Jump to content

Micro-Mesh Smoother Than Mylar?


FoszFay

Recommended Posts

I have 12,000 grit micro-mesh, and 1.0 and 0.3 micron mylar paper. I find that the micro-mesh gives me a smoother nib...I thought it was meant to be the opposite?

 

What are your experiences?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • dneal

    4

  • FoszFay

    3

  • ThyPenMaker

    3

  • bardiir

    2

If your micro-mesh is the kind that is on a padded backing, then it does more corner rounding instead of flat-spotting.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have 12,000 grit micro-mesh, and 1.0 and 0.3 micron mylar paper. I find that the micro-mesh gives me a smoother nib...I thought it was meant to be the opposite?

 

What are your experiences?

 

 

Same as yours.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

beanbag is probably right with you using a soft padded micromesh or a micromesh version that is a little giving when you press the nib on it. It will give rounder edges compared to a mylar on a hard surface.

 

Try putting the mylar on a sponge or cloth that is soft so it is softly padded too. Then try again and the mylar should give you a smoother surface.

My Pens/Nibs (inked/active): Lamy Studio/Vista/Joy (XXF slight-flex custom | 14k EF | EF | F | 14k M | M | B | 14k 1.1 custom | 1.1 | 1.5 | 1.9), TWSBI Diamond 580 (F | Pendleton BadBoy | Zebra G | F.P.R. semi-flex), Pilot Falcon EF, Penkala Vintage 14k semi-flex, Pilot Parallel (2.4 | 3.8 | 6.0)

http://www.fp-ink.info/img/button.pngI'm still looking for help/data/supporters/sponsors for my Ink Database - It already contains over 900 Inks but is still low on data about the inks except on the Inks I got myself or where I found nice data sheets. So Im looking for these: InkSamples mailed to me, Permissions to use InkReviews - preferable by people who have a lot of InkReviews online, InkReviews mailed to me so I can scan them, Sponsors that will help me to finance InkSamples, People willing to trade InkSamples (list of available Inks from me is available via PM request - please include available Inks)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

beanbag is probably right with you using a soft padded micromesh or a micromesh version that is a little giving when you press the nib on it. It will give rounder edges compared to a mylar on a hard surface.

 

Try putting the mylar on a sponge or cloth that is soft so it is softly padded too. Then try again and the mylar should give you a smoother surface.

I'm using the micromesh from GouletPens. It doesn't have any foam padding under it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The micromesh I got from GouletPens is on some sort of soft fibre-cloth and is easily pushed down 0.1-0.2mm when you put a little bit of pressure on the nib, this makes hell of a difference. I got a sandpaper like paper backed micromesh too and it is basically not usable for nib smoothing, although it has the same grain. The soft padded versions I got pretty recently are perfect, with a bit of pressure you can almost sand all around the tip.

My Pens/Nibs (inked/active): Lamy Studio/Vista/Joy (XXF slight-flex custom | 14k EF | EF | F | 14k M | M | B | 14k 1.1 custom | 1.1 | 1.5 | 1.9), TWSBI Diamond 580 (F | Pendleton BadBoy | Zebra G | F.P.R. semi-flex), Pilot Falcon EF, Penkala Vintage 14k semi-flex, Pilot Parallel (2.4 | 3.8 | 6.0)

http://www.fp-ink.info/img/button.pngI'm still looking for help/data/supporters/sponsors for my Ink Database - It already contains over 900 Inks but is still low on data about the inks except on the Inks I got myself or where I found nice data sheets. So Im looking for these: InkSamples mailed to me, Permissions to use InkReviews - preferable by people who have a lot of InkReviews online, InkReviews mailed to me so I can scan them, Sponsors that will help me to finance InkSamples, People willing to trade InkSamples (list of available Inks from me is available via PM request - please include available Inks)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

with a bit of pressure you can almost sand all around the tip.

 

Be careful. With the softer backing it's also easy to round the inside corners of the slit and end up with baby bottom as well.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased both micromesh and mylar from Goulet Pens some time ago, but have only used the micromesh (12,000 grit) thus far.

 

My understanding is that 12,000 grit micromesh is coarser than the mylar paper, so the latter will give a smoother finish. HOWEVER, if you have a nib is a little scratchy and needs smoothing (i.e. you've already checked for alignment etc), the micromesh, being coarser, will 'smooth out' the roughness faster.

 

The finer grit of the mylar paper is better for taking a nib that's already relatively smooth, and smoothing it further. It's usually a 'second step' (and/or a third step) after you're done with micromesh, if you'd like to get an even smoother glide across the page.

 

That might explain why the micromesh seems to do a better job - but if so, it's not a question of micromesh giving you a 'smoother finish', it's a matter of micromesh getting you there *faster*.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased both micromesh and mylar from Goulet Pens some time ago, but have only used the micromesh (12,000 grit) thus far.

 

My understanding is that 12,000 grit micromesh is coarser than the mylar paper, so the latter will give a smoother finish. HOWEVER, if you have a nib is a little scratchy and needs smoothing (i.e. you've already checked for alignment etc), the micromesh, being coarser, will 'smooth out' the roughness faster.

 

The finer grit of the mylar paper is better for taking a nib that's already relatively smooth, and smoothing it further. It's usually a 'second step' (and/or a third step) after you're done with micromesh, if you'd like to get an even smoother glide across the page.

 

That might explain why the micromesh seems to do a better job - but if so, it's not a question of micromesh giving you a 'smoother finish', it's a matter of micromesh getting you there *faster*.

I'm able to get a buttery-smooth nib with close to zero resistance off of my micro-mesh. When I go to the .3 micron mylar, it makes it 'rougher', even after only a few seconds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm able to get a buttery-smooth nib with close to zero resistance off of my micro-mesh. When I go to the .3 micron mylar, it makes it 'rougher', even after only a few seconds.

 

Yep.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It depends on what grade mylar you are using. The pink is a bit coarser than 12000 micromesh, the white is finer.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The .3 micron mylar (or at least the stuff Richard Binder sold) is white.

 

I agree with Fozy. You can get a smoother nib with the 12000 micro mesh. Use .3 micron mylar after that and it's not as smooth. The difference is minute though, and I've come to prefer the bit of feedback it adds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I would think RonZ is onto something here.

I was doing a little research to find out how my 3 micron diamond hone compared to micromesh. From comparing grit charts it looks as though 12000 micromesh is 2 microns. 0.3 micron should be 6 times more fine that micro mesh 12000. Apparently the method of use can vary these effective grits quite a bit.

"Let the refining and improving of your own life keep you so busy that you have little time to criticize others." - H. Jackson Brown, Jr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had the exact same experience, except i thought i was doing something wrong. My assumption was that the lapping film would have made it even smoother. I get a lot smoother nibs with micromesh. The grey kind from Goulet?

http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww296/messiah_FPN/Badges/SnailBadge.png
https://www.etsy.com/shop/FountainPenStation?ref=hdr_shop_menu

http://NIBBLYNIB.WORDPRESS.COM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe someone in the grit industry would be willing to do a microscope test for us. While they are at it test a brown paper bag. In the woodturning world it's often used as a light sandpaper, no pun intended. I'm surprised I haven't seen it used for fountain pens. Anyone out there writing on brown paper bags with their fountain pens?

"Let the refining and improving of your own life keep you so busy that you have little time to criticize others." - H. Jackson Brown, Jr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe someone in the grit industry would be willing to do a microscope test for us. While they are at it test a brown paper bag. In the woodturning world it's often used as a light sandpaper, no pun intended. I'm surprised I haven't seen it used for fountain pens. Anyone out there writing on brown paper bags with their fountain pens?

 

Brown paper bags are discussed frequently. There is a sticky at the top of this forum with pictures of various materials. Here's a link:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/294703-close-up-photos-of-abrasives-used-on-nibs/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Brown paper bags are discussed frequently. There is a sticky at the top of this forum with pictures of various materials. Here's a link:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/294703-close-up-photos-of-abrasives-used-on-nibs/

Thanks for the link, I'm subscribed to that one too.

"Let the refining and improving of your own life keep you so busy that you have little time to criticize others." - H. Jackson Brown, Jr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FoszFay, I seem to recollect that Richard Binder taught us to use our mylar sheet and <then> finish off with those buffing pads that look almost as though they belong in some beauty salon (honest!) for your nails -- two grades on one side and the finishing grade in grey on the other. Can you get those thingies in Oz? I am sure that the nice couple who took over the Binder sales (Indy-Pen-Dance) have got them: look under "Fountain pen restoration supplies" and go to page four or five...they are cheap and humble little things; but worth their weight in...whatever!

 

Of course you do your finishing with ink in the pen, don't you? You need the lubricant between nib and mylar film or the buffing stick.

Edited by Christopher Godfrey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FoszFay, I have just seen, this morning, a parallel thread called Nib Polishing (or similar) -- you may already have read it? In it, dcwaites, also from NSW, posts a picture of the buffing sticks, so I assume they <are> available in your neck of the woods...

 

Go into the website of one of our great gurus, Richard Binder, to read his notes, if you have not already done so -- RichardsPens, I think.

Edited by Christopher Godfrey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FoszFay, I have just seen, this morning, a parallel thread called Nib Polishing (or similar) -- you may already have read it? In it, dcwaites, also from NSW, posts a picture of the buffing sticks, so I assume they <are> available in your neck of the woods...

 

Go into the website of one of our great gurus, Richard Binder, to read his notes, if you have not already done so -- RichardsPens, I think.

 

The buffing sticks are available at larger chemists and the like. $10~$12.

Use the black and white sections on your nails and the grey section on your nibs.

fpn_1412827311__pg_d_104def64.gif




“Them as can do has to do for them as can’t.


And someone has to speak up for them as has no voices.”


Granny Aching

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33494
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26627
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...