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Redwood Burl Pen


InvisibleMan

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http://www.pensbylyleross.com/1/post/2013/10/richland-4-redwood-burl-fountain-pen.html

 

Lots of woodwork going on around here lately it seems. Here is my latest - redwood burl fountain pen that I just finally got a chance to finish up last night. This is a large sized Richland model, but carries a small #5 EF JoWo nib. Burl woods can be pretty touchy, but the results are definitely worth the effort in the end.

 

Questions/Comments/Critiques welcome as always. Thanks for looking :)

 

http://www.pensbylyleross.com/uploads/1/2/6/0/12608908/4595596_orig.jpg?151 http://www.pensbylyleross.com/uploads/1/2/6/0/12608908/9572977_orig.jpg

 

http://www.pensbylyleross.com/uploads/1/2/6/0/12608908/1789923_orig.jpg

 

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That's very pretty.

-eo

Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow.

The important thing is not to stop questioning. --Albert Einstein

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Ooooh, pretty!

 

I think it would be nifty if the section were wood, too. I have no idea how hard that would be to do, or if a wood section would get ink-stained and ugly really fast.

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Wooden sections are a bit more difficult because of how tiny the plastic insert would need to be - BUT the problem comes with repeated dunkings in ink staining and soaking into the wood - eventually ruining it. it can be done. I did it once, and I've seen it done, and a couple of people and one or two pen companies do it.

Stipula did an olive wood pen with a clear sheath around the wooden part of the section so the wood was totally enclosed and protected from ink.

Another one, Gimena, used metal to separate the nib unit from the wood.

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/252127-four-wooden-beauties-compared-part-2/

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Ooooh, pretty!

 

I think it would be nifty if the section were wood, too. I have no idea how hard that would be to do, or if a wood section would get ink-stained and ugly really fast.

 

A wood section would be doable I think, especially on this pen where the section is so thick compared to the housing threads. The risk is having any wood exposed to ink on the inside, so sealing it up would be important, and that's more difficult with so little room to work.

 

This finish is sort of a hard acrylic when it dries, so I wouldn't think ink staining would be a problem. It may be, though, with other finishes.

 

edit: Heh, Shawn beat me. At least we pretty much said the same thing :)

Edited by InvisibleMan
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Yes, I LOVE what Ginema did with their section. I wasn't sure how much the physical nature of the ebony made it work there. (I'm assuming it's a dense-grained hardwood, and that something like, say, pine wouldn't work well at all. The little I know about wood is from an "ooh, that's pretty" standpoint, instead of any actual useful physical characteristics.) That also looks pretty complicated, though. =/

 

I don't like the clear sheath Stipula used on their pen; I'd rather it just be plastic or rubber. :)

 

ETA: I hadn't thought about the ink inside the pen affecting the section because, yeah, I don't make pens and it just wasn't there in my head. D'oh. Ask questions, learn things. :D

Edited by nekosan
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Thanks everybody!

 

I have to admit, I wasn't sure what the small nib would look like in this pen when the customer ordered it, but it actually looks and feels really good to me. Certainly a preference item, but I ended up liking it myself.

 

I'll smooth the nib and put ink to paper for the first time tonight when I get it ready to ship. I've been letting it sit so the finish can completely cure and "off gas" before packing up for its trip.

 

Lyle

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