New Dip Pen Nibs...to Burn Or Not To Burn...that Is The Question.

[Mike_in_VT]

So I've read mixed recommendations for breaking in dip pen nibs. Some say melt off the coating over a flame for 2 seconds, so say don't. Some recommend soap and water, but this doesn't seem to affect it enough. Many of my flex nibs (Brause Rose and others) don't hold enough ink to complete one capital letter...what should I do?

[jabberwock11]

A little bit of ammonia or window cleaner will completely remove the machine oil residue. A flame is an issue because dip pen nibs are so thin that a flame can easily warp and/or screw up the temper and make a nib much more brittle.

 

If your nib is not holding ink properly, then I would suggest that you keep using it. Once the nib builds up a bit of ink residue it will hold more ink over a longer period of time. The Brause Rose is notorious for being a difficult nib to use, it also does not hold much ink, even at its best. Some nibs are meant more for ornamentation than for longer writing sessions, most of the super flex nibs fall into this category, but they should hold enough to at least complete a word or two (unless your writing really large or really ornate letters).

[ajlmarques]

So I've read mixed recommendations for breaking in dip pen nibs. Some say melt off the coating over a flame for 2 seconds, so say don't. Some recommend soap and water, but this doesn't seem to affect it enough. Many of my flex nibs (Brause Rose and others) don't hold enough ink to complete one capital letter...what should I do?

 

So, this might be the most stupid thing you read all day, but anyway, here it goes... Are you using proper calligraphy ink, and not just normal fountain pen ink?

Just asking because, many years ago when I started using dip nibs, I've ordered nibs and ink from different places. Nibs arrived first, so there I went trying them with what ink I had around - fountain pen ink... The result was far from ideal.

[Mike_in_VT]

I have tried both, calligraphy/india ink and FP ink.

 

I watch a few demonstrations on YouTube of Spencerian writing with people using FP ink, but the same nibs I have and they're able to get an entire word written.

[flummoxed]

I've seen people posting pictures of dipping the nibs in potatoes (overnight) or lime (for about 10 minutes) on Instagram and they add that then washing it helps prepare the nibs. I haven't tried this method myself.

 

When using FP ink, using a drop or two of Gum Arabic helps with ensuring that the FP ink becomes more usable with dip nibs.

[ac12]

The thing is to get ALL the manufacturing oils off the nib, however you can.

I've used the following:

- rubbing alcohol, only the one where the inert ingredient is water.

- automotive carburetor cleaner, nasty stuff only use it outside

- match, for only a couple seconds, and NOT down at the tip of the blue where it is hottest.

Edited April 26, 2016 by ac12

[Uncial]

Toothpaste

[Bluey]

Toothpaste

Me too.

Plus it's a very green system as it puts those old toothbrushes to use

[Cryptos]

Saliva. I'm sorry but someone had to say it... and it is what I do. Nib in the mouth for 30 seconds usually does the trick.

[Goudy]

Saliva. I'm sorry but someone had to say it... and it is what I do. Nib in the mouth for 30 seconds usually does the trick.

 

I wouldn't advise that with a crow-quill nib, though. Those things are like hypodermic needles!

 

I generally use whatever pen flush I have handy (usually Rapido-Eze). I also use the same stuff on gold nibs if they've got a bit oily through handling.

[AAAndrew]

I am viewed as an apostate in the field, and it makes many cringe when I say it, but I flame. I use a butane lighter and here's my technique.

 

Insert the nib in a holder.

Holding the nib concave side down, I move the nib over the flame keeping the flame more in the middle of the nib for the count of one ("one-one-thousand") then move the nib out of the flame.

Leave it out of the flame for one-half-to-one-second.

Return the flame for one second, again ensuring the flame is not directly under the tip. Remove.

Repeat for a total of four times, then wipe the nib off on a paper towel, pen wipe, tissue, etc...

 

If I ever get skin oils on the tip again, I repeat this but only once.

 

I have now done this with over a hundred types of nibs and I've not had any trouble. A really delicate nib, like a Gillott's 303 gets only three times. It seems to heat up the nib enough to loosen the coating, which is just wiped off, but not enough to impact temper of the steel. It's also convenient, quick and keeps the nib away from water and soap. And none have rusted after.

 

Oh, and make sure you let the nib cool off before dipping in ink or liquid.

 

I stopped sucking on the vintage nibs I use after finding out some of the fun stuff used in making the old nibs. An arsenic bath was a mild option.

[Garageboy]

Wait, so is there a way to use fountain pen ink with dip nibs? (besides thickening the ink) I had such a difficult time with a hunt 101 and FP ink

Edited June 2, 2016 by Garageboy

[ac12]

 

Wait, so is there a way to use fountain pen ink with dip nibs? (besides thickening the ink) I had such a difficult time with a hunt 101 and FP ink

 

 

I do it all the time, and straight out of the bottle, no thickening.

All you need is a CLEAN nib. As mentioned, I use rubbing alcohol, where the inert ingredient is WATER. On one nib, I had to use carburetor cleaner, as it had what some suspect was silicone oil on it.

I also use it in an oblique holder, so the nib angle is lower to the paper than with a straight holder.

[ENewton]

I use undiluted dish soap but would love to know the origin of the potato method.

[AAAndrew]

There's also the saliva method. I read somewhere that the proteins in your saliva make a nice coating that allows the ink to flow well. But after I read what kinds of wonderful toxins they use for coating vintage nibs (arsenic, mercury are two of the nicer ones) I stopped doing that.

 

Some fountain pen inks work, some do not. Some are too wet, too much lubricant. Trial and error, and a well-prepped nib, will tell you which ones will work on what paper. (the paper is a key part of this equation, of course)