Clear Tape On The Cap Of My New Baby - Help!

[JesterKat]

My search-fu is either on the fritz or no-one has asked this before

I've got a new baby - a GORGEOUS copper toaster-top transitional. There seems to be only one problem, some idjit put a complete circle of very clear tape around the cap and managed to put it so that it's completely under the clip, ending about where the clip touches the cap. It appears to have been there quite some time, as gentle pushing with one of my nearly non-existent fingernails doesn't faze it at all. I think someone polished it with the pen as you wouldn't know it was there at all except a very fine line on the edges of the tape that is perceivable to the finger and in a very strong light.

Since almost anyone is more experienced than I am (I'm still trying to coax the section out of my first pen bought as a learning project), does anyone have any experience with this problem? My first thought was to soak the pen cap longer than I soak the rest of the pen. I know I don't want to use any of the usual tricks for removing tape and stickers as I think that most of those would damage the celluloid. I know ammonia in small amounts is OK, but what else might work. I know that acetone and alcohol are right out, and I assume that dilute white vinegar is also right out, also since it is close to alcohols chemically.

Photos in a few because I'm having a problem figuring out my new-to-me, complicated camera. IF I managed to get one of 56 that shows it right.

Thanks!

Katie

[JesterKat]

 

I hope that these pics show what I'm trying to show - new camera and new editing software. Please excuse the clumsy arrows.

[Sasha Royale]

What people do to their fountain pens, always astounds me.

I suspect a careful "slitting" of the take, with razor, followed by a solvent, might be the solution.

Let's wait for some of the Esterbrook enthusiasts, who know more about the compatibility of

solvents and the pen material.

 

Good luck.

[Hobiwan]

Can't see from the pictures, but look real close and see if you can find the seam or ends of the tape. Not that it will peel back, but it would verify that it's tape and not something else.

 

I myself would not take a razor to the tape, but that's because my hands are not (have never been) steady enough to prevent slitting the pen as well. A flat metal instrument, such as the handle part of a nail file might help in working it off the plastic without scratching the plastic itself.

 

But I'd first start by soaking the cap in warm soapy water for quite a while. A day or two at least. It won't hurt the pen, and should loosen the glue on the tape. Then, try to work it loose carefiully with a flat metal thingy that has a rounded bevelled edge (not perfectly squared off).

 

But if it's tape, the soaking in the hot soapy water should work it loose enough for you to work the main stuff off. You'll then (if all follows my experience), spend the most time cleaning off the glue residue.

 

Hope this helps. Good Luck recovering a beautiful piece.

[JesterKat]

Yes, I found the end, but it doesn't respond to my poor, non-existent fingernails. Honestly, it feels like it has been there a long, long time, you can barely see or feel the end of the tape.

I have set it to soak with a couple of others that need cleaning. I'll check on it much later.

Thanks!
Katie

[watch_art]

So do the soak - that's a really good idea - then get a bit of wd 40 on a paper towel or sock and rub off the glue residue - then wash it off clean to get that funky wd junk off.

 

That is if the wd won't hurt the plastic. Not sure on that. If it were me I'd do it - but I'm slightly bent/crazy.

[OcalaFlGuy]

Before I'd use the WD40 I'd try some regular old fashioned liquid cigarette lighter fluid if you have it.

 

That's naphtha, it won't hurt Estie plastic.

 

I honestly don't think a short exposure of Estie plastic to WD40 followed by the good rinse would harm Estie

plastic but I am pretty sure the pros would tell you otherwise.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[JesterKat]

Ooooh, I'll have to check the lighter fluid we have to see if it's the old type. Hubby thought it was benzine, but can't find it 'cause he took it to his workshop to clean something off an antique tool.

The WD 40 is easy, I have cans of it everywhere. I have a toasted pen I got in an auction lot that probably has enough good finish left to be a test subject.

You folks are such an education!

Now to get back to trying to get the section off my first project - I'm scared to go too fast, you've schooled me maybe too well.

Thanks!
Katie

[tmenyc]

you can also use Goo-Gone...it's very similar to WD40, will soak right through the tape and loosen it. I have used it many times to get all kinds of stuff off Esterbrooks.

[FarmBoy]

Go with Bruce and use lighter fluid.

 

FB

[Lorna Reed]

For most sticky-tape situations I use Sticky-Stuff Remover, which I think is made from orange oil. Smells like oranges anyway. But don't know if it would be safe for Estie plastic.

I'm just wondering why the tape was put on in the first place. Hope you don't find that there is a crack in the cap when you finally get the tape off.

[OcalaFlGuy]

 

I'm just wondering why the tape was put on in the first place. Hope you don't find that there is a crack in the cap when you finally get the tape off.

 

I had exactly the same thought. I didn't mention it because I didn't want to jinx Katie.

 

But, now that Lorna's jinxed her and not me I'll say I thought the same thing too.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[JesterKat]

I soaked it over night then some more on Sunday, swapping out water to keep it warmish hoping that would help after the over night soak didn't. It's definitely softer (I can actually feel the edges now), but still not coming off so lighter fluid will be my next try. Looking at either side of the edges and at the area underneath with a loupe, I don't see any sign of cracking. I'm taking this slowly so that I don't screw up by being too impatient. I did get the section to come out of the barrel last night, and I've gotten the borked sac out of it - it was all sticky and nasty on the outside so I soaked the barrel for a little while to make sure the insides were properly clean, now. Now I get to try my first re-sac - the one I bought for "practice" still won't come apart

Thanks, y'all!

[JesterKat]

I want to thank all of you again, my baby (Copper toaster-top transitional) now has a new J-bar, a new sac, and is nice and clean inside and now has absolutely NO tape anywhere. Whoever owned her before, shined the outside up really nice, but the inside was a horrible, sticky mess. Thanks to all the great tutorials and repair info here, she'll be her old self tomorrow. I'm really proud of myself - I was patient and got my first 2 re-sacs done and knew enough to recognize that both J-bars were just waiting to disintegrate into little piles of rust. Now I just have to re-read all the polishing info again so that I can get the second pen pretty on the outside, too, but that's why I bought that one, for the practice.

Thanks, everyone!

Katie

Edited July 28, 2013 by JesterKat

[PaFitch]

Congratulations--fixing Esterbrooks is about as much fun as using them.

[pajaro]

I agree that there is some fun in fixing Esterbrooks. There are some interesting challenges, like getting the section out of the barrel, and what tactics you employ to do it. Best of all is that you will be successful most of the time with Esterbrooks, where fixing a lot of other pens results in more spares for the junk drawer.

[HDRoot]

Naphtha is good. Ketone is even better. Dries faster and no residue whatsoever. Gentle but effective. You can get a small amount for a large price from vendors who sell book repair supplies. You can get a large amount for a small price from your local art store. It is sold as Bestine Solvent and Thinner. Artists use it for thinning rubber cement. I use it for many household purposes, esp when the oils and additives in WD40 and Goo-Gon will cause damage of their own.

[pajaro]

Aren't naptha and ketone toxic?

[FarmBoy]

Naphtha is good. Ketone is even better. Dries faster and no residue whatsoever. Gentle but effective. You can get a small amount for a large price from vendors who sell book repair supplies. You can get a large amount for a small price from your local art store. It is sold as Bestine Solvent and Thinner. Artists use it for thinning rubber cement. I use it for many household purposes, esp when the oils and additives in WD40 and Goo-Gon will cause damage of their own.

By ketone I suspect you mean acetone or MEK. If you do, don't use it to clean pens, it does work well for solvent welding and dissolving most Esterbrook plastics but it is not a good pen cleaner.

[JesterKat]

IF I remember my chemistry correctly (and that's a big if!) acetone is A ketone, IIRC the simplest ketone. That is about all I remember though. I've learned not to put acetone near anything that I don't want completely dissolved - I've had bad experiences with the stuff. Little things like don't accidentally spill nail polish remover on or near your really cheap hairdryer and always remember to take off all jewelry (real or costume) before going anywhere near the bottle. This is why the bottle lives in the back of a closet inside a zippered baggie so you have to think before using. (Wipe the bottle well before putting in the baggie, it will damage that too.)

I think I need to brush up on my chemistry...

Katie