You don't mention where you are, so we can't direct you to the right nibmeisters.
You didn't say what pens you have?
Most modern pens being nails or semi-nails make great stubs and CI's. I have a Canadian factory '36 BB nib on a '38 Parker Vac. Also to my vast surprise a maxi-semi-flex Australian Sheafer Snorkel with a factory BB stub. All my '50's German pens are stubbs; semi-flex. Those who made semi-flex nibs like Soenecken, MB, Geha, Osmia, Pelikan, or Kaweco had stubbish nibs to start with.
I'd suggest sending off pens in alternating pairs, there is no reason, IMO to have both stub and Cursive Italic through the F-M-B-BB range as I see it as a waste.
Alternate from F to BB. I'd suggest F as stub in the nib is so narrow it won't catch the paper like a CI might, M as CI, B stub and BB as CI. Though if you have two B's a stub and a CI would be nice.
Why waste money buying new pens when you might already have pens with the proper widths to make them stub and CI.Very many people have found the fat blobby nib of the modern pen to be real boring, so have gone for some character with stubs and CI.
For CI make sure you give your nibmeister a picture of at what angle you hold it, 45-40 or even 35 degrees in the pit of the web of your thumb. Some long or heavy pens rest better there.
I have a CI that feels sometimes like it should have been ground for 40 degrees rather than being held at 45 degrees after the big index knuckle. It is a heavier pen, a Lamy persona with the worlds most boring nail OB, that was made CI, that would feel better at 40 degrees at the start of the web of the thumb than just behind the big index knuckle at 45 degrees.
Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 21 February 2016 - 16:40.