"MB Precious resin" vs a "Glock" pistol

[RLTodd]

.....Sorry, but as celluloid is cellulose acetate, I don't think so. How much cellulose (which is the fibrous part) do you think there would be in sap?

 

......

 

Sorry for putting this in so late but Celluloid was the trademarked name for Cellulose Nitrate, which was later supplanted by the more stable Cellulose Acetate.

 

 

 

[Ranvir]

Long back I had the opportunity to work in an Epoxy resin plant in Thailand.

In chemistry, epoxy or polyepoxide is a thermosetting epoxide polymer that cures (polymerizes and crosslinks) when mixed with a catalyzing agent or "hardener". Most common epoxy resins are produced from a reaction between epichlorohydrin and bisphenol-A.

Epoxy resins are used to make-

high Tensile Adhesives

In paints

Coating of refrigerators

Eletric Insulators

Coating of coke/beer/soda cans

 

Cannot prove this is the 'precious resin' but some of the resin I have seen has a shine to it and is very hard and brittle.

[ture]

Glocks don't break. However, they do melt. Fire a few too many rounds without stopping and see what happens.

 

I have seen a guy set fire to Hämmerli SP20 sport pistol. He was using soot from a cigarette lighter to blacken the sights, and things got a bit overboard.

 

(Actually, I doubt it was actually the pistol itself burning, the flame probably came from carbon deposited on the gun or condensated lighter fluid or something... that doesn't make nearly as good an anecdote, though. Good thing pens don't need blackening, I doubt an MB would react well to a lighter!)

 

 

[mr T.]

Ive looked for a thread on precious resin, and I swear I can remember reading one, but I cannot find one on what exactly "precious resin" is composed of...

Is it a polymer? Is there a glass component?

 

It's Plexiglass. There is no glass in Plexiglass. Some threads where this is (also) discussed are this thread, this thread and this thread.

Edited October 22, 2007 by mr T.

[punch]

To heck with "precious resin" and the Glock! Give me a steel Smith & Wesson revolver and a Dupont pen. As a civilian, if I cannot take care of my personal issues with six .45 cal. bullets from my Model 25 Smith and Wesson, it was just my day to die anyway. As for pens, I prefer metal over any kind of plastic; the heavier the better.

 

BTW - there are far more "precious" resins used in aviation and aerospace than one may imagine. Some do break when dropped, and they cost a lot more than ANY MB pen! It just depends on what qualities you want out of them. There are some extremely strong graphite and boron resins that use epoxy in the mix. Very strong and durable. They do not polish up very good in my experience (although, perhaps, a good lacquer would fix this). There are other resins mixed with ceramic that would look quite good if made into a pen. However, they would be most difficult to work with and would be rather fragile. Now, if you accidentally left your pen under a blowtorch, it may survive. I have some titanium epoxy resin in the basement that is able to be machined when cured. It would be interesting to see what someone could do with that. Works good for making repairs on pump shafts and impellers, and I have used it for making repairs on some crankshafts. Never tried polishing it or painting it yet.

[wdyasq]

To heck with "precious resin" and the Glock! Give me a steel Smith & Wesson revolver and a Dupont pen. As a civilian, if I cannot take care of my personal issues with six .45 cal. bullets from my Model 25 Smith and Wesson, it was just my day to die anyway. As for pens, I prefer metal over any kind of plastic; the heavier the better.

 

BTW - there are far more "precious" resins used in aviation and aerospace than one may imagine. Some do break when dropped, and they cost a lot more than ANY MB pen! It just depends on what qualities you want out of them. There are some extremely strong graphite and boron resins that use epoxy in the mix. Very strong and durable. They do not polish up very good in my experience (although, perhaps, a good lacquer would fix this). There are other resins mixed with ceramic that would look quite good if made into a pen. However, they would be most difficult to work with and would be rather fragile. Now, if you accidentally left your pen under a blowtorch, it may survive. I have some titanium epoxy resin in the basement that is able to be machined when cured. It would be interesting to see what someone could do with that. Works good for making repairs on pump shafts and impellers, and I have used it for making repairs on some crankshafts. Never tried polishing it or painting it yet.

I would select my M58 in .41Mag and my Parker "51" as both are extremely reliable more tools and are than is needed in most occasions. If it takes more than that, there is a reason for the Vulcan, word-processors and printing presses.

 

Ron

[QM2]

Glocks don't break. However, they do melt. Fire a few too many rounds without stopping and see what happens.

 

Glocks may not break, but they do jam. Two separate occasions on a firing range were enough to convince me to never touch one again. Thankfully, I have no such experiences to complain of when it comes to my MBs.

 

As for the 5 shattered MBs -- that's rather impressive! Ironically, the only one of my pens that I've ever seriously dropped is my MB 145 -- twice! And I think this was precisely because I was so afraid to drop it, knowing of its shatter-prone reputation -- so thank you for jinxing me, FPNers! However, I can report that for me the drops were uncharacteristically consequence-free: no cracks, no shattering.

 

QM2

Edited December 29, 2007 by QM2

[donwinn]

MB says that the resin is made of tree sap dyed to colour.

I've also heard this, in which case it makes sense in MB's market: natural materials are considered to be more desirable than synthetics.

 

Consider men's dress shirts: at the bottom, the cloth is almost all polyester, at the middle- and upper-class level, 100% cotton is king, and then luxury levels are all cotton of various rare grades and tighter, more expensive weaves. (I hate the way polyester blends feel, and so I end up with a lot of 100% cotton ironing...)

 

 

You can actually purchase 100% cotton wrinkle free shirts from a variety of sources. I have some from Mens Wearhouse (Joseph Fleiss brand, $50 per shirt) and some from JC Penney (house brand, from $5 on sale, to $28 each) and the cost difference is fairly quickly made up in less spent on ironing, starch, or laundry costs, depending upon how you do your shirts.

 

Donnie

[donwinn]

To heck with "precious resin" and the Glock! Give me a steel Smith & Wesson revolver and a Dupont pen. As a civilian, if I cannot take care of my personal issues with six .45 cal. bullets from my Model 25 Smith and Wesson, it was just my day to die anyway. As for pens, I prefer metal over any kind of plastic; the heavier the better.

 

BTW - there are far more "precious" resins used in aviation and aerospace than one may imagine. Some do break when dropped, and they cost a lot more than ANY MB pen! It just depends on what qualities you want out of them. There are some extremely strong graphite and boron resins that use epoxy in the mix. Very strong and durable. They do not polish up very good in my experience (although, perhaps, a good lacquer would fix this). There are other resins mixed with ceramic that would look quite good if made into a pen. However, they would be most difficult to work with and would be rather fragile. Now, if you accidentally left your pen under a blowtorch, it may survive. I have some titanium epoxy resin in the basement that is able to be machined when cured. It would be interesting to see what someone could do with that. Works good for making repairs on pump shafts and impellers, and I have used it for making repairs on some crankshafts. Never tried polishing it or painting it yet.

I would select my M58 in .41Mag and my Parker "51" as both are extremely reliable more tools and are than is needed in most occasions. If it takes more than that, there is a reason for the Vulcan, word-processors and printing presses.

 

Ron

 

I was in a pawn shop once, and looked at a small .380 ACP five shot semi auto, and opined to the proprietor that it didn't have much capacity, only five shots. He replied that if you are in more trouble than you can get out of with five shots, you are in more trouble than you can get out of with a handgun. Probably true.

 

Donnie

[Titivillus]

Not sure I can agree with the statement about the reliability of the guns you mentioned. Yes Ploymer can melt. Apparently one could melt a Glock if they tried hard enough.

 

The statement is not entirely true some polymers can be melted but others burn or char. It depends on whether it is a crystalline or amorphous resin. Also post pressing heat treating can do things like cross link the material so you get a bowling ball which is one molecule

 

 

Kurt

 

 

[goodguy]

Dont know much about Plastic,nylon or resin but I can tell you I shot more then few rounds with the Glock and I didnt like it.The only good thing about this gun is its light weight.Other then that I wouldnt carry it on me!!!

[FredRydr]

All this talk about handguns. If you really are into killing someone, the sharp end of a solidly-mounted steel nib might do in a pinch, but you're gonna have to get close and personal when you do the deed.

 

Fred

[wdyasq]

Dont know much about Plastic,nylon or resin but I can tell you I shot more then few rounds with the Glock and I didnt like it.The only good thing about this gun is its light weight.Other then that I wouldnt carry it on me!!!

I didn't understand the Glock when I first bought one. At about 100 rounds it got to where I would tolerate it. At about 500 rounds it started feeling natural. After about 1000 rounds, I could keep all the shots in a 10" circle at 5 years ... emptying the 17 round magazine in well less than 3 seconds.

 

If it HAS to be a pistol, I would still rather have a familiar wheel gun in .357 or greater caliber if engaging few targets at less than 10 yards. For a larger or unknown number of targets, an automatic is the tool of choice at short ranges, assuming the pistol is still the required tool. A shotgun is the best close range tool I am familiar with. As ranges increase, the weapon choice will change. It is still best to deliver accuracy rather than quantity.

 

If the choice of combat is known before hand, it is best to avoid it. If unavoidable, one wants to keep the odds in his favor. A crutch is better than bare hands in a fight, a gun better than a crutch. All will do no good unless one is willing to use such a weapon. If one choses to use a gun, they must be prepared to kill unless the presence of a gun changes the attitude of adversary.

 

Ron

[Kalessin]

Discussion in this topic has wandered far away from Montblanc, and is making no moves back to MB, and so this topic been closed.

Edited January 4, 2008 by Kalessin