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Ink Recommendations For Broad Pelikan Nibs


King Blotto III

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I recently added a double broad M800 to the collection and am really loving it. What are your favorite inks for these types of extra-broad nibs? Top three characteristics for me are: 1) good flow, 2) safety/ease of cleaning, and 3) shading.

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I have really been enjoying Diamine Damson in a wide nib. I'd also recommend Ancient Copper and Sheaffer Blue-Black. The Sheaffer ink is a real sleeper-- far nicer than I expected with very nice shading.

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I tend to favor rich, colorful inks for my broader nibs. I have two M800 italic broad nibs, and largely use Diamine inks in them. In my experience, level of shading tends to be mostly based on the paper, and then on the particular ink. Some in the line seem to shade better than others.

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I've been using the J Herbin 1670 Bleu Ocean in my black m205 with an Italic nib and I think it looks very handsome. Those shimmering inks really get me. I really want to try some of the Rouge Hematite in the Mars Red special edition.

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R&K inks.

I bought a bottle of Pelikan 4001 green, a good shading ink.

Then suddenly in only one year I had 11 green/greenish inks. In the green-green inks, R&K Verdura beat MB Irish Green by a nose, Pelikan 4001 by a neck.

Pelikan the cheapest, MB the most expensive.

I was trying out samples of papers from 100-110-120, 150&170 g, and did along with other inks an 11 green ink test.

R&K Alt goldgrun is an ink that takes a bit to get use too but one one needs there after in life.

Their IG inks are great too.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

I know we'll have many suggestions, so I'll add just two three:

> Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black.

> Pelikan Edelstein Topaz.

> Pilot tsuki-yo.

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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R&K inks.

...

R&K Alt goldgrun is an ink that takes a bit to get use too but one one needs there after in life.

 

I'm going to order some Alt Goldgrun soon for my m400 white tortoise, why do say it takes a little getting used to?

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Rohrer & Kligner and J. Herbin (standard non-1670) all work very well. The colours are fairly neutral and organic feeling and flow quite wet (especially when paired with Pelikan nibs). They are generally easy to clean out (barring the IG R&K, but even that shouldn't cause too much issue) too.

 

My personal favourite is J. Herbin's Lie de The, as it offers nice shading and is neutral enough to use in professional documents.

“My two fingers on a typewriter have never connected with my brain. My hand on a pen does. A fountain pen, of course. Ball-point pens are only good for filling out forms on a plane.”

Graham Greene

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Ajax, it flirts with murky, it's not really gold, nor quite green. 90g laser paper is a basis of what sort of paper you should have. Out side of some 70g Japanese paper and 80g Rhoda paper...80g paper is not good for writing on.

Ink Jet paper should never, ever used for a fountain pen....in it feathers....absorbs ink too fast to make the ink shade. To shade, first the paper must let the ink sit on top of it for a second before full absorption, so you can get two tones. Second good paper cuts down on feathering or the rough line.***

 

Good to better paper costs a can of Coke or cup of Starbucks coffee or two for the better papers.

Good papers allows shading. Alt Goldgrun is a very good shading ink.

 

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

Look it up in the Ink Review...perhaps Sandy1 has done a review on it.

She is our Ink Guru. She takes 5 normal width nibbed pens, and 5 good to better 'affordable papers and shows you the huge differences nib width and paper can make with the tone of an ink.

 

She doesn't use a semi-flex nib in many don't have one.

 

I'm a bit OCD/AR on a rough line or feathering when I write....using good to better paper of course.

 

BEF= bare eye feathering...can see a rough line and or feathering while sitting.

NEF= near eye feathering, when brought to the eye a rough line and or feathering is seen.

I have a big honking thick magnifying glass....There is no need to get out your 10X loupe...that's even a bit too OCD/AR even for me.

MagF = feathering or a rough line, seen only under magnification. A good ink, worth buying again.

NoMagF= no feathering or rough lines seen at all...even under magnification. Buy that Ink...remember what paper you used. Mark this in your ink, paper and pen chart.*** Use a highlighter. always have a bottle of this ink in reserve unopened.

 

***dam I knew I forgot something. :P

 

Oh, use the very best index cards...which found in some thread here. I not living in the States....forgot to get some the last time I flew in. There is a big difference in index cards too.

When I think about it.... :rolleyes: I might actually know what ink is in my pen. ;)

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Hi,

 

I know we'll have many suggestions, so I'll add just two three:

> Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black.

> Pelikan Edelstein Topaz.

> Pilot tsuki-yo.

 

Bye,

S1

I will second your vote for the Edelstein Topaz. I have it in my M805 Stresemann broad nib and it is a very good-looking, well-behaved ink.

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I have been using R&K Salix with a broad nibbed M800 and M805 for a couple of weeks now. I have to say that the ink is stunning, starts blue and darkens over time and is also wetter than 4001 Blue Black. Definetely a go with a Pelikan broad nib.

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