Id And Repair Lever-Action Pen

[Dissemiknit]

Hi. My name is Amanda, and I have inherited a pen that belonged to my grandfather. He died 16 years ago, and since then the pen has been sitting in my mother's house on display. She gave it to me, and I would like to restore it to working order.

 

The images I have are huge, so I'm only going to link to them.

https://dissemiknit.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/img_3342.jpg

https://dissemiknit.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/img_3346.jpg

https://dissemiknit.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/img_3344.jpg

https://dissemiknit.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/img_3343.jpg

 

The base of the "cap" stand reads "Wahl-Eversharp Gold Filled Made in Chicago, U.S.A."

The nib reads "Wahl-Eversharp 14k 2 Signature"

 

I would like advice on dating the pen, and also replacing the bladder. It is most definitely crushed into a billion little pieces.

 

My best guess on the date of the pen is as early as 1926. There is an advertisement on this page that shows this style of "cap" stand (for lack of a better word), and the two gold bands which cross the lever. It is my understanding that there was a Gold Seal on some Wahl-Eversharp pens, made evident by some kind of sticker or plate. There is no evidence of such a thing on this one.

 

I'm guessing it's called a Personal Point pen based on the advertisement found on Wahl-Eversharp's website, dated to 1929.

 

I also can guess I need either a 16 or 18 size bladder, according to this page's size reference to Personal Point pens.

 

I would like confirmation I'm on the right track to IDing and repairing this pen. I need advice on how to access the bladder nipple and how to clean it and replace it. Thank you in advance for your time and help!

[Dissemiknit]

I would really love a response from somebody. I've tried heating the joint between the section and the barrel with a blow dryer but I can't get it to budge. I've tried multiple times. Are there any tricks to getting this to come apart so I can replace the bladder?

[Ernst Bitterman]

As far as getting into it goes, you're on the right path; sometimes pens can take a LOT of cycles of warming before letting go. You might start a session by dipping the pen as deep as the joint in cool water-- cool because I think the section is hard rubber and will discolour in warm, and it's done at all to try and lubricate the joint and loosen any ink that might be acting as an adhesive. Set it aside any time frustration suggests using too much heat for your fingers' comfort or just a little more force. The biggest tool in our collective kit is patience.

 

Identification is a little tricky, since it looks like Wahl was part of the club that didn't name the desk models of their pens. With a #2 point, the 1928 catalogue calls that pen a DP720C (telegram code TAIRY, if you're ordering that way), and without the base it went for $5.50. It looks like the '28 book didn't envision a coloured rubber for the holder:

 

 

The letter bracket was apparently removable, and it looks like your grandfather decided to remove it. To my mind, it looks better without.

[gordonhooker]

I have no idea what it is or how to fix it, but I would love to have something like that in my collection.

[FredRydr]

It looks like the '28 book didn't envision a coloured rubber for the holder:

 

My first reaction was that the pen is black hard rubber and coral celluloid, while the tulip/trumpet/holder is red & black ripple hard rubber. It would seem a strange combination from Wahl-Eversharp. Still, it may have been what Amanda's grandfather chose to use.

 

Fred

[Dissemiknit]

I also noted the different materials of the pen and base. Funny enough, there's a lonely red and black ripple pen on ebay right now, auction ending tomorrow. I hope I can reunite a set. It would be fun to find a black base for my grandfather's pen if it remains a decoration piece. especially since I spent a few hours today attempting to loosen the section without success, and marring it in the process. I may have heated it too much because the color has changed some, and what I thought was sufficient padding under the channel lock pliers was not in fact enough.

 

I am going to attempt an ammonia soak in a few days. I need to visit the store for some first.

Edited June 25, 2015 by Dissemiknit

[Dissemiknit]

Also, thank you very much Ernst for your advertisement information. Very educational!

[robert1962]

Here is a situation where I would be careful with using ammonia. You pen is from an era where Wahl still used an (aluminum?) inner barrel - which may react unfavorably with the ammonia. I have a Wahl Coral desk pen similar to yours that has this metal liner. I also have some Wahl Coral pens which don't. You should be able to check your pen by opening the lever and seeing the layer of metal under the celluloid in the cut out. I have worked on several Wahl pens with this liner where corrosion makes removal of the section much more difficult than usual. The heat is not able to relax the joint in the same way as it does with a celluloid or rubber barrel. I have a few parts pens where the corrosion was severe enough to actually split the barrel at the section joint, so whatever this metal is, it is quite reactive.

 

I have done ok with a plain water soak to lubricate the joint, then a bit of heat - and everything else Ernst B. mentions.

 

Should you have the need - I have a clean Coral #2 desk barrel, and/or a black socket that are collecting dust.

 

Good luck, Bob