Hello, I am applying for help with this strange problem. I've bought via Ebay this Swan and have been able to disassemble, clean and polish it to a quite satisfactory extent. I am currently waiting for a replacement sac. I have noticed however that the thread does not allow to screw the cap to full closure. It looks like the pen is too long for the barrel's thread to fully grip the cap's one. I noticed that if I remove the section from the barrel, I have no problem in screwing the cap firmly in. The issue is not with the nib and feed being too long, because the problem comes up even when the nib and feed are removed. I have wondered whether the section is possibly not the original one. However the name Swan is engraved on the section. Maybe a Swan specialist here could tell me if he knows of Swan having used considerably different section lenghts. I am enclosing some pictures of the pen.
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Posted 04 January 2016 - 00:47
Most likely the nib is out too far. Try to set the nib and feed deeper and see if that does the trick.
You can also make a quick and easy depth gauge to check the difference in length from the deepest part of the inner cap to the lip of the inner cap. I have two narrow wood rods (the blunt ends of wood skewers) held together with twist ties. Push one against the inner cap lip, slide the other down to the far inside end of the cap, and remove the unit. Compare the ends of the sticks you pushed inside to your section and nib set up to see if the nib is hitting the end of the cap or if it has enough clearance.
Pics to follow
Posted 04 January 2016 - 00:54
In case you are more visual, or in case my explanation was not worded well.......
Posted 04 January 2016 - 01:53
Does the cap have an inner cap?
If so the inner cap may have "let go" & isn't deep enough in the cap, or else the inner cap has broken radially & the part nearest the opening has slid towards the opening; in either case I suspect that there's an inner cap making contact with the section too soon. This is consistent with your observation that the cap doesn't screw on properly even with the nib/feed removed.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 02:46
I found the source of the contradictory responses.
(from the OP)
" I noticed that if I remove the section from the barrel, I have no problem in screwing the cap firmly in. The issue is not with the nib and feed being too long, because the problem comes up even when the nib and feed are removed."
We will need a clarification regarding contradictory the trouble shooting comments.
For the first statement: " I noticed that if I remove the section from the barrel, I have no problem in screwing the cap firmly in." - use my suggestion
For the second statement: "The issue is not with the nib and feed being too long, because the problem comes up even when the nib and feed are removed." - use the advice from Viclip.
Good Luck! Swans are usually a pleasure to use once you get the problem straightened out.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 07:15
Posted 04 January 2016 - 07:32
So - which is it? When you remove the section and nib, does the barrel screw on well, or still not catching? That will change the advice a great deal.
If you have a good light - look inside to see if there is anything strange about the inner cap, or just some crud, or maybe even something up inside the cap - it happens.
All of the pen parts look correct to me, and the nib is not that far out. Sometimes the cap threads are stripped - which is a different problem altogether.
I can offer different or better advice if you clarify for us if the cap screws on tight with the section and nib removed.
Edited by Greenie, 04 January 2016 - 07:37.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 08:38
Edited by pieemme, 04 January 2016 - 08:39.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 10:17
Same thing on my swan self filler 3120. Even if the nib/feed is removed, the cap don't screws completely. if i remove the section too, it screws a lot further.
Maybe a design lack of that kind of pens?
Edited by drop_m, 04 January 2016 - 10:26.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 16:19
I have been checking out both ideas: in fact the inner cap doesn't seem to have moved. I tried pushing it back, but it made a rather strong resistence, so I chose not to insist, before finding out the correct way to disassemble the inner cap.
I also measured the distances with the 2 sticks. It looks like there's enough room for the lib&feed and that was never the issue anyway. If I find no better option, and as it is a matter of a couple of millimeters, I am very tempted to shorten the top of the section by carefully shaving away some of the hard rubber collar.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 16:57
If the cap allows you to screw it a couple of twist - as in my case - i think it's enough to prevent evaporation of any sort.
with mine, which i use periodically, i screw the cap as tight as it goes - without forcing it too much, of course - and i never had any problem
Posted 04 January 2016 - 17:33
In my case it just screws half a turn and then comes free again. In fact, it is not engaging the thread.
Edited by pieemme, 04 January 2016 - 17:33.
Posted 04 January 2016 - 21:37
Aha. Now I finally understand what I kept misreading! You were clear, and I just didn't get it.
It reminds me of a snarky saying. "I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you." So I feel pretty foolish, but will gladly admit it in hopes that I can now contribute something useful instead of useless as I did above.
With the long distal flared out portion on this particular section, you can shave it down little by little until the threads engage. This should not alter the function or look of the section. It takes surprisingly little material removal to make this work.
(Another option is to try to tighten the barrel threads with heat and a band clamp, but that can leave a mark on the cap if you are not careful.)
Posted 05 January 2016 - 02:13
Inner caps are often fouled with an unbelievable amount of dried ink.
Any chance that there's a "ring" of dried ink which is intercepting the section before the section snugs up against the inner cap?
Posted 05 January 2016 - 12:07
Thanks viclip and Greenie, your ideas made a lot of sense. I tried to scrape the inner cap with a sharpened screwdriver. However very little came off and it didn't have the kind of irregular lip that I was expecting. So I used the 2 skewers method and measured the distances. Then I took some toothpaste (which I also use for polishing) and marked the bottom of the cap when screwed on without the section. The distance was about one mm or less, therefore I decided to go for the shaving option. I took my section and sandpapered some material off the section's top.
Lo and behold: my cap now closes snugly and precisely, with nib and feed on. I just wonder how the previous owner managed to use this pen.
Edited by pieemme, 05 January 2016 - 12:22.
Posted 06 January 2016 - 03:24
Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear it all works now.
So - how does it write?
Posted 06 January 2016 - 14:09
i'm glad you solved the problem! Hope to see some writing samples, Mabie Todd pens have fantastic nibs
Posted 11 January 2016 - 21:51
At last the sac arrived and I was able to fill my Mabie Todd 6260. Truly a great writer, with great line variation. Here it is, between a Conway Stewart 388 and an Esterbrook Relief, three lovely British oldies, all of them wonderful writers. Maybe my favourite one is my buttery CS.
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