Proper Way To Polish Plastics On Fountain Pens?

[gregamckinney]

On the question of the modern balance material: after speaking with Ron at the Ohio Pen Show, I defer to his knowledge! By the way, it is always a pleasure to interact with Ron, a real class act.

 

Was the material in question the golden-marble-colored 'Aspen' (I think it was called) or the 'Jungle Green' of the Balance LEs?

My experience with the latter is that it is incredibly fragile. I've also heard many stories regarding the former, but no personal experience.

Regards, greg

[tryphon]

It was the Aspen, mainly, but I have had other Balance pens disintegrate, in the red, blue and the tan and black resins.

[3rdlakerobert]

According to Howard Levey, the acrylic used in the marbled Balance II pens was a compressed acrylic, so there were stresses built into the material before the pen was machined. The result is that the stresses spontaneously let go, causing cracks to appear in the material. It isn't decay, its the stuff letting go. What I have been told by other sources is that Sheaffer goofed and ordered much more than was needed for the pens, which is why the rod stock has been appearing in other pens since then... Its properties also explain why Bexley and other companies will do things like use black acrylic on cap lips and barrel threads.

 

It's horrible stuff to machine because of its low melting point. You have to liquid cool it to machine it. I have some, and will never use it to make a pen. It is also cross linked in such a way that only one solvent will fuse it when you need to make a repair.

 

I'd say the problem is not the material but the pen design or manufacturing process. I've made a couple dozen pens with these old Sheaffer blanks. It's very heat sensitive and the going is slow, but the results are worth it, in my opinion.

 

After working with it, I'm inclined to believe that Sheaffer was careless. You have to allow for the rapid heat buildup or the material will become damaged, sometimes imperceptibly.

 

I don't have any photos of my pens any more, but a photo of one I made last January is available on the IAP site:

 

http://www.penturners.org/photos/index.php?n=27817

[tryphon]

 

I'd say the problem is not the material but the pen design or manufacturing process. I've made a couple dozen pens with these old Sheaffer blanks. It's very heat sensitive and the going is slow, but the results are worth it, in my opinion.

 

After working with it, I'm inclined to believe that Sheaffer was careless. You have to allow for the rapid heat buildup or the material will become damaged, sometimes imperceptibly.

 

I don't have any photos of my pens any more, but a photo of one I made last January is available on the IAP site:

 

http://www.penturners.org/photos/index.php?n=27817

That is a truly gorgeous pen!!!

[bobje]

Are there finishes or processes that coat or treat the surfaces of pens, including furniture, barrels, finials, etc., to help pre-empt wear or brassing? For example, does Micro-Gloss Polish serve as a coating or preventative protection?

[tryphon]

Bob, as a protectant, in my experience nothing beats Novus #1 (the liquid one)

Edited November 20, 2015 by tryphon

[kirchh]

Bob, as a protectant, in my experience nothing beats Novus #3 (the liquid one)

 

I don't recommend Novus 3; it's quite abrasive.

 

--Daniel

[JonSzanto]

 

I don't recommend Novus 3; it's quite abrasive.

 

--Daniel

 

I'm more than willing to bet that Giovanni actually meant Novus #1 - his description (the liquid one) is apt, as it appears to look just like water, not a cream or paste like the actual #2 and 3.

[tryphon]

You are correct. My mistake. I will amend my post. Thanks, Jon!

[bobje]

Giovanni, will pick some up. Thank you.

[kirchh]

Novus 1 is a cleaner/polish that leaves behind a film of silicone for gloss. I don't like the way it makes pens feel.

 

--Daniel

[JonSzanto]

Novus 1 is a cleaner/polish that leaves behind a film of silicone for gloss. I don't like the way it makes pens feel.

 

I don't like steamed spinach, so I just don't eat it. Some people think it's the greatest thing ever, and hey, they can eat all they want, as far as I'm concerned.

[kirchh]

 

I don't like steamed spinach, so I just don't eat it. Some people think it's the greatest thing ever, and hey, they can eat all they want, as far as I'm concerned.

 

Exactly! And people who have not tried it might be interested in whether you like it, and why or why not.

 

--Daniel

[bobje]

As a non-abrasive polish, Richard Binder also recommends Flitz Metal Polish on his "Care and Feeding: How to Pamper Your Pens" resource page. Would this help pre-empt wear?

[kirchh]

As a non-abrasive polish, Richard Binder also recommends Flitz Metal Polish on his "Care and Feeding: How to Pamper Your Pens" resource page. Would this help pre-empt wear?

Flitz is abrasive.

 

--Daniel

[pen2paper]

Hi Bob. With sincere and due respect to Mr. Binder, and understanding that pen repair - conservation is not my business or hobby, I can state Flitz acts as an abrasive in my own experience. Old Sheffield Plate can quickly become 18th C. old sheffield copper in a startling "poof" second by applying Flitz with a conservative light touch, using cotton as Mr. Binder suggests.

 

As always, your pen (or object), your choice. I throw in my supportive two cents as new ones arrive here with old pens, (sometimes inherited), wondering how to restore what may be a fragile remaining surface. So why not share the most conservative approach as a first step?

 

The repeated point from the Experts above, is once the surface is abraded or gone you may not be able to go back, or it's expensive to do so, and original age character that some prefer is gone.

[bobje]

Daniel and pen2paper, thank you. Are there products you would recommend using to help prevent or pre-empt wear?

[JonSzanto]

The best preventative for wear on a pen is to use reasonable care. When you transport it, have a good pen case; when you have it at home, store or set it in a manner that keeps it from physical abrasion. Your pen is not going to wear out by simply holding it and using it. Every so often, wipe it with a soft cloth to remove oils and dirt from your hands.

[kirchh]

The best way to reduce wear on a pen is to have more pens. See? You're engaging in conservation when you buy pens. Good for you.

 

--Daniel

[GTVi]

I never polish with any compound, I only clean with a soft cloth. If the plastic gets to a stage where it has fine scratches, then it is already damaged, and is better left as is. But everyone has their own methods of what works best for them. Wax does not remove scratches it only fills them in.