IMO the 200's nib, a springy 'true' regular flex nib with traditional width is much better than a modern fat, blobby, semi-nail modern two toned 400/600 nib. It gives a much nicer ride.
An '80's-97 'true' regular flex mono tone gold nib is as good as the 200 Stainless steel or gold plated nib. Both are traditional width, springy 'true' regular flex nibs.
I have two 90's Celebries, one with a traditional width'ed SS nib and the other with a14 K nib that are completely equal. I have a semi-vintage '90's 400 Tortoise also. There is no difference.
I trans-mailed a slew of steel 200's nibs to a pal in England, in there are many fools in Germany who refuse to ship outside of Germany. I have a big handful of vintage 400's also...so don't need a 200. But the 215, which has a brass barrel so balances different has the '200's nib. I bought one of them because I like the 200's nib.
The monotone 400-400n-400nn come in semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex...once you are ready for that.
The vintage Osmia come with S Steel and 14 K nibs that are completely equal. By being a gold nib snob....I let a lot of great Osmia pens get away.
I don't know what the gold plated nibs go for, but the stainless steel go for @$25 and you could get a lot of widths in a fine nib, better than a fat, overly stiff, blobby modern 400/600 nib.
The reason they make so poor a modern nib, in the world is full of impatient ain't got three minutes to learn how to hold a fountain pen, Ham Fisted Ball Point Barbarians, gouging the Grand Canyon in desks while holding the pen like a ball point pen.....at near 90 degrees, instead of 45 degrees right after the big index knuckle, 40 degrees at the start of the web of the thumb, or even letting the pen rest in the pit of the thumb at 35 degrees. Held there the nib floats in a small puddle of ink.
Holding it like a ball point can cause skipping problems and wack the nib out of alignment easier because of Jack Hammer Hands.
To keep pen repair costs down, they went from the nice springy regular flex. To keep Ball Point Barbarians in the fountain Pen World...they adulterated the product...the nib. making the tip wider, a ball under and over the nib tip....blobby no character, wider than traditional by 1/2 a nib size harder riding stiffer nibs that can not be busted so easy.
Outside the 200's nib...gold plated or steel, you have to go semi-vintage for '80's-97 in 'true' regular flex.They have the American Bump Under tipping.
The '50's-65 for semi-flex, do not have the American Bump Under tipping, but a flat stubbish tipping that gives you flare with out doing anything for it. The German semi-flex or maxi-semi-flex obliques of that era are the only obliques worth buying in they give you great line variation.
Unless you normally cant your nib, due to left eye dominance, buy only semi-flex Obliques.
If you hold your nib normally, I have had couple of nails, and tried 'true' regular flex 200's oblique nibs....they are worthless, for any real line variation. I had hoped for more out of the 200's oblique nib....perhaps the 200's American Bump Under instead of the stubbish '50-60's nibs had something to do with that.
If you are going to spend a fortune on a gold nib, then get semi-vintage or vintage and get a real nib. Used is cheaper than new too. Not the modern post 97 poor excuse of a Barbarian's nib.
The 200's springy 'true' regular flex nibs do match the '80-97 semi-vintage nibs....to use while you are gathering up the money to look, for a vintage semi-flex or maxi-semi-flex nib.
I don't suggest going for a semi-flex nib until you have four pens...may I suggest an EF &B in nail and M&F in true regular flex.
There are certain shading inks that shade better in true regular flex than in the wetter semi-flex. Paper helps too 90g laser is the minimum for shading outside the 80g Rhoda and a 70 G Japanese paper.
I picked up a prejudice against the M nib here.
I can't find the exact blurb I've written before.
MB Toffee on a 90 g laser paper was tested with an F where certain parts of the stroke was lighter, M and B nib where certain parts of the stroke were darker. The M was 50-50 . That broke my learned here prejudice vs a 'true' regular flex M nib.
Yes, you do need true regular flex nibs also; be it the steel/gold plated 200 or the semi-vintage 400.
Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 30 April 2016 - 00:11.