Jump to content

Diamine Inks And Staining?


MX5l

Recommended Posts

I just bought a few Diamine inks (Oxblood, Asa blue, Ochre, Macassar, Ancient Copper) and I was planning to use some of them in my M800 and Lamy Vista. Should I be aware of any staining issues that these inks have? Also, I've read that these inks can sometimes have a sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Should that be any cause for concern?

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 24
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • amberleadavis

    3

  • MX5l

    3

  • mhosea

    2

  • hypnostene

    2

Top Posters In This Topic

I can only comment on Oxblood: no stains on my demonstrator TWSBI; very easy to clean converters in other pens. Also easy to clean on my hands etc, generally well behaved (same goes for Sherwood Green, not at all for Onyx Black, which stains like hell).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In general be wary of red dye. Probably try the ancient copper +oxblood in a converter first. That way worst comes to worst you only stain a converter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In general be wary of red dye. Probably try the ancient copper +oxblood in a converter first. That way worst comes to worst you only stain a converter

Is there a reason to why red dyes are susceptible to staining?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used all three with no staining in my TWSBIs. The only stains I have ever struggled with have been from Diamine Grape. Purples have been bigger problems for me than reds ever dreamed of being. I used reds between problem purples to help clean. I don't think you'll have any troubles.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only comment on Oxblood: no stains on my demonstrator TWSBI; very easy to clean converters in other pens. Also easy to clean on my hands etc, generally well behaved (same goes for Sherwood Green, not at all for Onyx Black, which stains like hell).

 

Is Onyx black staining pens? I have one 30 ml bottle and thinking of inking my new vac-700 demonstrator, so that is a wrong idea?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Diamine is a lot better than other inks in terms of lack of staining. I have used midnight and sapphire blue.quick flush removed all colour from my TWSBI 580. As I'm a blue person, my advice is to be wary of sargasso sea and majestic blue as there have been numerous reports of higher maintenance (staining etc)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Is Onyx black staining pens? I have one 30 ml bottle and thinking of inking my new vac-700 demonstrator, so that is a wrong idea?

 

My experience doesn't point to 'staining' as much as 'not very easy to clean'. But that's because after 2 tries I gave up on using it in a demonstrator. Note the first 3star review here though:

 

http://www.gouletpens.com/Diamine_80ml_Onyx_Black_Ink_p/d7053.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are worried, try them first in the Vista. :)

 

Overall, just keep the inks clean and if you use a highly saturated ink, then follow it with a good flush and a totally different color.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All inks stain. That is their job. However, some inks stain more than others.

 

Dyes are made from Organic Chemicals, which tend to have colours in the Ultra-Violet spectrum. By modifying the molecule so that it is distorted, you can change the colour towards Blue. The more the distortion, the more the colour changes, from Blue through Green to Red.

The Red molecules are the most unstable, which is why Red t-shirts fade on the washing line most quickly.

 

I would assume that is why Red dyes would tend to stain more, as there is more energy tied up in the molecule. Just speculating...

fpn_1412827311__pg_d_104def64.gif




“Them as can do has to do for them as can’t.


And someone has to speak up for them as has no voices.”


Granny Aching

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First, I use a 50/50 mix of Diamine Midnight and Diamine Eclipse. The Midnight is just too light colored for me after it's dried, and the Eclipse is too dark and close to purple on its own, but together they make a very nice blue-black.

My wife and I were vacationing in Jacksonville Beach a few weeks ago and my Kaweco Classic Sport came unscrewed in my pocket while we were walking on the beach. I didn't realize it for a while, so I had a large, blue-black stain (quarter sized) in the pocket and a slightly smaller stain (nickel sized) on the outside when I finally found out. I was mad because they were the only pair I had with me and the pants were still new. I knew I had at least 24 hours before I would be home to use the washing machine. Until then, I just wore them--this time, leaving the Kaweco in the hotel room. We drove home the following day and made it in just before midnight. I was tired and collapsed in bed, forgetting about the stain until the following morning (T+36 hours). I rain the washer on warm, pre-treated with Shout, and used Tide Cold Water. 30 minutes later when the cycle finished, there was no trace of a stain.

So... maybe the original question was about a different kind of staining, but you should know it's possible to wash out Diamine just in case something goes awry.

HTH

Enjoy your new inks!

- - -

 

Currently trying to sell a Pelikan M400 White Tortoise. PM if you're interested. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The general advice I've read is not to keep saturated red/violet inks in pens for long periods.

Blues and blacks are the safest, and generally the more boring the ink color, the safer it is.

Edited by proton007

In a world where there are no eyes the sun would not be light, and in a world where there were no soft skins rocks would not be hard, nor in a world where there were no muscles would they be heavy. Existence is relationship and you're smack in the middle of it.

- Alan Watts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just bought a few Diamine inks (Oxblood, Asa blue, Ochre, Macassar, Ancient Copper) and I was planning to use some of them in my M800 and Lamy Vista. Should I be aware of any staining issues that these inks have? Also, I've read that these inks can sometimes have a sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Should that be any cause for concern?

 

Thanks

I'd be cautious with the Ancient Copper, but I've used the others in a range of Pelikan (800,700,400) and MontBlanc pens (149,146,342) with no issues. Cleanup has alway been fast and thorough with plain water. Sargasso Sea is very saturated and took a bit more flushing to clear from my Vista.

✒️ :happyberet:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you are not using the colours in pens with sacs, I'd tend to be sanguine about them.

 

I have had a clear P17 Lady sac stained nearly black by one fill of Diamine Sapphire Blue. I was less than happy as the pen still has its chalk marks.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are worried, try them first in the Vista. :)

 

Overall, just keep the inks clean and if you use a highly saturated ink, then follow it with a good flush and a totally different color.

That's probably the safest thing to do. Will it behave differently in the Vista in terms of staining? The Vista section is ABS while the inner barrel of the Pelikan is celluloid cotton?

 

I'd be cautious with the Ancient Copper, but I've used the others in a range of Pelikan (800,700,400) and MontBlanc pens (149,146,342) with no issues. Cleanup has alway been fast and thorough with plain water. Sargasso Sea is very saturated and took a bit more flushing to clear from my Vista.

Is that only because of the crusting issue? I think I read here that the issue is benign :unsure: Will it actually potentially damage the pen or is it more of a matter of convenience in this case?

 

As you are not using the colours in pens with sacs, I'd tend to be sanguine about them.

 

I have had a clear P17 Lady sac stained nearly black by one fill of Diamine Sapphire Blue. I was less than happy as the pen still has its chalk marks.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

Ouch, that sucks :(

Despite the Pelikan not having a sac, I'd still prefer not to stain the inside of the barrel, as it is somewhat translucent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've not seen any staining with Ancient Copper or Red Dragon. Sapphire Blue seems to stain cartridges. I recently received an order of 4 bottles of Diamine ink directly from Diamine which were sent in plastic bottles along with empty glass bottles for me to transfer them to upon receipt. The inks were Sapphire Blue, Red Dragon, Ancient Copper, and Wild Strawberry. I transferred the inks and cleaned the plastic bottles in case I might want to reuse them for something. I ran them through my ultrasonic with ammonia and Photo-Flo, rinsed them, and set them out to dry. It's no mystery which plastic bottle held the Sapphire Blue. It's not that pronounced, but it's a definite "tinge" of blue that the other bottles don't have.

 

OTOH, I want to note that just because something stains a PVC ("Pli-Glass") sac doesn't mean it will stain any other clear pen part. PVC sacs stain very easily. It's pretty much a foregone conclusion if you're an inkophile.

I know my id is "mhosea", but you can call me Mike. It's an old Unix thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How does the staining process (for pens) work by the way? I imagine it doesn't simply occur immediately on contact and that there are other factors at play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used Ancient Copper in my Vista, I can vouch for the crusting issue but no staining observed. I have also used Oxblood a fair bit, but never in a demonstrator - no staining of ink windows so far.

 

The only slight staining that I have seen from a Diamine ink is Prussian Blue on the barrel of a Pilot Custom 92 clear demo. It;s only really noticeable when the piston is moved out of the full/closed position and you can see a slight change in the plastic at the furthermost point that the ink would have made contact with the barrel compared to the completely clear untouched by ink part.

For small creatures such as we the vastness is bearable only through love. -Carl Sagan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find Ochre hard to clean and prone to staining. Don't leave it in a pen to long and clean it promptly. Great color and worth the extra attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33554
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26727
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...