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Pelikan M101N Tortoise Shell 1938. Repair!?


JPM-10

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Thanks for the tip of Tilburg, that name never came up in my reseach / google.

I hope I can find a person who really love this set and knows it's value.

Your writing sounds more an English person that a Dutch one or

your English is that good.

Thanks again and if you know somebody who is looking for a a set, let me know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been to the Penshop yesterday.

Apperently the pen couldn't take the inkt in the barrel, he is going to change that what was cork into rubber.

Then the pen is ready for use again !!

For the rest the pen had a very good condition.

I don't no if i will change the case, it's origional but the look is not that great en the zipp is missing "teeth".

See what I can find.

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I have the pen restored. Did send it to

 

The Penguin fountain pens

Rick Propas

web: www/thepenguinpen.com

 

He did a splendid job. Restored the pen so I can use it again.

The total cost were US 500 as he had to replace the barrel, the piston, the nib en a gold ring on the cap, seal some other parts.

In the timespan of one month I had it send to the USA and back on my desk again in working order.

 

Super pen! Super job done by Rick . I can surely recomend him for the job on your pen.

 

Kind regards,

JPM

 

Congratulations!

You are so lucky to have a family heirloom like that.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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Impressive Christof, don't dare to do that myself.

The men from the Penshop restore with cork as well but for the last 25 years

he is using rubber to prevent leaking in future.

I've asked the opinion of as (possible) buyer, he recommend the buyer has to

choose the material.

Waiting for the opinion of Rick.

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Wow Christof,

 

That looks amazing, but ...a bit trickey if you have to do this on a very old pen.

You have to be very confident this is going to work without damaging the pen beyond repair.

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Wow Christof,

 

That looks amazing, but ...a bit trickey if you have to do this on a very old pen.

You have to be very confident this is going to work without damaging the pen beyond repair.

 

I have done this repair about 100 times in the past 10 years on pens of several brands like Montblancs, Osmia, Kaweco, Soennecken etc... and on 50 Pelikan 100 at least.

C.

 

PS: Here's the photo story in hogher resolution again.

29000493804_39a4f376a7_o.jpg

Edited by christof
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  • 2 weeks later...

So, after reading some comments about repairing the seal with rubber, I contacted the shop to send the pen back without repair. I have a (possible) buyer and he want to make the decision himself (if he buys it). Got I phonecall from the shop yesterday,he was busy packing the pen for the mail and then (something that never happend before).............he dropped the pen !!!!!!! and then his colleague run over the pen with his chair !!!!!! Inktcontainer smashed and probbibly the cover over it as well. So, there goes my beautiful, spotless, originale fountain pen. He want to restore the pen with Original parts but then I have a "restored pen" Value will drop I suppose.

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That's a nightmare!

 

I am always very cautious not to let the pen roll free on

my desk. If it drops....it might be a total loss as the pen

is old end fragile. I only use it now and then. Mostly

it stays in a box in my desk.

 

 

Hope yours can be restored!

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That is just horrible... :(

 

I have unfortunately learned the fragile ways of vintage Pelikan's the hard way, first with a an otherwise trouble free and clean pre-war IBIS that developed a huge crack at the end of the barrel when I was started to unscrew the piston housing. The celluloid barrel later turned out to be more fragile than hard sugar candy, as in, you could break it apart by pressing at it with moderate force, it was just nuts.

 

The second one was way more painful. I managed to fumble and drop a perfectly *minty* (crystal clear ink window etc.) black postwar 100N barrel as I was inspecting it... it hit the hardwood floor section first and the end of it pretty much shattered to pieces there and then.

 

That took more than a few seconds to sink in (insert here all the stages of grievance in short order), I was pretty much mortified for a while after that. Thus, I refuse to handle pens while standing up over on hardwood floors but instead prefer carpeted areas and sitting down. Painful dues this hobby has...

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Great pictures and instructions, Christof.

I will need extra tools. :( For other pens.

My greenish 100n is still just great. A very lucky almost 'new' find and some would say I was a Somegi at 20E.

 

Mana that second link is great...I'll be able to date mine better, than just 'after the war'. And it was made much longer than I expected....ie 1954 :yikes: .

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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So Mana, you had that horrible feeling of losing a pen like that as well. Even worse because you did it yourself. The pen is (was) really very fragile. The whole feeling of "the originale old pen" is gone.

I wonder how much the value of the pen will drop. I've asked for pics but so far he have send me 1 bad one so don't know execly what the damage looks like.

And yes,JPM ,I hope the man from the Penshop can restore it in a propper way.

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  • 1 month later...

If you go to L.A. Pen Show, will be there a guy with brand new old stock pelikan parts, like caps, tops, feeds, collars for 100-100N-140-400's,

pistons, clips, nibs, bindes, knobs, etc. etc. most tortoise and red.

You can contact: pelikanpenguy@gmail.com to get more information about old pelikan parts too.If this helpes you, I'm glade. JOEPLK

Edited by JOEPLK
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If you go to L.A. Pen Show, will be there a guy with brand new old stock pelikan parts, like caps, tops, feeds, collars for 100-100N-140-400's,

pistons, clips, nibs, bindes, knobs, etc. etc. most tortoise and red.

You can contact: pelikanpenguy@gmail.com to get more information about old pelikan parts too.If this helpes you, I'm glade. JOEPLK

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Boil the cork in Paraffin, the English thick mineral oil, and beeswax in a small tin on the stove.

 

Before inserting the piston slather the treated cork with 100% silicon grease. Your pen should be good for at least 70 years....if used often.

 

 

Paraffin and beeswax was mentioned in Marshal and Oldfield's Pen Repair second edition.

 

Fountainble uses the silicon grease on top of the Paraffin and beeswax treatment.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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