Sheaffer Imperial - Repair Question

[Inky.Fingers]

Appreciates any help with this repair.

 

I received a Sheaffer Imperial ...

 

After careful disassembly... all parts comes out like this:

 

 

Question 1. Is the nib assembly comes out easy like so? How is it retained to the nib section (seems to spins infinity with no treads)?

Question 2. What type of converter is this? How is it operated and is it serviceable?

 

Thanks so much for your help.

[jar]

The converter is the Sheaffer push button converter and it worked by pushing and releasing the button on the end.

 

I'll defer to the repair folk on the nib question.

[Ron Z]

The pen is a Sheaffer Stylist, nice pens. I have a NOS one identical to yours sitting in my collection.

 

The feed is is a slip fit into the nib mount, and the two are screwed into the section. The fit of the feed into the front part is usually tight enough that it doesn't shift as you screw the assembly in. There is a doughnut seal that goes around the back end of the piercing tube that butts up against the closed end of the section. This seal should be replaced if possible. If its still pliable, you may be able to get away with reusing it.

 

This is one case where a soak or a couple of cycles through an ultrasonic before disassembly would have helped. The threads of your nib mount are snapped off, with one half stuck on the feed, I suspect because dried ink had the parts stuck together. I don't know if this can be solvent welded back together or not. My preference when I encounter this is to replace the mount, but the supply of black ones is getting to be rather thin....

[Inky.Fingers]

Thank you both for your experience in this.

 

Ron,

 

I suspected I was sold with the nib mount broken as it came spinning in infinity. I had it soaked overnight and was able to disassembled as thus. I will look for MET or ketone to try to cold weld it. What is the recommended solvent here?

 

The button on the converter does not actuate, any rescue tips?

 

A million thanks.

[jar]

Thank you both for your experience in this.

 

Ron,

 

I suspected I was sold with the nib mount broken as it came spinning in infinity. I had it soaked overnight and was able to disassembled as thus. I will look for MET or ketone to try to cold weld it. What is the recommended solvent here?

 

The button on the converter does not actuate, any rescue tips?

 

A million thanks.

Not really worth trying to rescue the converter. Just replace it with either a modern Sheaffer squeeze type or Sheaffer piston.

[pajaro]

There is this thread from the Sheaffer forum about replacing the sac in a squeeze converter. I don't know how similar the squeeze converter and the push button converter are. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/309780-squeeze-converter-repair/

 

These converters are pricey and the supply must be getting short. Maybe you could give it to someone who might want to fix it. I tried to fix one of these a few years ago, but I am notoriously short of patience, and I ended up throwing it away. The pen it came from would not take the newer Sheaffer converter, it was too long.

Edited July 3, 2016 by pajaro

[Inky.Fingers]

I think I will x-ray this converter to see it's internal organ

Edited July 3, 2016 by _InkyFingers

[jar]

I think I will x-ray this converter to see it's internal organ

IIRC it is just a sac and squeeze bar.

[Ron Z]

Jar is correct - just a pressure bar and sac inside. Once you get the plug out, its just a matter of removing the old sac from the converter and nipple on the plug, and you're good to go.

 

re. the threads - use a solvent that contains metylene chloride. Use a properly sized drill to hold the pieces in alignment as you press them together, otherwise the parts won't be lined up properly, and you're unlikely to be able to slip the feed in. Don't use the feed to do this, because the material that squeezes into the middle will get stuck in the collector fins, and would likely keep you from pulling it out again. You are likely to need to chase the threads a bit so that it will screw back into the section.

[Inky.Fingers]

Thanks for the most informative connections.

 

About solvents... I have a nice link...

 

http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/18527-intro-to-solvent-welding-plastic/

 

I will attempt today back from the holidays.

[Inky.Fingers]

According to Oatey PVC cement: acetone 25-40% Cyclohexane 24-40% Furan 15-30% MEK 15-30%

 

All of which are inhalant allergent. Open the garage and side door, I think that's what it meant.

 

Would chloroform be effective?

Edited July 4, 2016 by _InkyFingers

[Ron Z]

At the risk of sounding boorish.... or to quote Horton "I said what I meant, and I meant what I said...."

 

I have experience with Sheaffer plastics.

 

 

 

re. the threads - use a solvent that contains metylene chloride.

 

 

You usually find it at hobby shops.

[Inky.Fingers]

I will take your words for that. I will re re quote you

[Inky.Fingers]

X-Ray view of the button filler system

[northstar]

Very nice, thank you

[Ron Z]

Eating crow here...

 

Much to my chagrin, unlike the material used in most of the Sheaffers of the era, the plastic used on the nib mount for this pen not only does not react with methlyene chloride, it doesn't react with any of the solvent that I have in the shop, and because I do plastic repair I have quite a few of them from which to choose. That makes me suspect that an epoxy won't hold either. So if one breaks, its broken. Toss it.