How To Get A Sac Tray Out Of A J?

[TeaHive]

Got a beautiful red J in the mail, pulled out the section to clean out the ossified sac, and was met with about the oddest sight I've seen yet inside a pen:

 

The sac tray on this Estie is not across from the lever, but to the side of it. And the J bar was to the other side! So, in order to make this work as normal.. how exactly does one get the tray out of the barrel? It appears to be glued on, and I can't reposition the J bar where it should be because the tray's bottom edge/shelf would push it too far to the side of the lever. (Honestly.. who the heck "fixed" this pen up last?)

 

I suppose I could just leave out the j-bar, put on a new sac and fill it by removing the nib and using a blunt syringe, but... goodness.

[pen lady]

Have you tried soaking everything? If you can pull the J bar out to prevent it rusting, it may be that the sac tray is just stuck with old dried ink.

[Hobiwan]

Pretty on the outside, trashed on the inside. I've run into more than a few of those over the years ...

 

It's not usual to have the tray glued, of course. it seats into the slot that also houses the wire holding the lever. It might just be "very stuck" by ink that formed around it from the ossified sac.

 

If you have a sharp,thin tool (like a scalpel or thin pointed woodworking tool or thin small penknife blade), try to wedge it under the tray and just "pop" it up using an upward lift (staying away from pressure on the barrel lip, of course). I've also been able to yank it forward and out, using a hook, fashioned from a pointed wire curtain hanger. You may have to "saw" your way under it, to get past the spilled ink glue.

 

It'll either be slow, tedious and frustrating, or you'll get a satisfaction-producing "pop" as it unseats.

 

That's how I've done it. Maybe someone else has another method and will hopefully weigh in ....

 

Good Luck.

[TeaHive]

Thanks for the responses! I haven't tried anything yet, aside from pulling the j-bar out, as I wanted to know what lay ahead of me beforehand. I'll give it a go with soaking then attempting to pop it out, and see what happens!

[TeaHive]

Immediate update: I found a crochet hook hooked under the bottom shelf makes a GREAT tool for pulling these trays out!

[FarmBoy]

Paul,

I've never run into a tray that was glued in but I suppose it could happen. I do not believe they were glued in place at the factory but an over zealous restorer may have done so.

Perhaps it is time we get Brian to share the tray removal tool found in the Esterbrook tool kit??? OR do you have the tool kit now??

Todd

[Hobiwan]

Paul,

I've never run into a tray that was glued in but I suppose it could happen. I do not believe they were glued in place at the factory but an over zealous restorer may have done so.

Perhaps it is time we get Brian to share the tray removal tool found in the Esterbrook tool kit??? OR do you have the tool kit now??

Todd

 

I've never seen a glued-in tray either, but yer right, no telling what a misinformed restorer might attempt ... many stories on that subject would make a long thread unto itself, eh?

 

This is the first I've heard of an Esty tool kit. Is it one made by the Company, or Brian's origination? And yes, I too would like to see it.

 

My tools are all self-created/appropriated from various items/tools found/made over the years as the need arose for specific repairs. The "hooks" of various sizes for removing molten sacs glued inside barrels and all manner of J-bars (especially those early Sheaffer lifetimes ), were made from heavy wire curtain hangers; The "section grips" are various types of oddball "pliers" with open or rounded-out grips; long, thin shaved-down small screwdriver for removing snorkel and TD knobs; Bell System waxed 6-cord for re-stuffing Chilton sleeve, etc. Maybe one day we should have a "Show off your tools" thread ....

[Hobiwan]

Immediate update: I found a crochet hook hooked under the bottom shelf makes a GREAT tool for pulling these trays out!

 

Well done! Another cool pen tool for the collection.

[DanDeM]

I keep three sizes of crochet hooks in the kit…on loan from my wife I am regularly reminded.

 

Great tools for snagging and dragging.

[TeaHive]

I guess all the dried up ink looked like glue creeping up over the top edge of the tray. But no, no glue was actually involved. Though I wouldn't have been surprised given the inner anatomy I was greeted with upon opening. ^_^; Oi vey..

[OcalaFlGuy]

 

My tools are all self-created/appropriated from various items/tools found/made over the years as the need arose for specific repairs. The "hooks" of various sizes for removing molten sacs glued inside barrels and all manner of J-bars (especially those early Sheaffer lifetimes ), were made from heavy wire curtain hangers; The "section grips" are various types of oddball "pliers" with open or rounded-out grips; long, thin shaved-down small screwdriver for removing snorkel and TD knobs; Bell System waxed 6-cord for re-stuffing Chilton sleeve, etc. Maybe one day we should have a "Show off your tools" thread ....

 

Ok, I'll play, here's my Official Hobiwan Ring-Tray tool.

 

 

(No, really. The bottom one Paul made for me.)

 

TeaHive, the best advice I can give you about messing with the trays is, Don't. They can be a bear to get back in.

 

If I have one that is askew as you did, my pucker factor goes up. If the tray gets part of the way out and hangs up, which I have had happen, Oh My Hell.

 

IF one Must be realigned, the way I do it is to stick my pinky finger in the barrel and use it to Push Down on the tray while I put a jewelers common screwdriver blade up against the side of the tray and Slowly edge it around into position directly under the lever. Keeping the tray in the slot and moving it very slowly are the objectives.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Edited September 25, 2015 by OcalaFlGuy

[TeaHive]

I don't intend to put it back in. I pitched it into my parts box to be forgotten. Imma just go with a larger ink sac and call it a day.

[jdllizard]

I don't intend to put it back in. I pitched it into my parts box to be forgotten. Imma just go with a larger ink sac and call it a day.

That was going to be my suggestion but didn't want to anger any of the purists (not that there are any here that'd care). Plus you'll have a larger ink capacity.

 

Well done on the resto!

Edited September 27, 2015 by jdllizard

[TeaHive]

That was going to be my suggestion but didn't want to anger any of the purists (not that there are any here that'd care). Plus you'll have a larger ink capacity.

 

Well done on the resto!

 

I didn't think the tray was going to be absolutely necessary, seeing as I have a Dollar Pen that didn't have one to start. And y'know.. countless other lever-fillers from other makers to use as an example.

 

I'm not going to go yanking 'em out of all my pens for the larger capacity, though. This one was just a special case, lol.

[OcalaFlGuy]

Be sure there is no slack in the larger sac on the smaller nipple. It should still be somewhat a snug fit.

 

Also keep in mind that with that miniscule amount of added ink capacity also comes about the same increased chance the pen may glop or run very wet on you from air/hand/ink temperature changes.

 

I generally use the #16s unless I know that I am working with a larger diameter nipple/section from a Tranny or Dollar pen.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Edited September 27, 2015 by OcalaFlGuy

[TeaHive]

Yep! I make sure all the sacs I replace are snug. To me, the #16 feels a bit too snug on the Esties. They always want to slide/pop right off when I get them onto the section nipple with shellac on it. So it's a mad dash to get my fingers to hold the sac on after I remove the sac spreader.

[OcalaFlGuy]

They always want to slide/pop right off when I get them onto the section nipple with shellac on it. So it's a mad dash to get my fingers to hold the sac on after I remove the sac spreader.

 

My issue is that nanosecond when you have to both Drop the tweezies you're holding AND instantly cinch the sac up at the same time...

 

I either get it on the 1st or 2nd try or it takes me 4 or 5 tries, no semi-easy median.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/297639-sand-papering-your-nipples-just-do-it/

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[gweimer1]

I give the shellac about 15-20 seconds before I put the sac on. Then, I gently roll my fingers around the sac where it connects to the section to help ensure a clean fit. I have a technique using some tweezers that allows me to use my index finger on my right hand to seat the sac, and then my left hand is free to complete the process when I put down the tweezers.

[TeaHive]

Awww yiss. I'm all about these tips.

 

Thanks!