Gold Nib Newbie Here, What Is Your Experience With Gold Nibs?

[AngraMelo]

Hey guys! So, I have 6 or 7 pens on the $30 range and of course, they dont come with a gold nib. I like drawing with my FP and I also like flex nibs. What is your experience with a gold nib? Do they right better or just different than steel? Any recommendations for a gold nib under 150?

 

Best!

[SujiCorp12345]

The Vanishing Point has a 18k gold nib and retails for about 140 USD.

 

It's not a huge difference in comparison to steel nibs in my opinion (for modern pens). Main difference is that gold might look better and when it comes to making a nib more flexible, 14k gold is used.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Suji

[dneal]

They don't write any better or worse than a steel nib. Gold began to be used in order to solve the corroded nib problem. With modern stainless steel, it's unnecessary. Buying a gold nib doesn't mean you get a flexible nib, and I have plenty of gold nibbed pens with little to no flex.

 

If you do want a flex nib made of gold, you need to be looking at vintage pens (which will fall under your $150 range).

[Buzz_130]

There are many fountain pens with gold nibs, but there are very few flex nibs. Many modern pens come with 14k nibs, and you can even find 18k as well. But most modern pens are "nails." This allows us to make quick scratches on paper and get by with terrible handwriting! You would be very hard pressed to find a difference between a modern 14k and steel nib.

 

Flex is something different, and BoBo will probably be by shortly! But you best bet is to find some good vintage pens that are known for great flex (they just so happen to also be gold nibs).

 

Buzz

[KBeezie]

PS: Gold does not mean flex, you can have steel flex nibs, you can have gold flex nibs, but you can also have steel nails, just like there are gold nails. The material doesn't determine flex, how it's made, shaped, etc determines flex.

 

Most of the gold nibs on modern pens you find are relatively firm, or may feel a little soft on the tip but they are by no means flex nibs and should not be pressed/pushed. If a new pen is not advertised as a flex nib, it's not a flex nib.

 

Also while it's not true of every pen, you're more likely to get a flexy nib when it's made before the 40s as the writing style that uses flex was more popular then. But it's not a general rule that just because it's made from that era that you're guaranteed some kind of springiness.

 

Also gold vs steel does not affect smoothness on paper, as you can have a scratchy gold nib just like a scratchy steel nib, and in most cases you're not writing with the gold or steel but whatever the hard tipping is on the front of the nib.

 

The biggest reason to go with gold is resistance to staining/tarnish (14K can still tarnish depending on how it's made and what the alloy is made up of, but you can least blast it in an ultrasonic cleaner or use diluted ammonia on it without harming the gold itself), as well as not corroding which was more important in the past when inks were harsher than they are now days, and when cheaper stainless steel nibs were not as well made as they are now days.

 

Far as gold nibs under $150 or even under $90, you have a couple like the Platinum PTL-5000 for roughly $50-60 that comes with a 14K gold nib:

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/wancher_makie/tsutsuji.jpg

 

Around $60 to $80 you can get a PTL-10000 with an 18K nib

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/ptl10000/uncapped.jpg

 

Around the $100 mark you have Lamy 2000 with a 14K, Pilot Vanishing Point with an 18K (older ones were 14K), tiny bit more expensive is the Pilot Falcon with a 14K Soft nibs, not really full flex but more springy, and a few others.

 

On the vintage side there's a ton of pens under $80 or even under $50 that came with 14K Nibs.

 

Pilot Elite from the 70s with an 18K Soft Fine was $36 shipped from Japan(so *some* degree of flex, not quite as much as the Falcon)

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/pilotelitemini/nib_top.jpg

 

Likewise though in the 70s/80s Elite family there were the 18K Posting Nib and 18K Standard Fine which are pretty firm/rigid

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/collections/shorties_oct2014/posted.jpg

 

The Eversharp Skyline can be had for less than $100 with a 14K Nib (some with advertised flex can be more expensive), but can also come with a 1/10 14K Gold Filled Cap if you really want some 'bling' factor.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/eversharp/skyline/brown_goldfilled/goldfilled_pair.jpg

 

Most of the skylines I've purchased have been pretty firm on the nibs, but the one below does have some degree of flex, going somewhere from a western EF to around a western medium~broad.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/eversharp/skyline/flexy_banner_salix.jpg

 

Nutshell : Goes does not equal flex.

 

If you really want to go flexy for cheap and for atistic purposes, consider buying a nib holder ($2-$4) and a box of Zebra-G dip/comic nibs (box of 10 for $13 at Jet's Pens), the steel nibs are pretty high performance on the flex, but since they're not stainless they will get scratchy after a couple months especially if you don't keep them clean.

 

But here's a write sample with a Zebra-G dip nib, compared to some pens down below including the Noodler's Ahab with it's flex nib.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/inked/zebrag_melon_rhodia.jpg

Edited January 11, 2015 by KBeezie

[AZBennett]

The question you are asking is misleading, though I don't think you are doing it on purpose. And really you only get into "fuzzy" teritory when mentioning flex. Really you are asking two questions.

 

1. Is there a noticeable difference between steel nibs and gold nibs (regardless of nib flexibility)?

 

This question is best answered for modern pens and then for vintage pens when comparing same brand with different nib make (Sheaffers 14kt vs Pdag) etc. Others can junp in on specifics, i will comment that given a decent tuning vintage nibs from 1st and 2nd tier pen manufacturers are wonderful writers, with nib characteristics such as flow, dry-ness and smoothness dependent on nib size you are really talking about particulars that change nib to nib, each pen is different.

 

2. Flex writing ia something I enjoy, is there any surefire way to find flex in a nib under 150? (I am totally putting words in your mouth but you mentioned flx in your original post)

 

The short answer is yes depending on the degree of flex and the condition of the pen. No FP will come anywhere close to a dip pen made to write calligraphy/spencerian/etc. Not even a "super soft weak kneed wet noodle) no matter what any seller says, its not possible. If you want MAX flex, then dip pen is the ONLY way (except for the Desiderata pens but they are in essence a dip nib mated to a custom FP body). Vintage user grade full flex and even what Mauricio terms super flex can be had for 150 and it will almost ALWAYS feature a gold nib (I am aware of some European manufacturers that made steel flex nibs but I haven't personally seen one).

 

I would advice first attempting to write with any pen you purchase before buying. In the event that isn't possible, ALWAYS, ask for a pen specific writing sample (the seller should be providing this anyway with a flex pen). I provide writing samples on any pen I sell that has a modicum of line variation, its just good business sense as it better advertises the pen.

 

I am sure others will chime in, good luck in your search. As an aside I will say I prefer steel rigid/firm EF/F nibs over gold rigid/firm EF/F nibs. However, anything with the smallest flex or even my pens in M/B that are gold just tend to "feel" better when inwrite with them. But that's personal taste.

 

Good luck

Paul

[KBeezie]

ALWAYS, ask for a pen specific writing sample (the seller should be providing this anyway with a flex pen).

+1, I've noticed people's description of flex varies greatly. Such as the skyline I just recently got that was described as a medium with "some serious flex", but their interpretation of just doing a dip test is much different than my interpretation of trying it as it turned out to be a western EF with some spring that wouldn't be much more than what you'd get out of a noodler's ahab (ie: it goes from EF to about M~ , except the nib I have on mine can be done with very little effort compared to the ahab and much smoother/consistent.

 

But we're talking a nib from the 40s that wasn't marked for flex (almost none of them seem marked on the nib, so couldn't always tell just by looking at a pic of them) and varies from pen to pen, nib to nib, so you absolutely must get a write sample to get an accurate idea of what it does.

 

There are some of course that are known to commonly have flex or semi-flex such as a vintage Pelikan 140 that is typically around $100-150 and almost always comes with a semi-flex, and at least the firmer nibs tend to be marked something like DEF or some other D-- code. (I kind of want one of those, but it might be too small if my M250 is my limit for small size).

[Icywolfe]

According to many here Sailor's gold nib are nails. So not all flex.

 

....but if you do want a modern flexlike pen get the Falcon nib.

 

Now you said most of your pens are sub 30 USD well a certain 18k gold nib can be found at 8.60 USD. Hint: Pilot Elite.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Dip pen nibs will give you the flex you want.

 

I have gold and steel pens in most flexes from a number of era's....a good steel nib is as good as a good gold nib.

1920-50's Osmia or Osmia-Faber-Castell is a great nib...and the steel ones as good as the gold ones, in both semi-flex and 'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex.

 

I suggest working your way up the flex ladder. (but most want to jump into the deep end of the pool before learning to swim...and many are disappointed by needing to work at learning to draw letters with a highly flexible nib.)

 

Semi-flex like a Pelikan 140 or Geha 790 (both Gold nibs) would be a good place to start. I was ham fisted like many when I got my first semi-flex....the 140. Semi-flex...is 'almost' flex, not what any would call a 'Flex' nib.

It adds flare to your writing and can 'occasionally' be used for a fancy letter, you learned how to make in stiff nib italic calligraphy.

 

It took me three months for my hand to lighten up enough to move to the next set....'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex...like some '50-65 Pelikan nibs. Do be aware these flex sets, only spread their tines 3X a light down stroke. It is easier to use the six basic strokes one can get from italic calligraphy....you can fancy up your writing more.....these nibs can be used by the 'slightly ham fisted.'

 

 

What you think you want is a nib that spreads 4-5-6 or even 7X a light down stroke....that last is hard to find.

You need a light Hand, for real superflex nibs. And those who use them are more interested in fast snap back to a narrow line, than how wide they can make a letter. I don't practice enough so don't worry about the Noodles. I do have some Easy Full Flex nibs....that I don't work hard enough.

To lazy to learn.

 

First get an Ahab....which is a 'flex' pen....with a semi-flex pressure....which is hard to flex for 'flex' nibs.

 

Then after a month, get the Ahab nib done with an Angle Wing /or Ahab Mod.

That takes the nib from hard to work to fun of superflex. It will be Easy Full Flex.

 

Superflex has three flex levels....Easy Full Flex, Wet Noodle and Weak Kneed Wet Noodles.

 

There are dip pen nibs that make a Wet Noodle look like regular flex. If there is an earthquake in California the nib flexes to the max.

 

Do be prepared to learn how to draw letters when dealing with nibs with real flex. That's why I suggest learning italic calligraphy.

The first time I tried a dip pen nib, with real good flex, I was glad I'd learned how to draw an A&a, in italic calligraphy, in I understood how that letter needs to be drawn. That sure looked better than what I tried before re-opening my calligraphy book.

Edited January 11, 2015 by Bo Bo Olson

[sandy101]

The cheapest pen I got with a gold nib was a Parker 45, which came is at about £15.It works wel, but I can't feel any difference between the gold and steel nibs.

 

I also have a couple of Parker Slimfolds and a Waterman. They Slimfolds need a lot of maintenance to become truly worthwhile - the sacs are a bit delicate and taking the pen apart for a decent clean will mean totally replacing the sacs which I do not have the time, patience or skill for at the moment. The Waterman arrived with an 18K nib and a crack in the section above the nib - I'm not sure if it is repairable, but it looks like an expensive fix. The nib is like a nail. You can have gold nibbed vintage pens, but it's a jungle out there.

 

I bought a modern Platinum Maki-e pen which came with a gold nib. It's not flexible, but it does have a spring to it, which means my handwriting changes slightly when I use it - but not by a huge amount. Certainly it's a different experience to writing with a steel nibbed pen in the same price bracket., but it's not flex.

 

The biggest difference I notice is with the Pilot 78Gs with broad, italic nibs where I can see a distinct line variation, but that's not flex, but because of the way the (stub) nib is cut.

[benbot517]

I got a parker 45 in near mint condition with gold broad nib for $25. It was one of the earliest ones. I find the nib to be nice and springy, not flexy by any means (although with the broad nib variation isn't as pronounced), but certainly adds some flair to my writing. I must say, I was surprised at how springy it was!

[Chrissy]

I prefer writing with gold nibs. I find they have less feedback for my writing style. I have 3 Waterman Phileas pens and have replaced the nibs in all of them with gold L'Etalon nibs. They are much better for it

[AngraMelo]

The question you are asking is misleading, though I don't think you are doing it on purpose. And really you only get into "fuzzy" teritory when mentioning flex. Really you are asking two questions.

 

1. Is there a noticeable difference between steel nibs and gold nibs (regardless of nib flexibility)?

 

This question is best answered for modern pens and then for vintage pens when comparing same brand with different nib make (Sheaffers 14kt vs Pdag) etc. Others can junp in on specifics, i will comment that given a decent tuning vintage nibs from 1st and 2nd tier pen manufacturers are wonderful writers, with nib characteristics such as flow, dry-ness and smoothness dependent on nib size you are really talking about particulars that change nib to nib, each pen is different.

 

2. Flex writing ia something I enjoy, is there any surefire way to find flex in a nib under 150? (I am totally putting words in your mouth but you mentioned flx in your original post)

 

The short answer is yes depending on the degree of flex and the condition of the pen. No FP will come anywhere close to a dip pen made to write calligraphy/spencerian/etc. Not even a "super soft weak kneed wet noodle) no matter what any seller says, its not possible. If you want MAX flex, then dip pen is the ONLY way (except for the Desiderata pens but they are in essence a dip nib mated to a custom FP body). Vintage user grade full flex and even what Mauricio terms super flex can be had for 150 and it will almost ALWAYS feature a gold nib (I am aware of some European manufacturers that made steel flex nibs but I haven't personally seen one).

 

I would advice first attempting to write with any pen you purchase before buying. In the event that isn't possible, ALWAYS, ask for a pen specific writing sample (the seller should be providing this anyway with a flex pen). I provide writing samples on any pen I sell that has a modicum of line variation, its just good business sense as it better advertises the pen.

 

I am sure others will chime in, good luck in your search. As an aside I will say I prefer steel rigid/firm EF/F nibs over gold rigid/firm EF/F nibs. However, anything with the smallest flex or even my pens in M/B that are gold just tend to "feel" better when inwrite with them. But that's personal taste.

 

Good luck

Paul

Thank you very much my friend. Im really not trying to creat any "fuzz" I am a complete newbie to the passion and I only own entry level pens, Im still gathering information to make more precise purchases that will fulfill my expectations. Thank you for taking the time to explain to me.

Edited January 11, 2015 by AngraMelo

[redisburning]

Hey guys! So, I have 6 or 7 pens on the $30 range and of course, they dont come with a gold nib. I like drawing with my FP and I also like flex nibs. What is your experience with a gold nib? Do they right better or just different than steel? Any recommendations for a gold nib under 150?

 

Best!

 

In order

 

• Of the nearly 50 pens I've owned since I began doing the fountain pen thing about 4 years ago, I think the number of steel nibs has numbered 4. So that's quite a bit of experience I suppose. Some have been positive, others negative
• That is too general a question. The best gold nibs are better than the best steel nibs I've owned. For how informed the average person, even the average self proclaimed fountain pen person obsessed with only one small piece of the puzzle, I can make a steel nib write as well as any gold nib, or vice versa. Still, I buy the gold nibs because they are a better base to start from in terms of their scope of manufacture
• Your budget allows for a Waterman's Ideal 52. It will have flex. I hope you know what you want; I find the strange obsession with flex for a first real pen to be somewhat analogous to people insisting on buying santokus.

[AngraMelo]

Guys, I just want to thank everybody that spent time trying to answer my bad formulated question. I am just starting is this world of FP and the information out there can me a little misleading. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge with me.

 

best!

 

Thiago

[AngraMelo]

 

 

In order

 

• Of the nearly 50 pens I've owned since I began doing the fountain pen thing about 4 years ago, I think the number of steel nibs has numbered 4. So that's quite a bit of experience I suppose. Some have been positive, others negative
• That is too general a question. The best gold nibs are better than the best steel nibs I've owned. For how informed the average person, even the average self proclaimed fountain pen person obsessed with only one small piece of the puzzle, I can make a steel nib write as well as any gold nib, or vice versa. Still, I buy the gold nibs because they are a better base to start from in terms of their scope of manufacture
• Your budget allows for a Waterman's Ideal 52. It will have flex. I hope you know what you want; I find the strange obsession with flex for a first real pen to be somewhat analogous to people insisting on buying santokus.

 

I use my fountain pens primarily for drawing, I've been using dip pens for a while now, they are a so much fun! I was just curious to know if it is possible to get the flexibility the resembles a dip pen but in a FP for a modest price.

Edited January 11, 2015 by AngraMelo

[balson]

Why not look into a vintage sheaffer pen? you can find them restored with a 14k nib for around $30. in your price range there are a ton of vintage FP's out there that you can get. even the some of the old sterling silver watermans can be had and restored within your price range.

[Brian K]

The only direct comparison of gold vs. steel I can make is with the Parker 45. I have both types of nibs and, while I find that the gold nibs are a bit softer/springier than the steel nibs, both give very satisfying writing experiences. This has more to do with the tipping (likely the same on both nibs) and how Parker shaped and smoothed them back then.

 

A properly manufactured and tuned steel nib will outperform a poorly manufactured gold nib every time. Do a bit of research and check out the review section for pens in your price range. And speaking of your price range, I will join the chorus of those suggesting you check out vintage pens. For $150 or less you will find that you can get a much better vintage pen than you can a new one. You'll more likely find a gold nib but the important thing is the fact that 50, 60 or many more years ago they were making many more pens than nowadays. The more you do something the better you get at it so older nibs are likely to be more consistent and representative of the highest standards. While there are a lot of good second and third tier pens you might want to stick to vintage first tier pens such as Parker, Waterman, Sheaffer, Eversharp, et al because the first tier companies had more resouces to put into their products and, generally produced better nibs - many of which could have the flex you like.

 

As for steel nibs you can get some very good nibs at very good prices if you learn a bit about Esterbrook pens. I have a few pens and several nibs and the Esterbrook 9668 medium is one of my favorite nibs to write with right now. They also have a few flex nibs (I own a couple) that write surprisingly well for pens that were produced as budget models!

 

Go9od luck and good hunting!!

Edited January 12, 2015 by Brian K

[redisburning]

For $150 or less you will find that you can get a much better vintage pen than you can a new one. You'll more likely find a gold nib but the important thing is the fact that 50, 60 or many more years ago they were making many more pens than nowadays.

 

As a counter argument, there is a 10/10 chance that any pen made today that has a 150 dollar street price has noticeably tighter tolerances than ANY pen made even 30 years ago, much less 60.

 

Also, I am curious what vintage pen I might buy for 150 dollars or less that is much better than a Lamy 2000, Pilot Vanishing Point or Sailor 1911 Large. I have personally purchased one of each within the last 12 months for less than 150 US dollars. I should be very keen to purchase a pen that significantly outshines these, as each has proven decent enough to retain in a collection many strong of vintage Parkers and indeed many modern pens costing 2-3x as much.

Edited January 12, 2015 by redisburning

[AZBennett]

I think the difference is what you desire the pen to accomplish and what you value aesthetically. Personally I prefer vintage pens as I have always been a fan of art deco styles and am a huge history buff. I also enjoy tinkering/repairing pens and I can do that with vintage pens. One of my best writers is a Sheaffers Snorkel that I purchased, repaired and tuned all for under 50 USD. It competes head to head against any other pen I currently own and I would be hard pressed to find a pen inhave used that is more satisfying to write with. I have a Parker 45 that also competes with any of my other pens and it was purchased in working order for less than 20 USD. So vintage pens can and do hold up to modern pen performance, but that's just my experience. I do love my KK INK and the Vanishing Point and am looking forward to the arrival od a Platinum 3776 because I have heard those are amazing writers for the money. But I don't imagine I will ever move away from vintage pens as they hold a place in my heart that also goes beyond just being a writing tool. The history each vintage pen has is important to me and I enjoy that aspect of them.

 

Again just personal experiences/preferences.

 

Paul