Jump to content

Charcoal Grey Ink?


Alexcat

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Davros

    4

  • AllenG

    3

  • Biber

    2

  • Alexcat

    2

Top Posters In This Topic

With a wet nib, PR gray flannel turns pretty dark (at least IMO)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some grays have a pronounced tint to them, usually green or blue. It's my understanding the the Diamine graphite tends to lean green. Though I haven'T used my PR gray flannel in a long long time, I believe I remember to going on a bit greenish but becoming quite neutral after it dried. Actually it was the first ink I ever bought way back when. What sold it for me was how it looked in artaddict's review (https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/59325-private-reserve-gray-flannel/ )

"What? What's that? WHAT?!!! SPEAK UP, I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!" - Ludwig van Beethoven.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iroshizuku take-sumi is supposedly a charcoal color - darker than an average gray but not black. I like it, actually I prefer this ink to black as the harsh edge is missing but has enough contrast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im keen to get grey ink, in an 'almost black' shade.....

 

I use Noodler's Lexington for my 'almost black' grey. And free of any greenish hue that some have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iroshizuku take-sumi is supposedly a charcoal color - darker than an average gray but not black. I like it, actually I prefer this ink to black as the harsh edge is missing but has enough contrast.

 

Yes, looks like it goes from dark gray to black depending on the pen width, flow and paper.

In a world where there are no eyes the sun would not be light, and in a world where there were no soft skins rocks would not be hard, nor in a world where there were no muscles would they be heavy. Existence is relationship and you're smack in the middle of it.

- Alan Watts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the rare occasions that I use gray, the gray I use is whichever black I pick up dilluted with a little water. I primarily use Noodler's and Private Reserve and both are fairly saturated so the result seems to perform ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

De-Atramants Gaius Julius Caesar might be an option for you: (http://De-Atramants Gaius Julius Caesar ); I also remember a German ink - basaltgrau by Barock inks - being a dark charcoal gray, though I can't seem to find and scans of it anymore.

"What? What's that? WHAT?!!! SPEAK UP, I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!" - Ludwig van Beethoven.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might take a look at Visconti Black. It doesn't seem real black-black to me. For me it isn't quite light enough for a grey so I sometimes dilute it. So it might work for you.

To hold a pen is to be at war. - Voltaire
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doni't ilke the green tinge to graphite

 

OS Arsenic is lighter except on Stilman & Birn for some reason where it appears darker o.O guess that paper soaks up more of it. Not exactly charcoal in either case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33583
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26771
    5. jar
      jar
      26105
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...