'm sure you'll like it. Which version did you get - clear, blue, or smoke?

 

One small itsy bitsy point though - the nib on the Sailor 21k Pro gear is harder than that of the Pilot. The softness of a gold nib is defined by many things such as the other alloys in the nib and the shape of the nib, but the gold content usually has little to do with it. Also If you look on the side of the Sailor nib it will have "H-X" where "X" is medium(M), fine(F) or whatever you've chosen and the "H" means Hard.

The clear one.
As i said in the first post, I fell love with demonstrator clear pens (it all begins when I saw the TWSBI 580AL, and the thing was climbing quickly).
Regard to the Sailor, nice to learn that, I was pretty sure that the 21K tends to bend more easily than the 14K one in the Pilot...

 

If you find the CH92 is too dry you can always make it wetter pretty easily.

 

Thanks! I really appreciate if you show me how. ;)

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Regard to the Sailor, nice to learn that, I was pretty sure that the 21K tends to bend more easily than the 14K one in the Pilot...

 

 

 

Yes the 21k will bend more easily(and possibly irreparably!) for sure if you try to flex it resulting in a sprung nib, but of course this is inadvisable to try to do for a non-flex nib. I thought you meant softness in terms of feel of the nib

Edited by Bluey
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Yes the 21k will bend more easily(and possibly irreparably!) for sure if you try to flex it resulting in a sprung nib, but of course this is inadvisable to try to do for a non-flex nib. I thought you meant softness in terms of feel of the nib

 

That sounds more logic now.

 

Thanks for the clarification!

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