There is no 'silver bullet' to your problem.
The lump on your finger tells me that you are gripping you pen TIGHT.
- So first thing is to loosen your grip. Your grip should be light enough that someone can easily pull the pen out from your hand.
- You also need to use a light pen. Forget the heavy 20+ gram pens. The Lamy 2000 is 25 grams. Get something like a vintage Parker 45, it is down at 15 grams, or a Sheaffer school or 'no-nonsense' pen.
- You need a pen that fits YOUR hand. Some people feel more comfortable with a slim pen, others prefer a fatter pen. This is an individual fit. I prefer slim pens, others prefer FAT pens.
- The pen needs to balance well in your hand, so you don't have to grip the pen tight to keep the back of the pen from lifting the front of the pen. In some cases, all it takes is to use the pen unposted. In other cases, you need to change pens.
- Next thing to learn is arm writing. If you write with your fingers, you are using the small finger muscles. Those will get tired relatively quickly, compared to the larger arm muscles. Converting from a finger writer to an arm writer requires dedication. I practiced 1 to 3 hours a day, EVERYDAY, for 3 months, before arm writing became natural for me, and many more months after that before I felt my handwriting with my arm looked good. This is because I was training muscles that have never done fine motor movements, to do the fine motor movements of writing. And building muscles memory requires repetition, over and over and over ....
Now for the smoothness.
This is not just determined by just the pen.
Smoothness is affected by 4 variables, any of which can turn a smooth writing experience into a bad scratchy experience.
These variables are: the pen, the ink, the paper, you the writer.
And there is another item 'wetness' which is an interaction between the pen and the ink.
- the pen. This is the one that is commonly targeted, as you are. And there are a few items here; the profile of the tipping, the smoothness of the tipping, the size of the tipping, the wetness or ink flow.
- - The tip of the nib has to be in alignment. 80% of the scratchy nibs I run into have been fixed just by aligning the nib.
- - The tip has to be round and SMOOTH where it contacts the paper. If the tip on your pen has a different profile, the tip needs to be shaped to round off any sharp corners. Many vintage pens have this problem.
- - The finer the nib the scratchier it will feel. This is because the finer nib will follow the texture of the paper more than a wider nib.
- - The nib's ink flow is a factor in wetness.
- the ink. Some inks provide better lubrication to the tip of the nib than others. Not enough ink and you don't have enough lubrication, and the nib will have too much drag/friction on the paper.
- the paper. The finer the nib you use, the smoother and harder the paper has to be to give you a smooth writing experience. IOW, you cannot just just any paper. You NEED to shop for fountain pen friendly paper. And more specifically, paper that will match your nib. Textured paper is BAD for a fountain pen, especially a fine nib pen.
- you the writer. If you press the pen into the paper, you are increasing the friction between the pen and the paper. More friction = more drag and scratchy feel. You need to write with a very light hand, almost no downward pressure on the pen.
- wetness. This is an interaction between the pen's ability to flow ink, and the ink's viscosity.
A dry pen with dry ink will skip or not even write.
A wet pen with wet ink will flow too much ink onto the paper.
The match is a dry pen with a wet ink or a wet pen with a dry ink.
Having said this, the pen can be adjusted to flow more or less ink, so you can adjust the pen to write with a specific ink.
Edited by ac12, 03 November 2015 - 17:29.