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Easterbrook Cap Jewel Repair


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15 replies to this topic

#1 spacecoastpenny

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 15:01

I recently had gone through all my Easterbrooks to decide on which to keep and ended up cleaning and repairing all of them. About a third of my pens had missing or chipped jewels. I was quick to learn that there not any replacement jewels out there. 

 

So I decided to see if I could reproduce some. I started by removing the jewel from a good cap to mold. 

 

DSC09844_zpsky72wqny.jpg

 

Once cap was selected I had to remove the inner cap to expose jewel. I used a tap (5/16-36) I bought to make a Parker Vac filler remover. I checked in a vise a screw on the cap and pulled it off.

 

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I then just took a punch and knocked out the jewel, I sawed the cap in half to get a better look.

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I started by glueing the jewel with Arlenes Tacky glue to a plastic ring box. I did these to hold it in place and to keep casting material from seeping in.

 

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I had just the top so I made a mold just for top peace only.

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I mixed up silicon mold material I bought from Hobby Lobby per instructions.

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Poured the material over my jewel from the corner so it would flow under the jewel.

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It took about 3 hours to dry, then I removed the parts

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I put the mold back in the plastic box to hold it tight and I mixed a casting resin and added color and starting making parts.

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I let parts dry overnight. I had a problem getting them out, I had to rip mold to get out. 

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So I used wax on the next batch for mold release

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Parts out of mold, right one is new part.

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Parts straight out of mold

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Sorry for bad photo. This is the complete part. I am going to continue and play with these process. The flat top only I think I can make easily and would be the best bet, just chip away your old jewel glue the new one in place.

 

IMG_1133_zpsohh2wyn2.jpg

 

When I get back to the project I will update any info. I think there is some potential here. Just making a few parts is expensive. I plan to make a few once I get things right.

 

 


Edited by spacecoastpenny, 22 May 2015 - 15:18.

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#2 Ron Z

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 15:30

FYI - Alumalite products have a shrinkage rate of about 1%  i.e if the original item that is 0.200" in diameter, the cast part will be about 0.002" smaller.  That often does not make any difference, but if it's supposed to be a snug slip fit you may find that it is a little on the loose side, so you'll need shellac to build it up and secure it.

 

The Quick Set as you found out, isn't ideal for an item like this.  There are other mold making compounds that will still give you a good finish, but are supposed to be more elastic so will stretch to release the part where the QS does not.  I don't remember at the moment what they are...


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#3 spacecoastpenny

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 15:38

Thanks of the heads up. I would like to find a better product, I used what was locally available. I was thinking the next go around I would put a thin coat of nail polish on the part to make a it bit bigger. I am trying to stay away from polishing.

 

Any info on better materials would appreciated.


Edited by spacecoastpenny, 22 May 2015 - 16:26.

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#4 Ron Z

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 21:22

I think that shellac would be better than nail polish.  Not that this material will be effected by the solvents in nail polish, but it's a bit tougher, more pliable even when dried, and softens with heat.


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#5 spacecoastpenny

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Posted 24 May 2015 - 14:29

Thanks Ron! 

 

I looked at tother products to use. However the price is to point I will continue to use what I have. I might invest in another product later.


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#6 Tom Heath

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 11:10

Thank you for sharing your work

 

As with a lot of invention , trial and error  should lead to a happy ending on this project.

 

Please keep us informed as to your progress


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#7 Chouffleur

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 11:24

Is there any 3D printing technology that produces something durable enough to do this sort of thing? Would a visit to a hackerspace be worthwhile if there's one conveniently located?


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#8 spacecoastpenny

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 14:16

Chouffleur,

 

I have a friend that has 3D printer. I have not asked yet if he can cut a piece that small. 

 

thanks for the suggestion. 


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#9 trdsf

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 01:20

A 3D printer should make a usable piece, but I haven't seen one yet that doesn't have visible lines between each layer of plastic it puts down.  If you make it very slightly oversized and then polish it down, it should work, but it might still have visible lines between each layer of plastic.  And I'm not sure how durable the plastic is.

 

Alternately, if you can get some fill material, you might turn the lines from a vice into a virtue -- custom pinstriped jewels might be interesting!


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#10 Chouffleur

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 08:53

Chouffleur,

 

I have a friend that has 3D printer. I have not asked yet if he can cut a piece that small. 

 

thanks for the suggestion. 

This thread might interest you as well: http://www.fountainp...ired/?p=3377743


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#11 amberleadavis

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Posted 08 April 2017 - 23:21

Was there ever any followup to this project because I'm really impressed.


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#12 spacecoastpenny

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 15:46

amberleadavis, I have not followed up other than I have made about a dozen jewels..


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#13 amberleadavis

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 17:52

That's wonderful to hear!


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#14 FarmBoy

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 04:42

G has repro jewels that are quite nice on his etsy store.


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#15 gweimer1

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 13:40

G has repro jewels that are quite nice on his etsy store.

 

And I had help from the West Coast contingent.  I don't list them on my Etsy page yet, but I do have them up on Ebay.  The cap jewels I had made are made from acetal and are far more forgiving than the originals.  I still have about 40 or so left of my first run of 500.



#16 amberleadavis

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 16:33

I saw them after I posted, you did a great job!


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