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Fixing Scratched Celluloid

celluloid repair parker vacumatic

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28 replies to this topic

#21 Brian Anderson

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Posted 01 August 2014 - 19:27

with Micro-mesh, the rule is to always use it wet, take your time, and always mask imprint or trim until you get to 8000 grit.  On vintage pens I often stop at 8000 unless I want a high gloss becuase 12000 sometimes looks unnatural on a vintage pen.  Most weren't that shiny to begin with.


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#22 GG917

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 12:46

with Micro-mesh, the rule is to always use it wet, take your time, and always mask imprint or trim until you get to 8000 grit.  On vintage pens I often stop at 8000 unless I want a high gloss becuase 12000 sometimes looks unnatural on a vintage pen.  Most weren't that shiny to begin with.

 

I have tried to use micromesh wet bu the masking I use, sort of the one used when painting walls, just keep on ungluing itself. What sort of masking do you use in conjonction of wet micromesh? The one used by electricians?



#23 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 13:21

I use the 3M green stuff though I might also use the blue. I don't scrimp on cheap masking tape, the 3M stuff is worth the bit extree. They are the uber-gods of adhesives. 3M green isn't impervious to water by any means, but it's better than the cheapie tan stuff. Marimba, you are dancing on the Thin line of it staying on when damp Vs Not leaving residue after being stuck on for awhile. 

 

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#24 bsenn

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 15:25

If I am using wet micromesh I use electrical tape to mask imprints and cap bands. It stays on when wet, and I have had no problems with residue (its on the pen less than an hour). I take it off before the 8000 grit.

I agree that 3m tape is worth the extra $, whatever task you are talking about.

Brian

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#25 GG917

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 21:18

Thanks for the tip guys, With this masking tape I'll be able to do a better job. With dry micromesh I do get good results but the polishing after the micromesh treatment is sometimes quite long....

I have tried a few time with wet micromesh on barrel with no imprint, way better than using micromesh dry. But the paper masking tape was driving me mad with wet micromesh, I had to change it after every two grades of micromesh...



#26 Dan Solomon

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 21:28

+1 on the Ron Zorn's polish. Great stuff!



#27 Chi Town

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 23:55

I'm a Simichrome guy, this stuff has always done a good job for me......Except when it come to the Gold, then I break out the Gold polish.....


Mike

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#28 GAtkins

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 05:07

I'm a Simichrome guy, this stuff has always done a good job for me......Except when it come to the Gold, then I break out the Gold polish.....

 

@Chi Town, which gold polish do you use?  Thanks.

 

Glenn



#29 S-K

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Posted 03 August 2014 - 08:50

My preffered method is buffing with the wheel,  of course with all the precautions and care...


One Day I'll Grow Up Like My Master.

 

 

 






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