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New To Pelikan - Best Nib (For Me) For M1005?

pelikan m1000 m1005 demonstrator nib

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7 replies to this topic

#1 welcmhm



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Posted 19 January 2016 - 00:23

Hi all,


I've been searching hi and low for a good comparison of Pelikan's M1000/1005 nibs.  There are many resources available, but I can't seem to find both a good comparison a M1000/1005 nibs and comparisons against nibs of pens that I am familiar with.  I am looking to purchase an M1005 and am torn between a F and a M.


I have smallish handwriting, but I enjoy inks and their various colors and shadings and find that I prefer to lay down a thicker line and try to write larger than I have in the past to be able to better appreciate them.  I have a cross Century II with a M nib (steel), which is just fine for me for everyday use.  I have 3 Visconti's (all with dreamtouch nibs), 2 of them are F nibs which are also great for everyday use, but which also put down a decent amount of ink and get some line variation (which I love and hope to get out of the Pelikan).  The third Visconti is a M nib, which is usable for everyday, but a little on the wide/heavy side (though I do love it for letters and notes to family, friends, etc.).  I also have a TWSBI Eco in the 1.1 stub which isn't really usable everyday, but I absolutely love for correspondence (so much so that I have a second coming in soon so that I can have them inked in different colors or have one inked while cleaning the other).


I wouldn't mind if this pen were mostly used for correspondence, but my preference would be one that could pull double duty and be used for everyday writing as well as laying down a good amount of ink for correspondence.  If anyone with experience with Pelikans has any suggestions as to whether I'd be better off with a fine or medium nib, I'd greatly appreciate it.

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#2 alaskazimm


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Posted 19 January 2016 - 01:00

If you are buying new, you can get one or the other and if it doesn't suit you Pelikan has a 4 week exchange period on nibs.


In your case I would suggest starting out with the M and writing with that for a few weeks. That should give you a good idea if you want finer or broader; then you can exchange for a F or B as needed.

#3 masterguns



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Posted 19 January 2016 - 01:03

I'll chime in with my Pelikan journey.


My first M1000 came with an F nib, but at the time I really preferred writing on the smaller side, so I did the nib exchange for an EF. The F was just a little too much for me, and I found the EF to be perfect. A few months later I picked up another M1000, this time with an M nib. I was a little concerned that M would be too much for me, but it really wasn't. It lays down a nice, wet line. Depending on which pen I'm using, I simply adjust my writing style to match. Both nibs are great, and I enjoy having some variety. Both nibs are springy, so each will give a little line variation if I apply slight pressure, but nothing major. I currently have another M1000 inbound with an OBB nib just because I really like options. My tastes have changed over time, so its nice to be able to ink up a pen with the nib I feel like using. 


As a point of reference in your case, I have the Dreamtouch 1.3 stub. I find that the wetness and springiness of both M1000 and Pelikan are about the same to me. It sounds to me that you'd be best served with an F nib. Keep in mind that if you buy the pen from an authorized dealer, you can do a nib swap with Chartpak if you find your choice to not be what you thought it might.


Best of luck.

#4 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 19 January 2016 - 01:12

Get the F, in the nib is semi-flex. That means the first letter will be a bit wider and depending on what the last letter of a word is, part of that may be a bit wider also.

Also as some one new to semi-flex....unless you already have a light Hand, it will write fatter than F, until your Hand lightens up.


If you get a calligraphy book, there are certain descenders you can/could occasionally make a bit fancy....a bit of it up to 3 X a light down stroke. Most of the descender would be going from 1 X to 2 X.

I do warn against doing that often in that you could unconsciously stretch the performance by wanting just a bit more.

The problem is it is a modern18 K gold and not the vintage 18K alloy so could bend and stay bent. Vintage was better. Ham Fisted =$$$$. Hold the pen lightly like a featherless baby bird...and don't make baby bird paste.


Cross is a nail. I don't know about your Dream Touch.


Is Dream Touch the old 'true' regular flex or is it a 'Springy' nib like a modern MB or a Falcon. That is a nib that has nice tine bend but only goes 2X on tine spread. If so semi-flex is like a 'Springy' ++ nib, in you do have a max tine spread of 3X...it is hard work to try and max to 3 X all the time....And should not be done.


The 1000 is a big pen; Over Sized (and for an un-posted pen...long)...you have to let it settle in your hand where it wants....if it want's to settle just behind the big knuckle at 45 degrees let it, but I think if your grip is light it might feel lighter at 40 degrees at the start of the web of your thumb....or even at 35 degrees resting it's weight in the pit of the web of your thumb.


The lighter you hold the pen, the lower it will settle in your grip.

The less pressure you apply to the nib by holding the pen hard to maintain a high grip angle the better. The narrower the line....that should you wish to double the line for variation it can be done with no big effort. It is semi-flex.


Heavy handedness comes from gripping a pen too hard....striving to hold it at a higher angle than it's weight and length would like.


I am speaking in general because of the 18 K nib. I don't have either Oversized pens, MB149 or 1000. I find them too big for me. I do have some Large pens, and semi-flex mostly in Standard or medium-large pens, 14 K or steel nibs (in steel, Osmia/Geha nibs)....some 26 or so. They spring back well. I have no fear of those nibs bending and staying bent.




Modern Pelikan is reputed to be wider than semi-vintage or vintage. I do not know if that is also for the 1000's nib. It is on the 800/600/400. So an F would/could be an F-M and add the ease of flex write more to a M, if your hand is not light......(There is always slop/tolerance. You should ask for the nib to be tested and get something in the middle of tolerance. In every pen company a Skinny M can = exactly a Fat F.


I made a mistake when swapping in a M nib on an MB for a B nib and got a fat B=BB. I should have told them a middle of tolerance B...or even a thin B. 


You do have some 5 weeks to swap in your Pelikan nib for an EF if F is too wide or for M if it is too narrow for you. If you do swap in the nib ask for middle of the tolerance.


In each company's standards are different, a F could be a F-M or M, in another company's standards. & Then you add tolerance so it's never going to be exact this that or the other size.


What you want is that it writes narrower than your Cross M nib...when using a very light Hand.

As I said semi-flex will write wider when one is Ham Fisted. :blush:  I was still Ham Fisted when I got my first semi-flex a 140. :puddle: :drool: When I put it to my thumb, I knew what all the fuss was all about.

It took me some three months to go from Ham Fisted to slightly ham fisted. :rolleyes:


The good thing about semi-flex is line variation happens with out you having to do much to anything. Your normal writing pressure will give you line variation.

Add proper papers and inks and you are off to the races.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 19 January 2016 - 12:19.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,


The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.




#5 welcmhm



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Posted 19 January 2016 - 01:19

Thank you both for the advice.  Unfortunately, as the M1005 was a limited production, I haven't found it at any authorized retailers yet.

#6 welcmhm



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Posted 19 January 2016 - 01:28

Thank you Bo Bo.  The Dreamtouch nibs seem to be what you term a 'springy' nib.  I can easily get about 2x tine spread with a moderate amount of pressure and could probably get 3x, but don't want to push my pens in that way.


I appreciate everyone's help!

#7 sargetalon


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Posted 19 January 2016 - 03:22

Based on what you describe, I would lean towards an F nib.  The M1000 puts down a very wet and generous line.  I think that the F nib would be a bit more versatile for you for everyday writing.  The medium might come across as a bit too broad.  Both are great nibs though.  Good luck with your final decision.

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#8 welcmhm



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Posted 26 January 2016 - 04:47

Thank you all for the advice. First, despite what I think is an excellent price, I went against the m1005 demonstrator and bought a black-green m1000. I really wanted the writing experience this nib offers, and while I like demonstrators, I wouldn't want a pen this expensive to end up stained. Second, I ended up going with the medium. While I agree that a fine would most likely match my writing style best, I think I'd prefer to try to broaden my experiences with the medium. As was mentioned, I could always exchange the nib. Another plus is that a medium would allow for more options for custom grinds later should I choose to go that way (I have a couple of TWSBI Eco stubs which I really enjoy). Again, thanks to everyone for the advice!

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