Hero 100 vs. Parker 51

[alexander_k]

I had a Hero 100 and rather liked it. It was passed on to my daughter and she used it with pleasure for three years but one day she brought it back to be with a huge crack in the section and the question (bless her) whether it could be repaired. I gave her a 51 instead. Then I took some time doing a post mortem of the 100. Clearly the quality of construction of the 51 is far higher.

[Seele]

I had a Hero 100 and rather liked it. It was passed on to my daughter and she used it with pleasure for three years but one day she brought it back to be with a huge crack in the section and the question (bless her) whether it could be repaired. I gave her a 51 instead. Then I took some time doing a post mortem of the 100. Clearly the quality of construction of the 51 is far higher.

 

Cracked section is a known issue among some later batches of 100s, theories abound but what's most likely is that the screw threads are not cylindrical enough. While all 100s are covered by lifetime guarantee, sending it to Hero's service department in Shanghai would be far too costly; it might be an idea to obtain some certified genuine section hoods as service parts from Taobao, along with the special tool for disassembly/assembly, which is quite necessary.

 

Both the 100 and 51 were not designed to be cheap pens, as you must have discovered, the 100 employs a totally different method of assembly, and the parts are very different from the 51 that it cannot even be called a derivative. But of course Hero was handicapped for not having access to materials of grades comparable to that used in the 51. Still, provided that the 100 is genuine, the all-steel 100 is a nice bit of kit to use.

 

Disclosure: I use both the 51 and 100 for more than a few years; started using the 51 in the mid-70s.

Edited January 16, 2015 by Seele

[alexander_k]

 

Both the 100 and 51 were not designed to be cheap pens, as you must have discovered, the 100 employs a totally different method of assembly, and the parts are very different from the 51 that it cannot even be called a derivative. But of course Hero was handicapped for not having access to materials of grades comparable to that used in the 51. Still, provided that the 100 is genuine, the all-steel 100 is a nice bit of kit to use.

 

Quite true! Still, the 51 plastic seems to be far better than anything I've seen so far.

[Seele]

 

Quite true! Still, the 51 plastic seems to be far better than anything I've seen so far.

The 51 used poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA), also known under its trade names of Perspex, Lucite, Plexiglas, etc. and blended with the right amount of fillers to give colour and opacity. PMMA is of course well known for toughness, which is really desirable for the 51 as it can withstand sustained and shock loads very well. However I believe Hero did not have access to PMMA or similar high-cost polymers, but had to do with significantly less expensive polystyrene (PS) and derivatives such as high-impact polystyrene (HIPS) by incorporating fillers. This takes away some of the brittleness inherent in PS but it still cannot reach the degree of toughness exhibited by PMMA. If you look at the barrels only, comparing one from a 51, one from a 100, and one from a 616, you will understand the difference immediately.

 

Needless to say, the material technology and machining done at Parker's facilities were of a very high degree. For instance the 51's collector was turned from a solid rod and the fins remain parallel after the slots between them were cut, when Hero tried to do the same thing the fins always went crooked after every cut, due to the fact that Parker used rods with no internal stresses, and Hero had to jump through hoops to achieve the same. Even if Parker's machining was a little bit off, resulting in the mating screw threads a bit out of round, the toughness of PMMA would still take it in its stride, but with PS derivatives breakage could occur, as in cracks developing along the section hood.

 

It has been said that the earlier 100 examples were constructed to an appreciably higher standard, thus more reliable and rewarding to use. I do not have a panoramic collection of 100s with examples made through the ages so I cannot vouch for that. If Hero did not switch to less-forgiving - and less costly - plastics, the only reason for the phenomenon of cracked section hood could be the mating screw threads getting progressively more out of round, which might due to wear and tear of the tooling; this putsthe section hood under increasingly greater loads until it cannot take it anymore. Without supporting evidence, it is of course speculation on my part.

[alexander_k]

Many thanks for the wealth of information, Seele.

[Jorge]

That's true, but personally I like how the 100 resembles the p61 double jewels more, and since Ive discovered taobao, I've found a dealer selling them for 23$, hard to find a good p51 for that price. Besides, it satisfies my desire for a cheap gold nib that I can tinker with. I currently have 11. 1 each of 7 colors and 3 on the way. And I bet there aren't any mods for a p51 demonstrator piston fill!

Thank you, Tim, for saying that the Hero 100 resembles the P61 and not that much the P51!

That has always been my personal opinion (because of size, double tassies, weight, plastic quality, interchangeable caps...), but, for some strange reason, most people keep on comparing Hero 100 vs. P51 (when it should rather be the non-fake Hero 616 vs. P51).

I own all four of them and each one has its peculiarities, however.

[rwilsonedn]

Seele:

Thanks for the fascinating information! You really filled in the picture of just what it takes for one company to try to duplicate another's product concept.

ron

[______Zaphod_Beeblebrox]

So I either use my own pens that I make (hoping for a sale), or I just use the hooded nibbed pens.

Ever thought of making one? Best way to make a sail is to use what you make.

[dcwaites]

I have three Hero 100s and several P51 (vacumatic, aeromatic and Special)

The H100 is a little smaller (narrower and shorter) than a P51, and a little lighter. The plastic is not as good quality, but still better than the cheaper Heros like the 616 and 329.

Both pens have gold nibs, the H100 at 10k and the P51 at 14k.

The P51 is available with a range of sizes, from XXF (I have one) through F and M to B.

The H100 only has F.

 

I much prefer the feel of a H100 to the 616.

[WateryFlow]

Both pens have gold nibs, the H100 at 10k and the P51 at 14k.

The H100 is 14k

 

It's a shame the Hero isn't available in wider sized nibs, I would have snapped it up in a heartbeat

Edited January 22, 2015 by WateryFlow

[TimTheZaj]

You can regrind it yourself, have it reground or re-tipped?

[dcwaites]

The nibs are not wide enough to grind to a broader tip without removing all the tipping.

[TimTheZaj]

Yes, although they make a good fine stub at around ~ 0.6-0.7 mm with removing about a quarter of the tipping. It really isn't very difficult as I've found that it is an easy pen to regrind, as the tipping is very straight and somewhat softer than on western pens. The softness is equivalent to that of 60s sheaffer imperials, which I have also reground.

[Ebonny]

Hello All... I'm really new here and I have been looking for a Hero 100 or 616 on eBay, however there is quite a range of prices listed. Is that the best place to find one and how does one determine who is a reputable vendor selling the authentic Hero's? How do you tell if it is authentic?

Thank you for your time and assistance.

[Seele]

Hello All... I'm really new here and I have been looking for a Hero 100 or 616 on eBay, however there is quite a range of prices listed. Is that the best place to find one and how does one determine who is a reputable vendor selling the authentic Hero's? How do you tell if it is authentic?

Thank you for your time and assistance.

This thread should be of some help.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/308367-help-finding-a-legit-retailer-for-the-hero-100-from-the-uk/

 

Also interesting is that all Hero 100s carry a lifetime warranty, the catch is that only Hero's own service centre at their HQ in Shanghai offers support; if you are physically in China then it would not be a great problem, but for us overseas customers it's much trickier. As there are far too many counterfeits around, often sold by a variety of vendors, the vendor's reputation and track record would be the best evidence to go by.

[bobje]

Ebonny,

on eBay, "jewelrymathematics" is a reliable vendor used by many FPN members, and for a while he was active here on this forum. You can probably find a 616 from him now, though I don't think he sells the Hero 100.

Bob

[Trom]

Ebonny,

on eBay, "jewelrymathematics" is a reliable vendor used by many FPN members, and for a while he was active here on this forum. You can probably find a 616 from him now, though I don't think he sells the Hero 100.

Bob

 

He does, but his price is not so nice.

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=jewelrymathematics&item=231629086320&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xhero+100.TRS0&_nkw=hero+100&_sacat=0

 

the Hero 616 is much cheaper:

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=jewelrymathematics&hash=item4d2f2ec986%3Ag%3AOtgAAMXQrNtR2stW&item=331504077190&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xhero+616.TRS0&_nkw=hero+616&_sacat=0

Edited May 21, 2016 by Trom

[Ebonny]

Thank you everyone for the info.

I think I'll do a little more research and possibly make an offer to jewelrymathematics and see if he accepts. I'm probably better off looking for a Parker 51 anyway. I appreciate all the help.

[Zookie]

I have a 616-2 (only way I could get yellow), regular size, that I really enjoy using, and have yet to have a problem with. It's a nice pen.

[Ebonny]

I have a 616-2 (only way I could get yellow), regular size, that I really enjoy using, and have yet to have a problem with. It's a nice pen.

I actually just ordered the 612 Jumbo as the regular size is a little too thin for me. Glad you like yours; hope mine is good when it arrives.