Pelikan piston removal...

[Gr8ham]

I have a Pelikan 300 - one of those export models made in the 50s - but the piston seems to be letting ink leak backwards into the piston chamber. Is there a way to remove the piston mechanism and clean the piston? It looks like it has calcium accumulations on it (strange really!) Also, the twist knob doesn't seem to screw down tightly, rather it has play when it will no longer tighten. None of my other Pelis do that, they are all tight when you stop filling. Suggestions?

Edited May 8, 2007 by Gr8ham

[Gr8ham]

Further to this, I just bought a 400NN off eBay and it has the same "problem". It looks like the piston mechanism isn't pushed far enough down into the barrel. How can I get it further down without ending up with many pieces of broken pen?

[DrJ]

Sometimes the piston becomes leaky due to age and wear. Thta seems to be your problem. Usually, this means replacement of the piston seal. Sometimes a revival of the old seal might be possible. In any case you have to remove the posiston mechanism. It is friction fit and needs to be knocked out from the nib-side of the pen. This is decribed in some detail here: Pelikan Pen Repairs . It is somewhat tricky to do it and you have a good chance to destroy the pen in the process. I had to learn that the hard way , so be careful ...

 

Joerg

 

 

[badrsj]

Sometimes the piston becomes leaky due to age and wear. Thta seems to be your problem. Usually, this means replacement of the piston seal. Sometimes a revival of the old seal might be possible. In any case you have to remove the posiston mechanism. It is friction fit and needs to be knocked out from the nib-side of the pen. This is decribed in some detail here: Pelikan Pen Repairs . It is somewhat tricky to do it and you have a good chance to destroy the pen in the process. I had to learn that the hard way , so be careful ...

 

Joerg

 

Dr. J - are you talking bout the N400 series being friction fit and need to be knocked out? if so what are your experiences - what should be used to knock it out (I think a special tool existed somewhere in time - but not now)

Thanks.

[DrJ]

 

Dr. J - are you talking bout the N400 series being friction fit and need to be knocked out? if so what are your experiences - what should be used to knock it out (I think a special tool existed somewhere in time - but not now)

Thanks.

 

To my knowledge, the piston mechanism of all Pelikan 400s is friction fit. I don't have a special tool for the removal of the mechanism. To knock out the mechanism, you have to heat the pen carefully. I used a simple with a pencil-like piece of wood having the right diameter (this is important). However, I broke some pieces out of the barrel in that process. The seal could not be renewed, so the loss was not that big. I really recommend the webpage I have posted, everything is explained there.

 

Joerg

[MYU]

It definitely looks like a delicate procedure. The friction fit is VERY tight. I tried heating up the barrel in very hot water, then using a wooden dowel as a knock-out tool. No dice. I feared jamming the dowel in too hard and cause something to split.

[MYU]

I recently bought a 140 in excellent condition with sticker. After cleaning out the barrel, I noticed that the piston was not fully retracted... I compared it to my 400NN and it does look like the piston is sitting out too far in the supposed fully retracted position. Is this as-designed in the 140? Were there some fitment problems where the piston would need to be reseated on the screw so that it would fully retract?

[Sard]

Great thread, and very helpful. And for anything with a friction fit. I have an M200 black anthracite that had a very obvious fiber in behind the piston. I used an aluminum punch that came as part of a set of tools for working on Parker 51's. Not quite a perfect fit, but close. After heating the body of the pen up it worked perfectly... and that very annoying fiber is long gone.

 

If I ever have to do this again, and I hope I don't, I will try for a perfectly fitted wooden dowel.

 

Kris

[fountainbel]

MYU,

Immersing the barrel in hot water is not the way to go to reduce the friction fit pretension in my opinion

Since you will heat up both fitting parts,the friction fit pretension will remain practically unchanged.

Heating up the external part of the barrel (with a hear dryer or heat gun) one heats up the barrel alone, so the barrel can slightly expand & the friction fit pretension reduces.

Note that I never heat up the barrel for removing the piston mechanism;

Instead I soak & process the complete pen - nib disassembled - for half an hour in the US cleaner.

Using a steel diameter 5 mm pin 100 mm long (equipped with a flat Delrin tip on the piston contact side ) I then knock out the mechanism out from the section side while holding the pen firmly in my left hand (using a grip mat).

Never had any problem or breakage in doing so.

Francis

 

 

 

 

It definitely looks like a delicate procedure. The friction fit is VERY tight. I tried heating up the barrel in very hot water, then using a wooden dowel as a knock-out tool. No dice. I feared jamming the dowel in too hard and cause something to split.

Edited October 21, 2008 by fountainbel

[fek]

Hi, I am new here.

 

I would like to know what kind of piston does the M100 has, friction fit or thread? Mine is made in W.Germany so it may have been produced between 1980 and 1990.

 

Thanks in advance for any answer.

[miko]

Is this also the procedure for piston mechanism removal for modern Pelikans (400, 600, 800) or is it different?

[fountainbel]

Miko,

Removal of the filling system of modern Pelikans is completely different.

See my earlier input on a topic on the Pelikan board :

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...83540&st=15

While the M800 & 1000 use a maintenance friendly (LH) screw-in filler unit housing, (easily removable using a 1.2 mm thick 7mm spanner) the smaller versions use a "pop-in" filler unit on which the engaging pop-in rings are easily stripped-off when disassembling.

I would therefore not recommend trying to disassemble the "pop-in" versions but leave it to proffesionals.

Coping with the problem I even expect Pelikan always installs a new pop-in housing after extracting the piston assembly.

Francis

[RevAaron]

MYU:

 

From the end of the threads to the beginning of the piston, one is 21 mm and one is 23. Neither has any visible piston-rod, which you'd expect if it wasn't fully retracted or fitted right.

 

I would note though, that you do see some piston rod on the M205/M250 demos- not sure why Pelikan changed this part of the design, but they did.

 

Also PM'd reply.

 

Aaron

[puqq]

Instead I soak & process the complete pen - nib disassembled - for half an hour in the US cleaner.

 

What is the "US cleaner"?

[watch_art]

ultra sonic.