Best Ink For Inexpensive Copy Paper

[corgicoupe]

Many forms that need to be filled out are on copy paper, and inks tend to feather and bleed through, especially bad for 2 sided forms. Are there any inks that are very good for writing on bad paper?

[Buzz_130]

It's not just the ink as you should also consider your favorite nibs. If you enjoy writing with broad nibs, you will have a difficult time finding ink that will reliably write on poor paper. Smaller nibs will put less ink down on the paper and will reduce the chances of feathering and bleed through.

 

Looks for drier inks like the Pelikan 4001 series to work. If you are looking for some other options, then the nano-pigment inks from Sailor and Platinum are great starts but carry the burden of high maintenance inks. But I can vouch they work very well on copy paper. I'm also growing very fond of iron gall inks. These inks are generally regarded as very good inks on all types of paper but also require good pen hygiene. If you are comfortable with keeping your pens clean, using them frequently, and ready to flush more frequently, the nano-pigments or iron gall inks might be the ones you are looking for.

 

In any case, start with some samples to find a nib/ink combination that you like.

 

Buzz

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

+1 for the I-G and nano inks.

 

My daily writer is a Parker with an M nib, and when a narrow dry line is needed, I rotate my pen so the feed is uppermost and write with the 'wrong' side of the nib. Some nibs are better at this than others, and many Waverley shape [vintage] Sheaffers, especially the conical Triumph nibs, have that ability in Spades.

 

And a very light hand - just enough ink to tint the paper. So a dry pen with a dark ink does rather better than a wetter pen with a pale ink.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited June 30, 2015 by Sandy1

[corgicoupe]

I use, for this purpose, a Sheaffer Targa with an EF nib a Sheaffer 250 with a 3 nib, or an Esterbrook J with a 1555 GREGG nib, so the nib size should not be a problem.

 

I have some Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher, and it's only fair in this department, but it is waterproof. Where is the best place to get the iron-gall and the nano inks? Can you further explain this: "but carry the burden of high maintenance inks"? Is it a cleaning issue? How often?

Edited June 30, 2015 by corgicoupe

[torstar]

Quink Quink Quink Quink

Quink Quink Quink Quink

Lovely Quink Wonderful Quink

 

i just use less pressure and lesser flowing nibs on this kind of paper, you know the routine...

[EricaTX]

As a teacher, I write my notes on plain copy paper and then use a document projector/Lumens so the students can see/copy my notes. Noodle's works for me very well, and I primarily use the following pens: Pilot Metropolitan, Parker Sonnet Parker, Parker IM Metallic, and a variety of Levenger pens. All are medium.

 

The only time I really had a problem with bleed-through is when I used a Monteverde Jeweleria medium with De Atramentis Charles Dickens. In this case, I firmly believe it was the nib/pen because the ink comes out wetter than the other pens.

[mooshi]

IG inks in a non-broad nib pen has worked well for me.

[tinkerteacher]

Copy paper and Form paper are two different beasts in my experience. Copy paper being coated to prevented copier jams, and actually usually fairly fountain pen friendly because of the anti-jam coating. While buearucratic form paper is often the very cheapest tissue paper that the purchasing department can squeeze out of the stationaries supplier.

 

The very best(est) ink I have ever seen for the tissue paper that passes for Forms paper is Noodler's Feather-X.

 

Sailor's Kiwa-Guro pigment ink being a close second.

Edited June 30, 2015 by tinkerteacher

[ancalagon]

Where is the best place to get the iron-gall and the nano inks? Can you further explain this: "but carry the burden of high maintenance inks"? Is it a cleaning issue? How often?

I normally clean out my pens after every fill with tap water, and I've found that I don't need to do any extra maintenance for iron gall inks. I wouldn't recommend letting an iron gall ink dry out in a pen, but I have (accidentally) done that without major problems.

 

I haven't used nano inks much, but from what I've heard, letting them dry out in a pen would be a disaster. Basically, the particles are tiny enough that smacks from random water molecules are enough to keep them moving and floating around -- take away the water and you've got a really finely ground solid forming a plug wherever ink needs to be able to flow. As long as you're aware of it and careful to avoid dryout, you're probably fine.

 

R&K Salix (blue/black) and R&K Scabiosa (purple/black) are good IG inks.

[VivienR]

I have good experience with my personal favorite Diamine Imperial Purple, I use mostly fine and occasionally medium nibs mostly from Parker, I didn't find any drawbacks of this ink. For me works on every paper I throw under the nib. Since I like fine nibs, basically all of my inks are okay on cheap paper too.

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

I concur with Member tinkerteacher as to the difference between 'forms paper' and 'copy/print paper'. (Forms paper is typically printed by skilled operators using an offset printing press, so do not have the same jamming problem as copy/print machines.)

 

I find there is a bit of difference in handling I-G inks and nano inks, but it is mostly a question of degree. For both types the pen should be thoroughly cleansed before and after using the ink, especially if switching between inks of another family. As I-G ink has an aniline dye component, it is less likely to have a nasty reaction to aniline dye, but nano inks most certainly do not play well with other inks, so the matching pen should be very easy to be thoroughly cleansed and withstand clean-up chemistry stronger than water.

 

If I were to do a lot of forms work and choose a nano ink, I'd likely dedicate a pen: something like a Pilot Penmanship with an EF nib, whose simple threaded cap can be rinsed with water to increase the humidity within the cap when the pen is idle, hence avoid ink drying in the nib+feed. Or a Platinum Carbon Pen that has enhanced ink channel and an über narrow nib. And use a refilled cartridge, which is easier to clean-up than a converter. (Fussy enough?)

 

Of your pens, the Estie J when treated as an eyedropper would be another good pick, other than the damp cap technique. If the pen is to be idle I'd store the [dedicated] nib unit in a vial full of water to prevent any nano ink residue drying-out inside the works. Perhaps a 9450 'Steel Driver' - very narrow line and the heavy gauge steel makes the tines less likely to spread, giving very uniform ink flow.

 

As for sourcing the ink/s, there are a few stateside Vendors who offer samples, such as Goulet Pens, and Anderson Pens who also have Estie nibs on offer.

 

Please let us know how things progress.

 

Bye,

S1

 

__ __

9450 sample: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/282704-esterbrook-9450-extra-fine-nib-tines/?p=3242369

Edited July 4, 2015 by Sandy1

[penswordnoassemblyrequired]

For corgicoupe

 

Our Konrad of KWZInk makes wonderful IG as well as water resistant inks.

The IG can be purchased in America at Vanness Pens https://vanness1938.com/?q=KWZInk

or order direct from Konrad in Poland.

[pepsiplease69]

For me the nano and iron gall inks have been a mixed bag.

 

Sailor Kiwa Guro nano black is the best best best on cheap cheaper cheapest paper. I'm sorry to disagree but it beats out X-Feather in spades (at least from my singular perspective)

 

Kiwa Guro's sibling the nano blue black Sei Boku has not performed on the same level and it bleeds and feathers quite heavily under the same conditions.

 

Rohrer und Klingner Salix blue black is a worthy companion of sailor Kiwa Guro. NO feathering or spreading whatsoever! Mostly I keep these two inked up in my office pens.

 

Salix's purple brother the iron gall Scabiosa under performs in the same scenarios.

 

I qualify all of the above by saying that this has been according to my specific and very contorted observations. I continue to use the juiciest italics and stubs everywhere I go.

 

Common sense would suggest to go for drier finer nibs on more absorbant paper. But if ignoring common sense here is a crime, then lock me away forever and throw away the key.

 

Muahahahaha

[bizhe]

Another note on paper: recycled paper will be much worse.

[hbdk]

My choice for bad paper is Pelikan 4001 - they are all rather dry but especially the blue/black is excellent for that purpose. Lamy and Quink share the second place.

[Chiro75]

ESS Registrar's Ink works on EVERYTHING very well.

[musicman123]

I would recommend either some KWZI Iron Gall ink, J. Herbin IG Salix, or just Noodler's X-Feather. All three of these inks behave very well in terms of feathering but have some differences. KWZI IG inks are available in quite a huge range of colors, are relatively inexpensive it can be a bit hard to find at times. Herbin IG Salix is a dark blue-black colored ink, is a bit more pricy and can be found in most online pen shops. Noodler's X-Feather is not an Iron Gall, but is specially formulated to prevent feathering on even a tissue paper. However, there is a little issue with dry time as it takes a bit longer than other inks.

 

Personally, I prefer IG inks as I am left handed. However, IG inks do require a bit more stringent cleaning regimen and should not be left unattended in a pen for too long. A friend of mine left some KWZI IG Turquoise sitting in a pen for 3 months unused and some gold plated on the nib was removed. Noodler's X-Feather doesn't have to be cleaned as often so if you are one to forget about your pens, go with that.

Edited July 6, 2015 by musicman123

[tinta]

R&K Scabiosa can handle any inexpensive papers & envelopes I've tried it on. The same can be said for Akkerman #10 & Platinum blue/black, both iron gall inks.

[corgicoupe]

Many suggestions. Thank you. I think I'll pass on the ones that require frequent cleaning, as I tend to leave pens for a while. The Noodler's and the Pelikan 4001 are probably best for me.

 

I find that doctors' offices are particularly bad about running "fill out this... " forms on inexpensive copy paper, and I prefer not to use the provided pens that have been handled by many who may be ill, so I want to use my pen. The biggest problem is when your ink bleeds through and it's a double-sided form.

[tinta]

There's another ink I should have mentioned. The Pelikan 4001 blue/black (sadly not available in North America , but can be sourced from Cult Pens in the UK ,...no affiliation) is also excellent on inexpensive copy paper.

I'm getting a back up bottle of this versatile dry ink. Nice shading with wide italics.

Edited July 6, 2015 by tinta