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Cleaning A Platignum Aerometric Filer That Wants To Rust

platignum aerometric rust

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#1 vossad01

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Posted 29 January 2014 - 23:50

I have been fortunate enough to get a "Platignum Italic Set" rather cheap from local used goods store.  The unfortunate part is that the pen was stored inked.

 

I have been soaking it and the dirty nibs in water [with soap], but there is still dried ink in the filler (sac?).  It is not just that it is stained, there are opaque spots where I believe there to be dried ink while the rest is fairly clear.  It is only been soaking a day, but I have noticed that the metal is wanting to rust.

 

What is my best course of action?

 

Is it just a matter of filling it and having it soak not immersed, or is there something else I should be trying at this point?

 

Thanks!



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#2 Tenkai

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Posted 31 January 2014 - 08:44

I have that set (it's the one for students calligraphy right?).

Correct me if I am wrong, but it uses international cartridges. You might consider getting a replacement converter. I got an international converter at an art store for manuscript calligraphy pens for a dollar.

Though not to discourage you, that was my first set of fountain pen and nibs. The build quality and poor nib performance almost made me decide that fountain pens aren't meant for human hands.

My version of the guide for the Pilot Varsity Nib transplantation to the Platinum Preppy

DIY Retractable Fountain Pen (Couldn't get it to work, now refilling Schmidt 888 M refills with FP inks in a Pilot G2 Limited, the ceramic roller tip is as smooth as a Firm FP steel nib, Poor Man's VP I guess)


#3 vossad01

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Posted 01 February 2014 - 00:22

Thanks Tenkai, this one uses happens to be an aerometric (see below, for picture of set), though this experience is certainly making me question getting more pens of that design.  Hopefully it writes okay.  Thankfully I already have a couple good writers so I won't be too bad off if these are not good.
 
DSCF2356.jpg
 

I did make some progress.  After there were rust lines I could tell the metal band did not extent into the section so it looked removable.  I stuck a fingernail into the crack where the band met as it wraps around, which loosened it enough it slid off easily.  Being able to directly manipulate the sac has helped because the mechanical action broke some of it up.  I was then able to soak it submersed again.  Adding ammonia has seemed to help with ink too.

 

What is left are chunks which I am not even convinced are water soluble at this point (from the ones that have come out is there a way to test this?).  I will keep soaking with ammonia and hopefully they break down.  I was able to fish a few out using a needle and syringe though I was a bit concerned about doing that.

 

DSCF2362.jpg

The black are chunks, if you look in the end you can see them sticking off the walls.



#4 Tenkai

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Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:44

I think you might want to soak overnight in ammonia then using a syringe to flush the insides. Not too sure what is the quality of the stainless steel. Might cause more rust later on ^^"

To remove rust, you could try WD-40. It's a kind of oil that I use to remove rust from metals at home. Could get it from a hardware store. But watch out for plastics, rubber and stuff, might damage due to it's oily nature.

My version of the guide for the Pilot Varsity Nib transplantation to the Platinum Preppy

DIY Retractable Fountain Pen (Couldn't get it to work, now refilling Schmidt 888 M refills with FP inks in a Pilot G2 Limited, the ceramic roller tip is as smooth as a Firm FP steel nib, Poor Man's VP I guess)


#5 vossad01

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 01:50

Its Clean!
 
DSCF2363.jpg
 
Final solution was to inject some rubbing alcohol in to break down the black that was left.  I could see it stuck to the sides but it was sticky and while I could spread it around it would not come out so I tried the alcohol.  I know it is not a recommended method, but I was at the point where it was that or ignore it, and given what was spent on the pen I was willing to risk it.  With the alcohol the black would come loose from the sides.  I used a paper click to fish it out then.
 
I question whether some of the nibs units still have some stuff stuck in them, but I will see how they perform before I try anything more with them.  Here is a very short writing sample just from dipping the nibs.  For some reason this set has two B2s rather than a B and a B2.
 
DSCF2365.jpg

 

Oh, and thanks for the comments about the rust, I hadn't been considering needing to treat that.   I took some 00 steel wool and buffed it, which seemed to take care of it.


Edited by vossad01, 05 February 2014 - 01:51.






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: platignum, aerometric, rust



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