Pen Flush: Buy Or Make Your Own?

[Karmachanic]

I use a solution of H₂O for my pen flush.

[txomsy]

Diluted 100:0 ?

[Karmachanic]

Full strength; no messing around. Get it done right the first time.

[rebcabin]

No.

 

What they are worried is that in the presence of water and sunlight ebonite surface oxidises and changes colour. That is what they mean by the finish: humidity will slowly change its deep black to grey, an olive green and later a matte brown colour, thus spoiling the brilliant black finish.

 

 

ty for the clarity

[Ron Z]

I use a solution of H₂O for my pen flush.

 

There are MANY cases where plain water is simply not enough to clean a pen well. Some kind of solution is needed to get break down the schmutz. I also find that using the diluted ammonia/Dawn solution followed by a clear rinse cleans the pen much better, and have fewer problems getting a pen to start when they're pulled out of the pen case and filled after a period of storage

[Karmachanic]

 

There are MANY cases where plain water is simply not enough to clean a pen well. Some kind of solution is needed to get break down the schmutz. I also find that using the diluted ammonia/Dawn solution followed by a clear rinse cleans the pen much better, and have fewer problems getting a pen to start when they're pulled out of the pen case and filled after a period of storage

 

Thank you Ron. I have no experience trying to clean long neglected pens.

[eharriett]

I regularly use a dawn/amonia solution. It is quite helpful (and cheap, too. A lot cheaper than pen flush).

 

Taking RonZ's suggestion a couple weeks ago, I also invested in a bottle of Rapidoeaze, which works so well it now is part of my regular restoration as I continue to learn how now to break a pen. It adds a few days, but I'm in no hurry. Assuming there's no need to remove the nib/feed, after the section comes out, I put the section + nib in an ink vial filled with the stuff. Then .... I wait. I wait until it turns completely black, which it inevitably does -- keep in mind, this is after a number of days in a water/dawn soap mix that has been sitting. It stays there until no more ink comes out. Then whatever ink is left in it, comes out with the Rapidoease. It ALWAYS seems to turn black, given enough time. If I refill, it doesn't turn black again, so I'm usually done. Very pleased with the results.

[Bibliophage]

 

There are MANY cases where plain water is simply not enough to clean a pen well. Some kind of solution is needed to get break down the schmutz. I also find that using the diluted ammonia/Dawn solution followed by a clear rinse cleans the pen much better, and have fewer problems getting a pen to start when they're pulled out of the pen case and filled after a period of storage

This!

[LWJ2]

No.

 

What they are worried is that in the presence of water and sunlight ebonite surface oxidises and changes colour. That is what they mean by the finish: humidity will slowly change its deep black to grey, an olive green and later a matte brown colour, thus spoiling the brilliant black finish.

 

That will affect surfaces exposed to humidity, which usually means outer surfaces. The section, being inside the cap and hidden from sunlight will keep black and you'd end up with a multicolour surface, which may look less attractive (within the limits of subjectivity, obviously).

 

For that reason you shouldn't soak it. If you need to, then you should dry it with a clean cloth immediately to reduce the chances of oxidation. The inner parts of the pen (in contact with water-based ink) should, being inside, not be a concern because they very rarely will see the light of day.

 

Your ebonite pen will still be robust, but the sunlight-exposed surface colour will be spoiled.

 

Think of your dad/grandad's old pipes; greyish olive coloured stems. They're old ebonite, all you can do to remove it is polish it off on a wheel with very fine grit. The better ebonites (frequently German-made) appear to oxidise at a slower rate. Frequent cleaning with a soft cloth takes it off before it's obnoxiously obvious. That said, I've no clue at all what frequent cleaning with a soft cloth would do to something like an urushi or maki-i [sp?] pen.

 

And if you decide to re-hab an old pipe, use cheap vodka and pipe cleaners on the stems to remove old tobacco tar. Any consumable alcohol will work, I use rum or brandy on a final pass, leaves a nice scent.

 

Cheers from rural Virginia!

[pajaro]

Regarding oxidation, a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser or facsimile by another company often gets the oxidation off of my pipe stems.