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New To Vintage Pelikan 400

400 500 400nn 500nn suggestion repair

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13 replies to this topic

#1 lokhiny2601

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:36

Hi everyone !
Recently, I've got a nice 500 from a antique shop.But when I tried to knock the piston unit,I've ruined the barrel.Now I will buy a 400nn brown tortoise parts to replace my 500.
Now I have two solutions here
1. Knock the 400nn piston unit out and replace with the 500 piston knob (is it compatible?)
2. Just change the cap and become a 500nn
Any another better methods?
Thanks

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#2 lokhiny2601

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:42

The ruined barrel and I suppose the piston unit was glued with crazy glue or aa glue
But luckily I still can remove the end piston knob

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Edited by lokhiny2601, 11 January 2014 - 09:43.


#3 daffie

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:04

What did you ruïn to the barrel?

I only see a barrel and a loose piston knob...



#4 lokhiny2601

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:46

As you can see the barrel is not straight anymore,because I force it too much on the barrel when I knocking out the piston unit.Also the grip is....



#5 daffie

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:53

OK, yes, now I see the barrel isn't straight.

 

I hope you can get the rest of the filling system out... I can't imagine there is glue in it, maybe dried ink, what can make it difficult to knock the system out. It maybe will help to let the barrel in water for a couple of hours and then try again to knock it out.

 

I think it will be a little difficult to find another barrel for it, but you never know.

 

Regards,

daffie



#6 lokhiny2601

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 11:02

Thanks for your advice but I've putted in a water for up to 6 hours before and it have not move for a little bit

I 've brought a 400nn brown tortoise barrel and cap parts :)  and waiting for it on the way.

I am thinking which methods are better,any Ideas?



#7 daffie

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 11:26

A brown tortoise 400NN barrel will fit, but the barrel markings aren't correct for the pen, because it will not say '500' on it as it should.

 

Regards,

daffie



#8 lokhiny2601

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:57

the barrel have no any imprints :D



#9 daffie

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 13:02

the barrel have no any imprints :D

That's correct, but a Pelikan 500 should have the 500-imprint.

I mean that it is clear that your 'homemade'-pen is a marriage.

But it possibly is the only solution to keep this pen alive...



#10 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 13:14

Why take apart such a pen? :wacko: :(

 

I have a 500, the tortoise of mine is a much lighter shade, like my 400N....both bought the same day, than my later M400. (I'd never even dreamed of getting a 500 until one showed up on German Ebay when money was burning a hole in my pocket.)

I wouldn't dream of taking apart any of my Pelikans.......then I'd have to have a lot of experience with lesser piston pens.

Because of the rarity of a 500 ('51-54)-400N ('55), I'd send it in to a pro.

 

There is a guy who puts different custom binde in Pelikan pens. Perhaps he can put your binde in another pen body. Then you would at least still have the original shade of tortoise.

Sorry I don't remember who he is. Some one will be able to help you that in that direction.

 

I can not understand why some folks got to take apart their Pelikans like they were Twsbis. Pelikans are not made to be taken apart as part of cleaning.

Yes, I read you couldn't get the piston to move....such a rare pen, I'd sent to Marshal or Oldfield or Twiddel in England.

 

In fact Rick thinks putting silicon grease in it every two or three years is enough. Rick Propas is the Pelikan Guru here.

Maybe he'd got a spare 500 barrel.


Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 11 January 2014 - 13:20.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 


#11 BMG

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 17:53

@Bo Bo – are you referring to Chris Burton? He does make custom bindes for vintage and current pens, but wouldn't the barrel have to be straight?

 

To the OP: sorry to learn of this mishap! I would echo Bo Bo and suggest you get in touch with Rick P. to see about getting a new 500 barrel. If that's a no-go, well, I don't know what to say. Perhaps your idea of replacing it with a 400 barrel is the easiest solution if the goal is to have a nice user.


Écrire c’est tenter de savoir ce qu’on écrirait si on écrivait. – M. Duras

#12 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 11 January 2014 - 23:11

Yep, Chris might be able to save the binde that is in the barrel and put it in another barrel then the lighter tortoise of the 400-400N would keep the pen looking original.

 

IMO the lighter tortoise blends better with the rolled gold cap....just changed caps on my '90's 400 Tortoise, and the lighter tortoise IMO blends easier with the gold cap....the darker tortoise is dull under the gold cap...looks fine under the almost black 'brown' cap it normally has.

 

Modern tortoise is better than green stripped. :unsure:


German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 


#13 Rick Propas

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 12:46

Just for future reference, if anyone wants to replace the seal, don't "knock" the filler out. Soak it in water and (pure) ammonia for as long as it takes for you to be able to pull the filler out by the knob. If that doesn't work a small degree of heat can be used, but as much as heat is the repairer's friend it can quickly destroy a pen and injure the person holding the pen.

Better yet have someone *qualified* to do so repair the pen. I recommend Ron Zorn.

Let's not destroy any more pens than we have to and especially not 500s.

#14 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 13:09

"""Let's not destroy any more pens than we have to and especially not 500s."""

 

+1000

 

Last month I got a 500, a pen I never even looked at, in it was so far over budget.

 

I am really impressed with how the lighter tortoise mellows with the gold. The nib is great too; a 'flexi' OBB, even if not marked at all.

 

That is the third OBB I have with some flex, one is semi-flex 15 degree and the other 30 degree grind. Both of them are Osmia or Osmia-Faber-Castell's. In that my other three Pelikans are 15 degree grinds, it took me a while to realize that great stubbish look came from the 500 was a 30 degree grind.

 

And the old fashioned script on the nib is real neat too. It is a bit different than my 100N that I somgi'ed....again a pen I never expected to own.

 

Thanks Rick, for the tip of how to pull a filler out.


Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 12 January 2014 - 13:10.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: 400, 500, 400nn, 500nn, suggestion, repair



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