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Moore (F)Or Less


jdllizard

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Bought this recently off "the bay" for about the cost of someone's morning coffee. I just love the coloring and striping. It's a Moore, lever fill, a brand I've never heard of but I'm new to fountain pens so there's probably thousands of brands out there I've never heard of. It actually writes but has an ink feeding problem. I doubt I'll fiddle with it to much, but it sure is purty to look at.

 

 

post-117098-0-77520300-1413180902_thumb.jpg

John L

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You bought yourself a very nice pen! I've been involved in Moores for a little while, so if you need any info, PM me. I'm guessing that has a Moore "Maniflex" nib on it, and assuming it is in good shape, and is adjusted correctly, you would have a hard time finding a nicer writing nib. They hit a sweet spot between a nib stiff enough for fast, everyday writing, and yet gives a bit of flex with just a little pressure. Good stuff.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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I just checked with my loupe and it is indeed a Maniflex nib. The tip looks to be in very good condition, the nib is just gunked up . I think I'll soak it and see if I can get it to feed the ink through properly.

John L

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You may find it is marked 94-A. This model is super popular with our customers. Here's an old listing with some photos....

 

http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/moore-94a-fountain-pen-1940s-brown-grey-striped-marble-14k-life-maniflex-nib-excellent-restored.html

 

Teri

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You may find it is marked 94-A. This model is super popular with our customers.

 

Hey, Teri, if you ever come across company documentation or catalogs, we need to put our heads together. My impression was that there isn't much out there, but I have some other models that don't have any designations, mostly smaller versions (not the 92-A), and it would be interesting to get a bit more history on the models, changes in hardware, etc.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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Hey, Teri, if you ever come across company documentation or catalogs, we need to put our heads together. My impression was that there isn't much out there, but I have some other models that don't have any designations, mostly smaller versions (not the 92-A), and it would be interesting to get a bit more history on the models, changes in hardware, etc.

 

I will make it my mission! Collaborating with you would be a blast, Jon :-)

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You may find it is marked 94-A. This model is super popular with our customers. Here's an old listing with some photos....

 

http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/moore-94a-fountain-pen-1940s-brown-grey-striped-marble-14k-life-maniflex-nib-excellent-restored.html

 

Teri

 

It is marked 92 A, which I assume is a smaller size than the 94? The pen is in great condition other than a very slight bulge near the filling lever, but I think I can fix it with a hair dryer or hot water (it's barely noticable, I had the pen for a week before I noticed it). That, and the NIB doesn't seem to be feeding properly, it needs tweeking, but it looks to be in fantastic shape. It's marked MOORE LIFE MANIFLEX and appears to be gold plated(?). All the gold trim polished up nicely as well, and besides the barely noticable bulge by the lever, it's a great looking pen.

Since I'm more of an Estie guy, I have no idea of the value (if any), is it worth having someone who knows what they are doing work on the NIB/ink feeding iissue? Are the 92 A's collectible too or just the 94's?

John L

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These Moores are certainly not in the upper regions of collecting, save for a couple of very scarce models, but they are just inching up a bit. That nib is not gold plated, that is a solid 14k nib. Unless you've done this a lot, I would leave the bulge alone - you can easily make things worse *very* fast. As to flow, that is something that needs to be addressed (most probably) by removing the feed and nib. Again, if this is not something you have done in the past, it might make sense to have someone look into this for you.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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There is a conversation about Moore sizes and model designations in this thread.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/259721-moore-92/

Catalogs can be seen in the PCA Library.

 

However, unless I missed one of the documents, there aren't any catalogs dealing with these later, celluloid offerings. The last (dated) catalog I've seen in the PCA library is from the mid-1920s, IIRC.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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That Moore thread that is linked to above was one I posted a while back. I still have not been able to find a single example of the pen I have on the internet nor any information about the my model. I would love any more info! Mine also has a fine maniflex nib and is a great pen for school. I like that while writing great monoline, I can instantly use the flex (it is great for when I get bored taking notes :) ). I had it restored by Eldon Braun, who did a great job and put an original Moore clip on the cap.

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It is marked 92 A, which I assume is a smaller size than the 94? The pen is in great condition other than a very slight bulge near the filling lever, but I think I can fix it with a hair dryer or hot water (it's barely noticable, I had the pen for a week before I noticed it). That, and the NIB doesn't seem to be feeding properly, it needs tweeking, but it looks to be in fantastic shape. It's marked MOORE LIFE MANIFLEX and appears to be gold plated(?). All the gold trim polished up nicely as well, and besides the barely noticable bulge by the lever, it's a great looking pen.

Since I'm more of an Estie guy, I have no idea of the value (if any), is it worth having someone who knows what they are doing work on the NIB/ink feeding iissue? Are the 92 A's collectible too or just the 94's?

 

You have a pen made by a manufacturer whose roots go back to Boston at the turn of the last century with Safety pens like this.

 

fpn_1365528622__moorerhropen.jpg

 

Definitely collectable pens,

 

Your pen, from the 1930's, may need nothing more complicated than a cleaning of the feed. If the pen is inked, empty and flush it until expelled water runs clear. Mix a solution of ammonia and water (about 1:10). Stand the pen, nib down, with the solution covering about half way up the black section. Let stand overnight. When you check the next day, traces of ink might be seen in the solution. This would indicate that dried ink has been clogged in the feed and the solution has started (if not completely) dissolved it. Flush thoroughly and use, or if necessary soak again.

 

If this does not work, next steps could be:

 

1. Remove section from pen. Remove sac from section. Use an ear bulb to force ammonia/water through the section and/or run the whole front end through a hydrosonic cleaner. If this doesn't do the trick, as a last resort...

 

2. Knock out the nib and feed and clean both (including the channel in the feed and the underside of the nib) thoroughly. Re-setting the nib/feed can sometimes be problematic. If you're at all uncomfortable doing this, the pen is well worth the cost of lunch to have someone do it for you.

 

Too sweet a pen to not have in working condition.

 

Good luck with it.

Edited by DanDeM
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DanDeM, I do think we have to be careful: the OP says they are "new to fountain pens", and I cringe a bit when one of the instructions is simply "Remove section from pen".

 

For those of us that have gotten more involved with our own pen repair/restoration, that may (or may not) be a big deal, but heating the barrel of a vintage pen to get the shellac to release enough so you can pull the section out without risking damage is... not for first-timer's, right? ;)

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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DanDeM, I do think we have to be careful: the OP says they are "new to fountain pens", and I cringe a bit when one of the instructions is simply "Remove section from pen".

 

For those of us that have gotten more involved with our own pen repair/restoration, that may (or may not) be a big deal, but heating the barrel of a vintage pen to get the shellac to release enough so you can pull the section out without risking damage is... not for first-timer's, right? ;)

Yep.

 

This applies to all of the above.

 

"If you're at all uncomfortable doing this, the pen is well worth the cost of lunch to have someone do it for you."

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Spot on.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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DanDeM, I do think we have to be careful: the OP says they are "new to fountain pens", and I cringe a bit when one of the instructions is simply "Remove section from pen".

 

For those of us that have gotten more involved with our own pen repair/restoration, that may (or may not) be a big deal, but heating the barrel of a vintage pen to get the shellac to release enough so you can pull the section out without risking damage is... not for first-timer's, right? ;)

 

No worries. While I am new to fountain pens, in the week or so since I posted this I have bought a section pliers and rebuilt about 6 Esterbrooks, the Moore, another no name pen, plus the two I'm working on right now. Including replacing sacs and J-Bars as well as polishing and buffing out blemishes. You'll note that I am only working on lower end pens right now though, I'm not so egotistacas to think I can do anything, and I did crush an Estie section (the first one I tried to work on).

I did light delicate mechanical and electronics work for 23 years, so I'm pretty good with my hands when it comes to small hand tools and having a *feel* for something.

 

Now if I can just stop losing pieces!

John L

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Well, BOOM! Good on you, John - it is not only fun, but so rewarding when you personally bring a pen back to life.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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Citing from one of the pen reference sites Rosspens, who also cites history reference presented is from Fred Plewa's article in Pen World 1990. Ross's collection of Moore clip comparison photos suggest that if the clip is original to this pen, this style clip originated in 1941.

(not including a link without permission, but thanks Ross for maintaining your study site).

appears to be a similar trim ring on the cap, the glare in your photo makes yours appear less than 7.

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Citing from one of the pen reference sites Rosspens, who also cites history reference presented is from Fred Plewa's article in Pen World 1990. Ross's collection of Moore clip comparison photos suggest that if the clip is original to this pen, this style clip originated in 1941.

(not including a link without permission, but thanks Ross for maintaining your study site).

appears to be a similar trim ring on the cap, the glare in your photo makes yours appear less than 7.

I compared mine to the photo you mention and it is the same, but my cap ring only has 5 rings.

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of that site, much appreciated. I've now bookmarked it for future reference.

John L

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