Any Recommendations To Polish Resin While Still Protecting Plated Metal.

[Kiel]

Anyone out there have any recommendations to polish resin (Montblanc) while still protecting plated metal parts? My question is about good polishing compounds from courser to finer, is the use of buffing wheel recommended and if so what type of polishing compound. More importantly protecting the gold plated clip and barrel rings. Thanks, Bill Kiel

Edited April 19, 2016 by Kiel

[Ron Z]

Have you ever used a buffing machine? If not, you may want to learn on something else before trying one on a Montblanc. They're great, and I use one with every pen that I restore. But a buffer can snap a pen out of your fingers and throw it against the dust collector, or across the room, faster than you can blink. Really. The panic while you pickup the pen and inspect for damage lasts an eternity by comparison, and if you're lucky nothing is broken.

 

Better still, stick to hand polishing. There are a number of polishes on the market. I would look for one that doesn't have solvents or waxes in it.

 

You can always mask the trim with Scotch tape for either buffing or hand polishing. If adhesive residue is left behind, naphtha (which evaporates very quickly and won't damage the pen) can be used to remove it.

[Polanova]

For protecting metal parts like rings & clip I use Washi Tape when I polish a pen

[Kiel]

I'm currently using a Foredom flex shaft for the buffing wheel so not much chance of the pen flying to the other end of the garage. I would be using iron oxide, red rouge for the polishing media. I do have some beater pens that would be good practice candidates. I use this tool primarily for gunsmithing and polishing hardened steel.

[FOUR X FOUR]

Have you ever used a buffing machine? If not, you may want to learn on something else before trying one on a Montblanc. They're great, and I use one with every pen that I restore. But a buffer can snap a pen out of your fingers and throw it against the dust collector, or across the room, faster than you can blink. Really. The panic while you pickup the pen and inspect for damage lasts an eternity by comparison, and if you're lucky nothing is broken.

 

Better still, stick to hand polishing. There are a number of polishes on the market. I would look for one that doesn't have solvents or waxes in it.

 

You can always mask the trim with Scotch tape for either buffing or hand polishing. If adhesive residue is left behind, naphtha (which evaporates very quickly and won't damage the pen) can be used to remove it.

Thanx for the info Ron. Now I have a new of screwing up my pens

[Ron Z]

I'm currently using a Foredom flex shaft for the buffing wheel so not much chance of the pen flying to the other end of the garage.

 

Do be careful. There are two problems with this. One is the size (width and diameter) of the wheel, and the speed of the Foredom flex shaft too. Both, together and independently, make it very easy to burn the surface of your pen. I've seen pens on which it has happened many times. Its tough to get an even finish on the pen when you use a wheel this small.

 

The best buffing speed for plastics is 1725 RPM with a 6" in diameter, 1" wide loose felt wheel. The typical buffer speed is 3450 RPM, too high and can burn some plastics. The lower speed is recommended by plastics distributors. The wider wheel gives a more even, smoother finish to the pen. The compound that you use is a blue compound intended for plastics. It is very fine, surprisingly aggressive, but dry so that it doesn't leave a greasy residue on your pen like rouge will, nor will it color the material being buffed.

 

This is what I have been using for about 20 years with excellent results. The compound is the ONLY compound that I use in the shop, for plastics, hard rubber or metal.

 

If you do use a buffer, use the slower speed, the wider wheel, and buff only on the lower front quadrant of the wheel if rotating downward and toward you, upper quadrant if rotating away from you. Use light pressure - let the wheel and compound do the work, and make sure you have a firm grip on the pen, and pay attention to what you are doing the whole time! That is, if you want to avoid a real "OH c**p" moment. (says he who has had a lot of them in his carrier) (there is a reason why I don't have a webcam in the shop)

[kirchh]

Note that iron oxide (red rouge) is specifically intended not to act as an abrasive, but to polish metal surfaces via a burnishing action (that is, by flattening minutely higher areas into lower ones to produce a smooth surface without removing material). It will have an abrasive action when used on something softer than itself -- such as plastic -- but that's not what its intended for.

 

--Daniel

[ac12]

I polish my pens by HAND. I do not feel comfortable using a polishing wheel, because I do not have enough experience to feel comfortable doing that. I tape off anything that I don't want polished; engraving, clips, rings, etc. And I don't worry about polishing to the very edge next to the ring or other metal.

 

Most anything mechanical will move too fast for a novice. As Ron said, you could destroy the pen in a second. Unless you really know what you are doing, it is much safer to do it by hand. Slower, but safer. Once you have the experience, then you can carefully add mechanical advantage. But you have to know what you are doing. Use the right tool for the job. The wrong tool can do more damage than good. I was told that the tuition of leaning to repair pens, are destroyed pens.

Edited April 21, 2016 by ac12

[mana]

I polish pens by hand, it is more of a pastime and a hobby for me so I can take my time to clean and touch up newly arrived & worn pens.

 

Going via the least damage route so Micro-Gloss liquid abrasive by Micro-Mesh works a treat for me. For the most part it is just the 1 micron abrasive particles and water so it is safe, doesn't leave anything on the pen.

 

For applying it I use either my fingers (nibs etc.) or a soft micro or polishing cloth intended for optics. Fingers are good because they keep the solution fluid longer, cloth tends to soak up the water and you have to apply it more often.

 

For anything more serious I have a set of Micro-Mesh soft pads (up to 12000 grit) although I have yet to actually use those (like I said, least damage possible).

 

Also, as said previously, masking any plated trims and engravings/markings is very much recommended before working on a pen.

 

Manufacturer's info page for Micro-Gloss

Edited April 21, 2016 by mana