Skylines have a reputation (deserved or not) as compared to other brands for having brittle barrels. Brittleness is only a problem if the pen receives a shock as in being dropped on a hard surface or stress as in force being applied. For us the force issue is the most important and controllable issue. The use of heat and liquids is recommended for all section removal on almost all pens, it is most important for Skylines.
I mention liquids here too because they can help free up a stuck section. How to get the liquid to the stuck mated surfaces of the section and the barrel is a problem. If the sac is brittle and broken then run some cool water into the lever slot so it will travel down to the section area . If the sac is already broken the water will reach the area intended. Putting the pen head into water for about 15 minutes may also let some water seep into the section-barrel joint too. On rare most stubborn situations a little detergent rust-buster will loosen things up and it has never harmed any plastic as it is not a plastic solvent.
What is the correct amount of heat? 140-160 degrees. Skylines are most often held together with shellac. And even if held together with another "glue" heat will tend to soften the material enough to reduce the force necessary to separate the section from the barrel.
The hands are the best tool but may not be strong enough to do the job. Be careful with those section pliers. The factory repair manual specified rocking the section out, not twisting it out. I have broken as many pens using the rocking motion as I have with the twisting motion, so I am not sure it really matters today. The spark plug pliers we have all paid too much for as section pliers are canted at an angle which is not the best for the job intended. People tend to apply force at that angle and break things. So be careful with those. Even the new circular wrenches (bionic wrench?) are at right angles to the section when use and they make it too easy to twist the section cross wise to the barrel.
The section contains the nib, feed, breather tube and in some cases the ink flow-back curved plastic device. The factory repair manual does not require the removal of the breather tube for nib and feed removal. Many people take the breather tube out to knock out the nib and feed. Many a breather tube has been broken in the process of removal. As the factory instructions say, use a knock out tube, not a rod. The factory repair part number for the knock oout was L-105, but they are made of unobtanium so you have to make your own. Most hobby shops carry aluminum tubing with a wide tube wall that is the right size for the job. Just hack off about a 5" piece, and clean op the ends from burs and hack saw lines. The slip the knock out tube over the breater tube and proced with the knock-out as usual.
Lever and Presser Bar
These are somewhat unique to the Skyline and require some close attention. I have inserted a picture below of the parts involved and the instructions from the factory manual on this topic:
Note step 4. Are you surprised that the factory instructed repairers to use acetone???
You can make your own tool for insertion of the presser bar.
You can make a nib insertion gauge
Skyline Models Trivia
Just for the interest such trivia presents, how many models of Skyline Pen are there?
Presentation Pen - Models 60, 61, D60, D61, J60 and J612 sizes
Skyline Pen - Models 76, 77, 76P and 77P
Streamliner Pen Models 98 and 99
Go ahead and post pictures of what you believe to be these models. There may be a prize for the correct submissions.
Anyway thought this might be of interest to all the Skyline fans out there.
Edited by Wahlnut, 25 April 2007 - 19:06.