Pen Polishing

[kirchh]

I have said it before and I'll say it again.

 

Richard Binder along with other pen retailers and restorers sell Simichrome.

 

I will agree that Simi can be a PIA to a subsequent repair person If not applied correctly and removed thoroughly but I don't feel that generally, when it's used with some care, it's likely to damage a pen.

 

I don't think Richard or Pendemonium for example, want to see a pen damaged any more than the rest of us do. If I think, there was a high likelihood that the average user would damage a pen with it, IF they would even sell the product at all, they'd provide substantial disclaimers to it's use that they currently don't.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

 

Richard Binder doesn't sell Simichrome -- at least, not from his web site.

 

A recent article by Richard cautions against the use of Simichrome due to excessive abrasiveness.

 

Experienced repairpersons can disagree on products and techniques. Obviously, Richard doesn't "want to see a pen damaged," but he might not have realized that there are better products for every function, and components in Simichrome that might negatively affect pens. As you yourself have admitted regarding this subject, "I am not saying Richard is omnipotent [sic]." And Pendemonium has a shop where they supply products that people are no doubt requesting, and given the accolades heaped on Simichrome in this forum, there are plenty of people who want to purchase it.

 

As I have explained to you in the past, I strongly discourage the use of Simichrome, even though I know that Richard Binder uses and sold it. It is not formulated to be used on, and to be safe with, the non-metal materials typically found in vintage pens. So, we cannot rely on the maker's intentions and testing in that regard. Next, Simichrome is excessively aggressive, in my experience, and my experience includes a great deal of work with analyzing and restoring metal trim parts on pens; Richard Binder has recently stated, "Simichrome Metal Polish, although it is well known and widely available at antique shops, motorcycle shops, and many other locations, is not recommended for ordinary maintenance because it is abrasive." Finally, Simichrome can easily find its way into every nook, cranny, crevice, crack, thread, seam, hole, slot, and slit on a vintage pen, and it is difficult to completely remove all traces of it. I've handled probably thousands of pens that have been "restored" that have Simichrome paste residue in/on them. It can and will clog nibs and feed channels, and the residue is essentially powdered abrasive. I guarantee that if you go to your collection and examine pens that have been "restored" by professionals, you will find examples with pinkish/whitish residue up under the clip and around the interior walls of the lever box. Take a look.

 

Richard and I are close friends, and there may be nothing we disagree about more than the use of Simichrome. I hate to speak for others, but I believe he feels that it is not harmful, and with care it can be completely removed after application. In his hands, the latter is almost certainly true, and that may eliminate or sufficiently mitigate the risks of the former. I see no reason to use it and to deal with the risks and mess when there are other products that are less risky and formulated more specifically, and that are less messy.

 

Here's an excerpt from a post of mine on this subject:

 

One issue is the aesthetic result obtained through the use of Simichrome or other products that produce a high polish; some prefer it, some prefer a more muted appearance that may be truer to the original finish. Richard does not use Simichrome merely because shinier pens sell better; I think he prefers the results, and he gives his clients' pens the same attention that he gives items destined for his own collection. Whether or not one agrees with that preference is one thing, but Richard does not as a matter of course tart up pens for sale.

 

A separate issue under discussion is the dangers of employing Simichrome -- unintentional removal of gold or other platings/coatings, possible chemical attack -- and as a related matter, the after-effects, such as the residue finding its way into every crack and crevice. Obviously, experiences and assessments differ. In my opinion, Simichrome is not inherently bad (putting aside the question of possible chemical attack), but it is exceedingly easy to use it badly. Therefore, I do not use it, as it serves no function not better served by other products and/or techniques, and I discourage its use because it is so easily used in a way that damages pens and that leaves excessive residue.

 

A typical pen that comes into my shop that has been Simichromed has whitish powder behind the clip, embedded in the clip ball seams, in the barrel threads, on the inside edges of the lever box, on the sides and underside of the lever, in the cap's vent holes, inside the open end of the cap, inside the cap around the vent holes, inside the barrel around the lever cutout, on the pressure bar, around and under the cap band(s), between blind cap and body, in the nib slit and pierce, and on the feed. Can it all be removed? Of course. Is the effort involved worth it for the results obtained? Not in my experience.

 

--Daniel

Edited April 4, 2015 by kirchh

[Manalto]

Daniel,

Thanks for the explanation. The rule of thumb I learned long ago was to use the least aggressive method possible when cleaning delicate antique or vintage items. It's good to know about better, gentler options.

 

For those of us who plowed ahead unknowingly and used Simichrome on our pens (I only did it on two, but they're important ones), what method do you recommend for removing the residue?

 

James

Edited April 5, 2015 by Manalto

[PingleiHe]

I've used simichrome before.

But if you have a scratchy nib,you have to polish the tipping to change the shape. Simichrome can only make the surface shinny.

[Manalto]

See original question:

Question; can Simichrome polish be used on "plastic" type pens or just on metal pens?

 

So, if you did use Simichrome, what is the best method to remove the residue? Anyone?

[gweimer1]

Just a comment on all this after picking up part of an estate collection at auction last week. You sometimes get a feel for the former collector when you get a lot of pens from the same source. This collection of 35 is the first where I can see all the white residue that everyone has mentioned. It's present on a lot of the pieces I have. A couple that I have opened up show me that this might have been someone who liked to polish their pens more than repairing them. I have a few pretty pens, with residue, and junk inside. There are pens in this box that couldn't be used, but they can be looked at.

 

My first plan for cleaning up the residue is careful use of my fingernails. And, in deference to the comments about keeping a pen closer to its original look, I like trying for a nice shiny pen with solid colors, but not necessarily for a nice pattern that may show itself beautifully as it was. I'm also finding that I don't always want to erase all of the history off of a pen. It's very subjective (and yes, can be related to my growing abilities), but there are some signs of an aging pen that can attest to it's extensive use over time and the fact that someone once really loved the pen I'm working on. I had a Wearever Gold Bullet that was a train wreck, but one that truly showed love of use and not neglect.

[kirchh]

For those of us who plowed ahead unknowingly and used Simichrome on our pens (I only did it on two, but they're important ones), what method do you recommend for removing the residue?

Depends on the pen. Some components can go through an ultrasonic cleaner. Hard rubber exterior parts, possibly excepting sections, shouldn't get wet, so careful brushing and picking with softer implements is recommended. Celluloid pens and most other plastic pens (excepting casein items) can be brushed under running water. If you want to be thorough you might need to pull the section to get to the works in a lever-filler, as residue makes its way onto the pressure bar via the lever slot. Likewise, the nib/feed/section might need disassembly to get residue out of the feed channels.

 

I have some microbrushes that come in handy for this sort of thing. I'll try to find a link for them. Great for cap vent holes, under the clip, and the lever box.

 

--Daniel

[BamaPen]

snip...

 

I have some microbrushes that come in handy for this sort of thing. I'll try to find a link for them. Great for cap vent holes, under the clip, and the lever box.

 

--Daniel

Daniel,

The source for those microbrushes would be much appreciated. They sound like just the ticket for some difficult little spots.

John

[Flounder]

I've used blutack to clean out awkward crevices and cap breather holes. A more upmarket alternative would probably be watchmaker's rodico putty.

[kirchh]

Daniel,

The source for those microbrushes would be much appreciated. They sound like just the ticket for some difficult little spots.

John

 

Here you go.

 

--Daniel

[Glenn Atkins]

And another...

 

http://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BER38.html

 

Glenn

[ElaineB]

In a pinch, you can also use the tiny brushes sold in drugstores, used to clean out the spaces between teeth and gums. The thin versions are extremely small and flexible, with comfortable handles to grip. I used them quite a bit when cleaning old pens.

[lcoldfield]

Micro-gloss liquid abrasive is available in the UK. It comes in two grades.

The ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to remove polish residues as no other method can get into the small crevices where the polish hides. I have no problem with using water based products on hard rubber provided they are not heavily oxidised components, but then I would not polish those anyway.

Water only affects hard rubber if it has an oxidisation layer.

Laurence

[lcoldfield]

Cleaning is defined simply as the removal of dirt, and polishing is the removal of surface material. -------If the pen is just greasy and dirty without anyobvious scratches or unwelcome surface features, soap and water are probably all that is needed.------------Minor scratches may need to be treated with polish, but some collectors prefer a pen to have a patina that characterises its period of useful service.

Pens are sometimes polished to a glassy (ghastly?) shine that they would never have had when new. Very fine abrasives are required to achieve such a shine, and these do not touch wear scratches, so all they do is polish between the scratches and thereby create a 'tarted up' appearance.

Paradoxically, an aggressive polish gives the pen a 'VGC' appearance because the wear scratches are reduced and other very fine scratches are introduced to create the impression of a good life. -------.

Many pen repairers use buffing wheels loaded with different grades of abrasive. However if incorrectly used wheels can be a quick and easy way to finish a pen - in both senses of the word. ----'.

Laurence

[lcoldfield]

The post above is a quote from what I wrote in Pen Repair 3rd edition page 246.

Laurence

[tryphon]

The post above is a quote from what I wrote in Pen Repair 3rd edition page 246.

Laurence

..and an excellent quote that finds me in complete agreement!

[Frank C]

I find this topic to be very interesting. I have never used anything to polish my pens, but John Mottishaw gave me a Sunshine Cloth to remove the oxidation from an ebonite pen I own.

 

I have used Simichrome on stainless-steel firearms to remove powder residue. It tends to polish the matte stainless-steel finish a bit; I can always tell the parts I've cleaned before. If a polish can remove stainless-steel, I'd be reluctant to use it on plastic.

[PDW]

Just to thank all the expert pen repairers who are contributing their experience and (differing!) opinions to this thread, discussing an issue rationally, knowledgeably and with respect and humility. Your efforts are appreciated by us amateurs/bodgers.

[Manalto]

Just to thank all the expert pen repairers who are contributing their experience and (differing!) opinions to this thread, discussing an issue rationally, knowledgeably and with respect and humility. Your efforts are appreciated by us amateurs/bodgers.

 

I agree. This is really helpful and has probably already prevented some irreversible mistakes.

 

The decision often has to be made (with many vintage and antique items) how far to go with cosmetic procedures. My feeling is that, if a pen is nearly perfect, and it's possible to restore it to like-new condition, why not do it? For me, seeing what it looked like brand new, off the shelf is an interesting time-trip to the aesthetic sensibilities of another era. On the other hand, with a pen that has seen some use and shows wear, that history and character add to its beauty. Attempting like-new restoration just looks cheesy - bright red lipstick on an old lady. Then there are those pens that have been chewed, screwed and tattooed - it's probably best to ship them off to the laboratory of Dr. Frankenpen.

Edited April 9, 2015 by Manalto

[kirchh]

In a pinch, you can also use the tiny brushes sold in drugstores, used to clean out the spaces between teeth and gums. The thin versions are extremely small and flexible, with comfortable handles to grip. I used them quite a bit when cleaning old pens.

 

Excellent suggestion; I use these as well. Thank you.

 

--Daniel

[kirchh]

Micro-gloss liquid abrasive is available in the UK. It comes in two grades.

The ultrasonic cleaner is the best way to remove polish residues as no other method can get into the small crevices where the polish hides. I have no problem with using water based products on hard rubber provided they are not heavily oxidised components, but then I would not polish those anyway.

Water only affects hard rubber if it has an oxidisation layer.

Laurence

 

I must disagree in the strongest terms. I assume you mean that hard rubber pens that do not have obvious visible heavy oxidation -- i.e. serious fading/browning -- can be safely immersed in water, as in an ultrasonic cleaner. In my experience, this is simply incorrect. Hard rubber pens can be chemically damaged by exposure to light (I believe it is the ultraviolet component that does the bulk of the damage), as the crosslinks in the rubber elastomer are broken; this imperils the retention of the fine particulate pigment (carbon black, I believe) that is normally trapped amongst those bonds. In some cases, the pigment remains lightly held in the compromised surface of the article, and so there may be little, if any, color change, though there has been a chemical change to the structure of the material. However, contact with water can instantly wash away these lightly-held black particles, causing instant discoloration (a chemist can explain the exact mechanism at work when that happens -- perhaps it is a matter of competing van der Waals forces?). I have witnessed this phenomenon on more than one occasion; indeed, I have seen the released pigment particles form a skin on the water after an apparently un-oxidized pen was dropped in a bowl.

 

--Daniel