Woodbin Thin-Wall Or Regular "silicone" Sacs For Sheaffer Converter?

[mhosea]

I want to re-sac several of the squeeze converters I use on various Sheaffer C/C pens. I'd like to use the "silicone" (presumably PVC) sacs from Woodbin for robustness and longevity, but I'm not sure whether to get the regular or thin-wall sacs for this purpose. I had a spare #16 thin-wall, and this works fine, but if the regular ones are the same stuff and just have thicker walls, then I would think that would be better. What do you think? Are they the same stuff? I don't want pure silicone for this (I even have some of those on-hand already if I did).

[Seville]

Hey Mike,

 

I believe that they are the same stuff. If I am wrong I suspect that something big will land on my head.

Since you are using squeeze converters I don't think that it will matter which ones you use. Now if you were talking about some British mid range lever fillers that would be another story.

 

All the best

 

Philip

[mhosea]

Thanks.

[Ron Z]

The Woodbin silicone sacs are PVC, both thin and regular walled. The thick ones are made only in even number sizes i.e. 14, 16, 18 etc, the thin walled are odd numbered half sizes i.e.14 1/2, 15 1/2, 17 1/2, which was used for the snorkel, TD and PFM respectively.

 

The thinner sacs were made on the belief that the thinner sac would compress more easily, and therefore the pen would fill more easily. They do compress more easily, but because the wall is thinner they don't have the strength to return to their original position, so can't draw in as much ink. The fact that snorkel sacs and Richard Binder and I got from the Sheaffer were decidedly not thin walled, but were regular sacs confirmed our belief. I still use the 15 1/2 and 17 1/2 sacs because they fit into the sac guard, where the 16 and 18 will not. But I use regular #14 synthetic sacs in snorkels.

 

I it is my considered and experienced opinion that a synthetic sac (and I use the ones from Woodbin) should be used in snorkels, and never latex sacs, whether you use 14 or 14 1/2. The latex sac will break down, and its failure can lead to expensive damage i.e rusting of the spring, rusting of the spring to the ring on the sac guard, rusting of the blind cap screw etc, which can be pretty much eliminated with the use of a synthetic sac. I've also seen early failure of latex sacs in the pens with sac guards regardless the source.

[mhosea]

I it is my considered and experienced opinion that a synthetic sac (and I use the ones from Woodbin) should be used in snorkels, and never latex sacs, whether you use 14 or 14 1/2.

Yes, I'm a believer. I followed your advice and changed my snorkels and touchdowns to the synthetic ones from Woodbin.

 

I just ordered a batch of #16's for my black-plug Sheaffer squeeze converters. When I remove the latex sacs of these converters, they seem to have held up pretty well (most have seen scant use over the last 30-ish years, I guess), but I don't trust them, and I'm never quite sure of what kind of shape they're really in until I remove them.

Edited November 9, 2015 by mhosea

[mhosea]

Hey Mike,

 

I believe that they are the same stuff. If I am wrong I suspect that something big will land on my head.

Since you are using squeeze converters I don't think that it will matter which ones you use. Now if you were talking about some British mid range lever fillers that would be another story.

 

All the best

 

Philip

 

Got them in today. Sure looks like the same stuff to me. I do like the thicker ones (the non-thin ones, rather) a bit better for this application. Thanks again, Philip.

[jspen765]

Mike:

 

I use standard walled PVC/Silicone sacs in squeeze converters from Sheaffer or Parker. They are a little thicker hence I hope more durable when my clumsy fingers squeeze them.

 

Plus I like seeing the ink stain them. I have even checked how much ink I get in them a time or two.

 

More importantly Ron Z's reasons for using PVC/Silicone sacs in metal housings like Snorkels, Touchdowns, and Converters are pretty strong. He makes a compelling argument.

 

Jon the Eclectic Penner.

[adyf]

Yes, I'm a believer. I followed your advice and changed my snorkels and touchdowns to the synthetic ones from Woodbin.I just ordered a batch of #16's for my black-plug Sheaffer squeeze converters. When I remove the latex sacs of these converters, they seem to have held up pretty well (most have seen scant use over the last 30-ish years, I guess), but I don't trust them, and I'm never quite sure of what kind of shape they're really in until I remove them.

I've got a Sheaffer converter that requires a new sac, never contemplated being able to resac it myself. So thanks for the tip, is the black plug in the end of the converter easy to remove?

[mhosea]

I've got a Sheaffer converter that requires a new sac, never contemplated being able to resac it myself. So thanks for the tip, is the black plug in the end of the converter easy to remove?

Varies depending on how deeply it was staked. Use heat. I hook it through the opening and pull while heating. If you can get a little movement, it can be wiggled out with with fingernails under the edge. It's easy to damage the opening, so take care with whatever you're using to hook it. I suppose the best practice is to flatten the metal where it was previously staked before reassembling, then re-stake it. Sometimes I don't. Note that there is a slot for the squeeze bar. I like to slide the squeeze bar out about a half mm to make sure it's in the slot.

[Ron Z]

I suppose the best practice is to flatten the metal where it was previously staked before reassembling, then re-stake it.

 

It is. Flattening the wall of the converter makes it easier to put the plug back in the casing. Staking it again helps to ensure that the plug doesn't get left behind when you remove the converter. This could be a real issue if ink leaks around the seal on the piercing tube and dries, which makes taking the converter out entertaining enough. We don't need to add the thrill of getting the stuck plug off down in the section threads as well.

 

I love that emoticon. I wish I had a poster size, or at least a picture size, image of it to hang on my shop wall.

[adyf]

Thanks Mike and Ron, I don't suppose I've anything to lose by giving it a try. That is, as long as the black plug holds firm in the converter after reassembly .

[3rdlakerobert]

Is there a source for PVC sacs now that Martin (Woodbin) has passed?

[Ron Z]

Not that I know of. His daughter was helping him. I hope that she will either pick up the business once ownership is settled, or maybe sell it to someone in Canada. He provided a niche service that an awful lot of people depended on, not just pen mechanics.