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Tiny But Stubborn Unidentified Pen Won't Part With Its Barrel!


SwedishScribbler

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I really am terrorising FPN today with a million questions - this is what happens when a fountain pen novice stumbles across a hoard of old pens in a second hand shop! So I acquired this tiny little pen and have been informed that it probably needs a sac change. Step one in any case would clearly be to remove the barrel from the section, but it just won't budge. I have tried soaking it in soapy water, heating up the join with a hairdryer, swearing at it and PULLING with all my might - nothing. Does anyone have any ideas? Should I sing to it? Recant a spell? Show it the light of the new moon? Is it some kind of special model where the barrel doesn't come off? Grateful for any advice!

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Could it be a threaded section that screws in, not a friction-fit push in one?

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There could be dried ink still in the pen, possibly ink loosed from a failed sac that then dried. Soaking in plain water for a day or overnight would be one thing to try, and try again if it doesn't work the first time.

 

Failing this, I would reapply heat cautiously, not to make the barrel too hot to handle, because you don't want to melt the section. Sometimes these things require patient reapplication of moderate heat not too much to handle. You could use a heat gun, but if you do do it carefully, not making the barrel too hot to handle. I have burned up a few pen barrels by applying too much heat with a heat gun. Sometimes the difference between the needed temperature of heat and the heat that will be too hot and burn the barrel (it would smoke and holes appear) is a very fine line and things go bad very fast.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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Thanks for quick replies! I will soak it overnight and give it a go again tomorrow. It actually gave off very little dried ink from the nib/feed when I soaked it for a few hours earlier, but maybe it's just that dry and hard that it needs an overnight bath. I'd be a bit scared to use a heat gun (quite apart from the fact I don't own one) but I'll look into it if I have no luck with the soak. It's not a screw-in section as far as I can tell.

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I'm not sure what material it is - do you mean that the section could turn from black to brown? It didn't overnight, and I've taken it out now - still hanging onto its barrel for dear life. I''ve found a heat gun for only 100 SEK (about 11 USD) so I'm sorely tempted to see if they have it in my local store. Worried I will overdo it though and ruin it!

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I stepped away from the heat gun. This baby has gone off to a pen restorer together with my Parker 51 who needs a connector replacement.

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Probably a smart move. However take it from someone who has been there, eventually you will be buying your own tools and fixing your own pens. You will then join the association of kitchen table pen repairers - we are a dedicated and slightly eccentric bunch in this day of smart phones and nano-technology. And it's such FUN!

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Oh I DO want to join you! You're probably right in your prophecy - I have already bookmarked a page where I can buy shellac, talc and sacs...I currently have very little faith in my own abilities though, but I think I will get that heat gun nonetheless. I picked up another pen at the same time as this one and the 51 - it's an anonymous black button-filler (no markings except "made in France" on the barrel and "Iridium tipped USA" on the nib) - the filling mechanism seems well and truly busted and I can't get the barrel off this one either so I think it will be perfect for practising heat application on.

 

Thank you for the encouragement!

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The scary part is when you start looking for a new kitchen table...

 

also, your imperfect heat gun would probably be ok -- just know that since it doesn't adjust temperature and force, you need to make the adjustment by not being too close to the heat source with the pen. Turn the gun on, with it facing away from your table. After a few seconds to let the heat stabilize, hold your empty hand a couple of feet out and then move it in slowly but steadily until you can feel the heat not just warming your hand, but over some seconds getting to the point of discomfort. A few inches further out is the closest distance the pen should be, so that when you hold it in your fingers and rotate the pen around, heating it evenly over some seconds, when it starts to hurt your fingers that's hot enough for the pen. Unless you have fever, your hand is already 37 deg C, so all you need is another 25-30 degrees C to soften the shellac inside. The pen is starting at room temp, prob 25 deg C, so you've built in a little safety cushion by using your hand as the sensing system. That said, my good heat gun, a better craft gun, was one of the best early tools I bought.

 

Tim

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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This is excellent advice - thank you! I will refer back to this when I'm ready to give it a go.

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I like your suggestions on how to fix the pen but I wouldnt sing to it unless your name is Anni-Frid, the silver might tarnish.

 

The barrel is likely to be a screw fit and I would persevere with the hairdryer. I have never had to use a heat gun but mine may be a little too fierce anyway.

 

Its not impossible that a previous owner has used strong glue instead of shellac.

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Before you dive in buying all kinds of sacs, shellac etc., invest in a good "how to" book. I have no affiliation, but I can thoroughly recommend Pen Repair by Jim Marshall and Laurence Oldfield. I think it's in it's 2nd or 3rd edition now, and it's worth every penny (or Kronor). I wish I'd had a copy years ago, it would have saved several pens from needless death. I still remember with a shudder, pulling out a Sheaffer nib with pliers and crushing the fins on the feed :yikes:.

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Ouch! I will definitely try and get my hands on a copy. So much good advice (and willingness to share it) on this site, I'm so very grateful!

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I like your suggestions on how to fix the pen but I wouldnt sing to it unless your name is Anni-Frid, the silver might tarnish.

 

The barrel is likely to be a screw fit and I would persevere with the hairdryer. I have never had to use a heat gun but mine may be a little too fierce anyway.

 

Its not impossible that a previous owner has used strong glue instead of shellac.

 

 

Haha, don't worry, the pen has gone off to the doctor's so is safely removed from my vocal talents (or lack thereof!)!

 

Since I have absolutely no idea who made the pen, how much restoration it needs, etc, the pen restorer is going to have a good look at it and then contact me with his suggestions. Since he's fixing my Parker 51 anyway I thought I might as well throw in this little one in the parcel, too.

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It is too late, but soaking a pen completely in water is not a good idea.

The problem is the lever and J-bar will rust if they get wet. And that is NOT good.

You can buy a new J-bar, but the lever is much harder to find a replacement.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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If I may chime in I would have to say that in pen repair patience is indeed the first virtue. It is not just heating that will help get the section out but a cycle of heating and cooling. Repeated as needed. When you get the urge to really torque with all your might step away from the pen until the urge goes away or until a day or so later.

I have only used a hair dryerin my work room and eventually i have been able to get most pens apart.

I also have a small box of parts that impatience created.

 

Al the best

 

Philip

Edited by Seville
www.scriptusinc.com



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It is too late, but soaking a pen completely in water is not a good idea.

The problem is the lever and J-bar will rust if they get wet. And that is NOT good.

You can buy a new J-bar, but the lever is much harder to find a replacement.

Ah but I didn't soak the whole thing. I put it nib-down in water so just over the section/feed join. I was temporarily tempted to dunk the entire pen, but then I thought to myself: "Would I be happy for it to be left out in the rain all night?" and the answer was of course "no" so I refrained from giving it a full bath!
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If I may chime in I would have to say that in pen repair patience is indeed the first virtue. It is not just heating that will help get the section out but a cycle of heating and cooling. Repeated as needed. When you get the urge to really torque with all your might step away from the pen until the urge goes away or until a day or so later.

I have only used a hair dryerin my work room and eventually i have been able to get most pens apart.

I also have a small box of parts that impatience created.

 

Al the best

 

Philip

This patience thing of which you speak - can it, too, be acquired in hobby stores..?

 

Joking aside, you're absolutely right, of course, and I will keep this in mind when I start trying to get my "practice pen" apart. Maybe persevere with the hairdryer a few more times before getting a heat gun.

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If you want to practice, get a bunch of CHEAP pens. Because you WILL break/destroy some as you are learning. I have several such pens in my AW SH*T box, except some of these were not CHEAP junkers.

As I found out, getting the section out of the barrel, is to me the most dangerous part of resacing a pen.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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