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How Common Is A Cracked Snorkel Barrel?

snorkel barrel crack

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16 replies to this topic

#1 loudkenny

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 20:33

I just restored my first Snorkel last night, a black Valiant? with a white dot and a fine open nib.

 

After putting in a new sac and both seals, I couldn't get the pen to fill very much at all. I eventually found out my original barrel had a

long crack in it near the section.

 

I replaced the black barrel with a burgundy one, and the pen now works great.

 

Is barrel cracking common in Snorkels? Can you fix this issue yourself, or is it easier just to get a new barrel?

 

PS. (Warning - wanton props) Thank you Grandmia for the great Snorkel video... and Brian Anderson's shop for the resac kit :)

 

Thank you,

ken


Edited by loudkenny, 11 December 2013 - 20:36.


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#2 josephchow42

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 20:44

congrats!


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#3 Steveg

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 01:17

I have a snorkel that was cracked at the top of the barrel when I received it. I successfully repaired the crack, though it does still show.

#4 Ron Z

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 01:47

It's common enough that I check for a cracked barrel when I estimate repair costs on snorkels and touchdowns.  The blind cap end is the more common place to find one because owners often tilt the TD tube off to one side when filling the pen.  It can be solvent welded to repair the crack.


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#5 pajaro

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 02:40

Provided the previous owner hasn't tried to superglue it without success, leaving a mess.


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#6 loudkenny

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 03:29

I was lucky, as the crack was never glued.

 

The crack is somewhere about 3/8" long and runs down the side of the barrel, starting about 1/4" from the cap thread. You can barely see it on the outside of the barrel. I finally found it by wetting the side of the pen with soapy water and working the pump.

 

Is it even worth getting the barrel fixed, or should I just get a new one?

 

ken



#7 Indy_Pen_Dance

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Posted 12 December 2013 - 15:11

Of course these are worth getting fixed, some of my best friends are snorkels. Yours has the crack on the opposite end of where it is most common. If the crack goes through the threads, that is a more tedious repair but is possible.

#8 BigWill

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Posted 10 February 2014 - 01:28

It's common enough that I check for a cracked barrel when I estimate repair costs on snorkels and touchdowns.  The blind cap end is the more common place to find one because owners often tilt the TD tube off to one side when filling the pen.  It can be solvent welded to repair the crack.

 

What solvent do you use to weld the crack in snorkel barrel? It sounds like super glue is a poor choice.



#9 parkerdpetesron

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Posted 12 February 2014 - 21:42

I have a similar crack in my Valiant, however my pen works fine. I'll be watching for a way to repair it!



#10 Ron Z

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Posted 13 February 2014 - 15:17

Don't use silicone, and don't use an adhesive.  You're going to look for a solvent that works with styrene.  I don't know if Tenax is still on the market, but it worked, and a similar solvent weld should work just as well.  The initial bond is quite strong, but you need to give it 24 hours or more for the plastic to harden enough for the repaired area to blend properly with the rest of the barrel.  Wait a bit, and the repair can be nearly invisible, if not totally invisible when finished.  Rush it and you can have a mess.


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#11 parkerdpetesron

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Posted 13 February 2014 - 20:20

Hey Ron are you talking about Liquid Polystyrene Cement like this?

http://www.ebay.com/...8259835?lpid=82



#12 qpens

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 20:56

I agree with Ron, 100%.  Unfortunately, a cracked barrel is the last thing that I finally discover when having difficulty getting a Snorkel to fill properly...after replacing all of the rubber and cleaning the "working parts" :^ )

 

I've used Tenax  and my bottle has lasted me for many years...and it is still available. 

 

http://www.amazon.co...R/dp/B00EMXTBG0

 

Michael Quitt

www.charmcitypens.com


Michael Quitt
www.charmcitypens.com

#13 Ron Z

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 23:45

Hey Ron are you talking about Liquid Polystyrene Cement like this?

http://www.ebay.com/...8259835?lpid=82

 

I normally look for something that contains methylene chloride.  This does not, but it does contain M.E.K.  You'll find the MSDS here.


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#14 BamaPen

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 18:09

Hey Ron,

 

I found a 1946 date code dove grey Parker 51 vacumatic in a parts box.  Looks like all the pieces are there, but I see now why it wasn't repaired...a crack in the barrel at the filler end.  The crack is tight, but runs about 3/8 inch down the barrel.

 

Is there a solvent that will work to repair this crack?

 

John H.



#15 Garageboy

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 14:17

Parker 51 is not polystyrene, so the methods for the Snorkel wont work

I'm not sure what the proper solvent is



#16 Ron Z

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Posted 11 March 2014 - 14:28

Parker 51 is not polystyrene, so the methods for the Snorkel wont work

I'm not sure what the proper solvent is

But the same solvent works for both.


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#17 tmenyc

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Posted 12 March 2014 - 12:53

Testors model cement is also slower and thicker than Tenax.  Tenax, if applied carefully, will fill a crack by capillary action and not show.  Getting Testors to flow easily and to not be messy is a challenge.  I use both in my other hobby of model car building, but wouldn't use Testors for a fine job or one that would show.  Ambroid also works very well on polystyrene, is my normal solvent of choice.  

 

Tim







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