Loose Cap On Montblanc 146 Meisterstück

[acharnmike]

I have a favorite pen that has been my "daily carry" since I got it - a Montblanc 146 Meisterstück. It's perfect for my hand, writes smoothly, pleases me in every way except:

 

The cap goes on with with lots of play in the threads (I wish it were tighter) and it's done at 1 1/4 turns. So the body slowly rotates when the pen is clipped in my pocket until it falls off.

 

So far no ruined shirts, and the pen has not been damaged by falling on the ground, but it's only a matter of time.

 

What can I do to tighten up the threads (without gumming up the grip)?

[______Zaphod_Beeblebrox]

You do not state whether it has done this from day one or it's something that has developed or time.

 

Did you buy it new from a Botique, and ho long ago. How long has this loose cap been going on? Have you tried giving it a little extra torque when closing it?

[acharnmike]

Thank you for your response, Zaphod.

 

The pen was made in the 1960s. I just bought it (used, obviously) in April this year from a reliable online source, and the problem has been there from the beginning.

 

I have not tried giving it extra torque once the turning has clearly stopped, beyond giving a firm "push". (I don't want to damage the threads.)

 

I have inspected the external threads carefully under magnification and have found no obstructions or damage. The internal threads are harder to see, but with a light and magnifyig glass I have not seen anything wrong there either. The cap seems to have been made that way.

 

My real question is whether something can be done to remedy the situation now.

[EBUCKTHORN]

PLEASE DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT OBTAINING MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE ADVICE THAN MINE. I recently received a NOS Sheaffer 440 (or 444) whose cap fit slightly looser than would be ideal. There are no threads involved and it's a metal cap snapping onto three small metal catches protruding from the plastic section.

 

I carefully used a cotton swab to apply successive light coats of clear nail polish to the interior of the metal cap approximately where it comes in contact with those catches. I let each coat fully dry (a few hours) before trying the cap on the pen and then applying the next coat. Approximately four coats did the job though I expect a re-coat may be necessary as the pen is used. The process had no effect on the way the cap posts (again, being sure the polish is completely dry before making contact.)

 

I'm not knowledgeable about MB construction but, if the threaded portions are made of a plastic, there might be the danger of a solvent in the nail polish attacking the plastic. PLEASE CONFIRM whether what I did with the Sheaffer would be safe to do with the MB before experimenting. If there is no solvent danger i would imagine that a very thin coat or two of the nail polish might add enough material to provide a tighter fit. Good luck BUT BE CAREFUL when considering this suggestion!

[CS388]

I have exactly the same problem on one of my 146's.

 

Still haven't found a fix. I started a thread on it and some good suggestions were made. They didn't work for my pen, but, who knows, they may work for yours?

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/273529-mb146-unscrews-itself-from-cap/?do=findComment&comment=3107098

 

Good luck.

[gordonhooker]

The clear lacquer sounds the best way to me I have used it for other thread issues, not related to fountain pen caps.

Edited June 28, 2015 by GordonOZ

[kirchh]

I don't recommend coating pen parts as a general matter, and more specifically, I don't recommend applying anything that hardens to threads, unless you are building up the area so as to have sufficient material for re-cutting the threads, which is an advanced repair.

 

The cap should remain closed due to the static friction between the cap and barrel threads and the static friction between the face of the section and the face of the inner cap's opening. Any of those surfaces might have some sort of oily (or inky) coating that is significantly reducing the coefficient of static friction between the mating surfaces. I would ensure that all of those surfaces are thoroughly free from any foreign substances; a careful cleaning with a solution of water with a mild soap or detergent might help. If you can get those areas squeaky clean -- literally -- it should increase the static friction, with the corresponding improvement in stay-closedness that you're seeking.

 

--Daniel

[gordonhooker]

As a fitter I would suggest means wear - anything that is benign that will build up the worn surface and as the pen is from the 60's it is 50 year old or there-abouts and is loose pretty much indicates it is wear.

[kirchh]

As a fitter I would suggest means wear - anything that is benign that will build up the worn surface and as the pen is from the 60's it is 50 year old or there-abouts and is loose pretty much indicates it is wear.

I'm not sure what you're saying here, but I repeat my recommendation not to apply any substance that will bond with the threads.

 

--Daniel

[fountainbel]

A vintage 146 dating from the early sixties could still be made from celluloid.

Is your pen made from celluloid?

If this is the case,there are two options :

1 -Expanding the barrel threads.

The celluloid threads of the barrel are probably shrink.

An indication for barrel threads shrinkage is when a high torque is needed to screw the section out (after heating up the threads )

In this case expanding the barrel threads is recommended

2- Shrinking the cap threads:

Both alternatives require applying controlled heat to the threaded parts and the use of appropriate tools for a controlled thermal expansion/shrinkage.

I've applied both options already several times with good results.

Francis

[acharnmike]

I have exactly the same problem on one of my 146's.

 

Still haven't found a fix. I started a thread on it and some good suggestions were made. They didn't work for my pen, but, who knows, they may work for yours?

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/273529-mb146-unscrews-itself-from-cap/?do=findComment&comment=3107098

 

Good luck.

Thank you for the referral to your previous thread. There's lots of insight and many suggestions, but like you I did not see a solution I can use.

 

I have started carrying it in my Aston 10-pen carrying case with the other pens I usually carry about, but it won't be that one that so conveniently fits in my shirt pocket. I like the Pilot Falcon SF that has taken its place, but the Montblanc 146 would be my first choice if it didn't have that problem.

[acharnmike]

PLEASE DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT OBTAINING MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE ADVICE THAN MINE. I recently received a NOS Sheaffer 440 (or 444) whose cap fit slightly looser than would be ideal. There are no threads involved and it's a metal cap snapping onto three small metal catches protruding from the plastic section.

 

I carefully used a cotton swab to apply successive light coats of clear nail polish to the interior of the metal cap approximately where it comes in contact with those catches. I let each coat fully dry (a few hours) before trying the cap on the pen and then applying the next coat. Approximately four coats did the job though I expect a re-coat may be necessary as the pen is used. The process had no effect on the way the cap posts (again, being sure the polish is completely dry before making contact.)

 

I'm not knowledgeable about MB construction but, if the threaded portions are made of a plastic, there might be the danger of a solvent in the nail polish attacking the plastic. PLEASE CONFIRM whether what I did with the Sheaffer would be safe to do with the MB before experimenting. If there is no solvent danger i would imagine that a very thin coat or two of the nail polish might add enough material to provide a tighter fit. Good luck BUT BE CAREFUL when considering this suggestion!

I appreciate your advice, EBuckthorn, but the pen is a very good one and I'm not experienced enough to start experimenting on it. As others have suggested here, it's more likely due to 50 years of wear on the threads than a design defect, and it would not be easily remedied. I'll carry it in my pen case and use it just in the office and at home when I'm not on the move, but I won't carry it in my pocket anymore. Thanks!

[hari317]

a 146 from the 60s? Pictures would help. The 146 was made in the 50th and then production resumed in the 70th. As per popular accounts, the production was halted in the 60th so it will be interesting to see your particular example.

[torstar]

When my 146 cap acts up, I just put the Limited Edition Poe cap on it for short term usage.

[RudyR]

As a fitter I would suggest means wear - anything that is benign that will build up the worn surface and as the pen is from the 60's it is 50 year old or there-abouts and is loose pretty much indicates it is wear.

 

 

I'm not sure what you're saying here, but I repeat my recommendation not to apply any substance that will bond with the threads.

 

--Daniel

 

What he said is that the threads of the cap and threads back of the section have probably worn down through decades of use. The solution would be to send this pen back to Montblanc to replace the cap (for probably 80 dollars) or live with it.

 

In other words, accept it as having the nature of Wabi Sabi and enjoy the fact that it was used so extensively that the cap threads were worn, yet it still is a fully functional writing instrument.

[acharnmike]

 

 

 

What he said is that the threads of the cap and threads back of the section have probably worn down through decades of use. The solution would be to send this pen back to Montblanc to replace the cap (for probably 80 dollars) or live with it.

 

In other words, accept it as having the nature of Wabi Sabi and enjoy the fact that it was used so extensively that the cap threads were worn, yet it still is a fully functional writing instrument.

You are right, Rudy. With a macroscope I was able to ascertain that the cap threads were not damaged at all. (That would be an easier fix, as Gordon OZ suggested.) But some of the threads on the body of the pen are worn almost completely down, hence the short closing stroke.

 

I do realize that a much more experienced repairer could deposit material on the pen and then recut the threads, but that's far and away more difficult than I could do.

 

I'm going to do as you said--live with it, use it, and enjoy it. It's safe in the carrying case, and I rarely leave home without it.

 

Thanks to all that chimed in with advice. What a great resource FPN is!