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Enough Interest In Mabie Todd, Swan Or Otherwise? P7


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I would be willing to buy any of those disappointing Blackbird Top fillers! I have a pretty big and broad collection, and some pens just strike my fancy enough that it is OK if I can't get them working. These look nice enough in the tray that function was not my priority.

 

That being said, my un-restorable top filler has the incorrect nib and feed, but with the correct nib and feed I might try to see if my solution for restoration might actually work...

 

Finally, perhaps FPN needs a multi-national section if they won't allow MT to have its own forum. However, the brand specific is what makes it possible to discuss Parkers, Watermans, etc without breaking it up to UK, Canada, France, etc.

Exactly.

 

I switch constantly between USA and GB.

 

The Parker and Waterman's and Sheaffer enthusiasts do not have to do this. - and WE know about Mabie Todd don't we?!! :D

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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Got last week my P.R.2 with 18ct NY nib and Made in England. Maybe I should open two threads (when picture posting works again)? :) Sadly the last two mm of the axis broke of where the pin is. Though I have no idea when this happened. Will probably glue it with shellack once I have fitting O-rings so that it won't fall out.

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Got last week my P.R.2 with 18ct NY nib and Made in England. Maybe I should open two threads (when picture posting works again)? :) Sadly the last two mm of the axis broke of where the pin is. Though I have no idea when this happened. Will probably glue it with shellack once I have fitting O-rings so that it won't fall out.

May we see a picture?

 

Rgds

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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When my upload is working again, yes. Until then a link to the auctions:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391180879762

 

When my upload is working again, yes. Until then a link to the auctions:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391180879762

Thanks.

 

I'm pleased it arrived via resistrated (sic) mail!

 

I had no idea that MT produced safety pens; the 18ct nib is the clue. Obviously destined for France where safety pens seem to have enjoyed a great vogue. I have two French ones at present: one is a lovely Gold Starry and the other a fake Waterman's - called a Wattman; both are in mottled hard rubber. I have been working on them and will sell them soon - I have a black Waterman's 42 and two Whytewarths as well - all of which need to be fixed up.

 

There appears to have been a vigorous industry in France producing fake Waterman's pens - I have had a fake MHR 52 for example.

 

Incidentally, when you say "axis" do you mean the spiral? I have a spare Waterman's one from a 42 which might fit - in fact I have all the bits except the twist knob and nib. I doubt shellac would work; Devcon just might, but I have found that whilst BHR is difficult enough at the best of times, when it has been soaked in ink for 100 years, it's impossible.

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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Yes, I mean the axis from the spiral. It is just at the end. It is just, that the piece will not fall out of the knob which it probably will not do even without shellack. I doubt a Waterman spindle will work. I believe the axis diameter is to small.

 

The French have mostly a Waterman-like mechanism. In Germany, there is another mechanism common. I have made here a drawing:

http://www.penexchange.de/pen-wiki/index.php/Datei:Schemata_Deutsche_Fuellerdichtungskapseln.png

 

I wonder, if there are other regional mechanisms.

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Yes, I mean the axis from the spiral. It is just at the end. It is just, that the piece will not fall out of the knob which it probably will not do even without shellack. I doubt a Waterman spindle will work. I believe the axis diameter is to small.

 

The French have mostly a Waterman-like mechanism. In Germany, there is another mechanism common. I have made here a drawing:

http://www.penexchange.de/pen-wiki/index.php/Datei:Schemata_Deutsche_Fuellerdichtungskapseln.png

 

I wonder, if there are other regional mechanisms.

I have just measured the Waterman's spiral. It's OD is 7.59mm Overall length including its integral shaft is 61.2mm. Nominal shaft diameter is 4.3mm

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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It might really fit. Fascinating!

 

fpn_1436987379__swan_helix.jpg

On mine, the shaft part is 30.7mm long. There is a groove machined into it as the /waterman's system used an off-centre dowel to locate the shaft in the turning knob. You would have to file it flat and drill a suitable hole to accept your locating pin.

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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The groove in the Waterman's shaft would have been the most problematic spot until you mentioned the shaft length. Mine is about 2mm shorter, which means that the spiral is 2mm longer than the Waterman's.

 

Cepasaccus

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The spiral (I have it in front of me) measures 30.5mm; the groove is about 10mm long and about 1.25mm deep. Looking at your picture I would say that you could file down the shaft - across the groove - and have sufficient material left for your application.

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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I remeasured the length. It is totally 2mm shorter and this 2mm is missing from the shaft. So length seem to be ok. The thickness of the flattened shaft is 3.4mm, so 0.9mm is missing. This means the groove would still be visible.

 

Cepasaccus

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I put in some O-rings and assembled it. I doubt anything will move to where it shouldn't move. The end piece sits rather tight and to be sure I added some tiny droplets of shellack.

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I put in some O-rings and assembled it. I doubt anything will move to where it shouldn't move. The end piece sits rather tight and to be sure I added some tiny droplets of shellack.

Well I hope it works for you.

 

Were I to need the Waterman's spiral for your application - and I was concerned about the groove, I would fill it with Devcon mixed with lamp black and smooth it.

 

All the best.

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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I know a few of you who post here regularly, having exchanged emails with you or having benefited from your suggestions or valuable advice over the last few months during which I`ve been hunting for a very old fountain pen to add to my other possessions (I can`t say that I have a collection).

Recently I bought two such pens, both over 100 years old as far as I know.

Here`s one of them, please allow me to add a modest submission to this thread:

 

http://i.imgur.com/leNrV15.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/rctwRGl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/0GW05GF.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/LtGKdyq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1beOjAb.jpg

 

The seller took some photos with the section disassembled and I believe he didn`t put them back together the right way, so when the pen arrived, the feed and wire were rattling inside the barrel. I tried to put them back together and only succeeded with the help I received from some of you guys.

It writes now and it doesn`t leak on the paper, but the flow is not perfect and has a tendency to skip when I use it with inks other than Waterman Florida Blue. Even with this one still skips sometimes, but not as bad.

Even so, I`m very happy and proud to be the the owner of such a great writing instrument. And boy, what a feeling to actually use it!

It even has a box that also carries the Bard imprint, what more could I want?

Well, maybe a Chatelaine, a SF1, SF2, a Blackbird, an Eternal and so on. :)

All the best!

 

Parker 51 Vacumatic 0.7 Masuyama stub; TWSBI 540 M; TWSBI 580 1.1; Mabie, Todd and Bard 3200 stub; Waterman 14 Eyedropper F; 2 x Hero 616; several flexible dip nibs

owned for a time: Parker 45 flighter Pendleton stub, Parker 51 aerometric F, Parker 51 Special 0.7 Binder stub, Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel M, Lamy Joy Calligraphy 1.5 mm, Pelikan M200 M, Parker Vacumatic US Azure Blue M, Parker Vacumatic Canada Burgundy F, Waterman 12 Eyedropper, Mabie Todd SF2 flexible F

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I know a few of you who post here regularly, having exchanged emails with you or having benefited from your suggestions or valuable advice over the last few months during which I`ve been hunting for a very old fountain pen to add to my other possessions (I can`t say that I have a collection).

Recently I bought two such pens, both over 100 years old as far as I know.

Here`s one of them, please allow me to add a modest submission to this thread:

 

http://i.imgur.com/leNrV15.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/rctwRGl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/0GW05GF.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/LtGKdyq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1beOjAb.jpg

 

The seller took some photos with the section disassembled and I believe he didn`t put them back together the right way, so when the pen arrived, the feed and wire were rattling inside the barrel. I tried to put them back together and only succeeded with the help I received from some of you guys.

It writes now and it doesn`t leak on the paper, but the flow is not perfect and has a tendency to skip when I use it with inks other than Waterman Florida Blue. Even with this one still skips sometimes, but not as bad.

Even so, I`m very happy and proud to be the the owner of such a great writing instrument. And boy, what a feeling to actually use it!

It even has a box that also carries the Bard imprint, what more could I want?

Well, maybe a Chatelaine, a SF1, SF2, a Blackbird, an Eternal and so on. :)

All the best!

 

That's a lovely one I must say; I have a plain version, 3013. And like yours it has stayed a nice dark colour - very nearly black!

 

As for your skipping problems, well this could be due to misaligned tines or a "baby's bottom" at the tips. Alternatively - or perhaps as well, I found with a 1500 I had, that considerable differences in performance could be obtained by adjusting he position of the feed relative to the nib.

 

Best of luck with it.

 

Cob

fpn_1428963683__6s.jpg “The pen of the British Empire” fpn_1423349537__swan_sign_is.jpg


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I know a few of you who post here regularly, having exchanged emails with you or having benefited from your suggestions or valuable advice over the last few months during which I`ve been hunting for a very old fountain pen to add to my other possessions (I can`t say that I have a collection).

Recently I bought two such pens, both over 100 years old as far as I know.

Here`s one of them, please allow me to add a modest submission to this thread:

 

http://i.imgur.com/leNrV15.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/rctwRGl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/0GW05GF.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/LtGKdyq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1beOjAb.jpg

 

The seller took some photos with the section disassembled and I believe he didn`t put them back together the right way, so when the pen arrived, the feed and wire were rattling inside the barrel. I tried to put them back together and only succeeded with the help I received from some of you guys.

It writes now and it doesn`t leak on the paper, but the flow is not perfect and has a tendency to skip when I use it with inks other than Waterman Florida Blue. Even with this one still skips sometimes, but not as bad.

Even so, I`m very happy and proud to be the the owner of such a great writing instrument. And boy, what a feeling to actually use it!

It even has a box that also carries the Bard imprint, what more could I want?

Well, maybe a Chatelaine, a SF1, SF2, a Blackbird, an Eternal and so on. :)

All the best!

 

 

No wonder you're happy. What a marvelous pen. :thumbup:

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From the writing sample, it looks like the feed is going alternately wet and dry. That might be caused by a constriction in the feed, perhaps dried ink which could be flushed with water or diluted pen cleaner (but don't soak as that might affect the lovely black ebonite exterior of the body). As Cob suggested, pulling the feed back slightly might also open up the ink flow a bit more. When an overfeed pen is adjusted properly, I'm normally able to see some ink held between the overfeed and the top of the nib when the pen is held in the writing position.

 

The ink itself can make a big difference with finnicky vintage pens, as you've noted. My favourite "magic ink" for pens like this, particularly overfeeds, is Take-sumi from Pilot Iroshizuku.

 

It's a handsome pen, which has clearly been well cared for over its long life.

http://i.imgur.com/utQ9Ep9.jpg

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I pulled the feed a little bit to the back but with no effect. There is no dried ink inside, I`m sure of it as I inspected the feed, wire and the inside of the section before reassembling it; also, I do see the ink between the feed and the nib, as Goudy mentioned.

The over feed seems however to stay a little too far from the nib, leaving too much space between them. I used a small rubber to press it against the nib and it seemed to help, but right now I don`t want to try to bend the feed permanently, to touch the nib, as I`m afraid I`ll break it. Maybe I`ll find a feed like this somewhere and try it on my pen.

I will also try the Take-sumi when I get the chance.

To be honest, this doesn`t bother me that much. I just enjoy looking at this pen and holding it in my hand; I find it fascinating to be able to own and use an object that could very well be a part of a museum.

Parker 51 Vacumatic 0.7 Masuyama stub; TWSBI 540 M; TWSBI 580 1.1; Mabie, Todd and Bard 3200 stub; Waterman 14 Eyedropper F; 2 x Hero 616; several flexible dip nibs

owned for a time: Parker 45 flighter Pendleton stub, Parker 51 aerometric F, Parker 51 Special 0.7 Binder stub, Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel M, Lamy Joy Calligraphy 1.5 mm, Pelikan M200 M, Parker Vacumatic US Azure Blue M, Parker Vacumatic Canada Burgundy F, Waterman 12 Eyedropper, Mabie Todd SF2 flexible F

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